Fault code P0340

[T.P.]

Hi guys,

Sypder RT 2016

I just have the same issue. P0340. It seems to run fine.

Two questions please: a) does it make sense to take the panels off to see whether it is just dirty? b) can I still drive it to my dealer who is about 50 miles away? It is not under warranty.

Thanks
Stef.

The new BRP part # is 420664046, Just order one and put it in yourself
T.P.

 

[Bfromla]

Long way to go in limp mode:helpsmilie::sour: not really advisable, would definitely confirm dealer has & holding part for you FIRSTopcorn:

 

[GrandpaPete]

I had the same problem on my 2014 RTL in Montana a few years back. I could get it to run for maybe a 1/2 mile or 2 and then POOF. Same Code. Except, mine would roll over but never fire. Can your dealer order it or check elsewhere for inventory. Good Luck. I hope it makes it to the dealer/garage for assistance. GrandpaPete

 

[SKME]

Is it worthwhile trying to clean the camshaft position sensor?

 

[BertRemington]

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...t-code-P0340&p=1638317&viewfull=1#post1638317

The BRP CPS is actually quite common. Search for Bosch 0 261 210 159 and Rotax 966570

Circumstances have me with a spare CPS from a 2015 RT (basic) SM6 unknown mileage. Any interest if I put it up for sale?

 

[BryanSD]

Hi guys,

Sypder RT 2016

I just have the same issue. P0340. It seems to run fine.

Two questions please: a) does it make sense to take the panels off to see whether it is just dirty? b) can I still drive it to my dealer who is about 50 miles away? It is not under warranty.

Thanks
Stef.

In my case, the dealer had a three week wait before he could even look at my Spyder. The only reason I waited and took it in was because it was still under (extended) warranty. My understanding is that it's not too difficult to replace yourself. If you do take it to the dealer, I'd make sure they have the part on hand and if they don't...it might be worth you buying the part ahead of time (for you to decide to do it yourself or take it in the dealer). I've heard people drive for quite a few miles to the dealer with only this error code showing up. However, if any type of backfiring goes on...I really wouldn't ride it further until the part is replaced.

 

[SKME]

Apologies for asking this again:

I can ask BCAA to get my bike to the dealer for me or drive about 20 miles to get it there myself.

Are there chances that the bike “dies” on me on the route or is worst case scenario that I have to go slowly? Also can I make things worse?

Dealer has one in stock.

Thanks for your advice

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Apologies for asking this again:

I can ask BCAA to get my bike to the dealer for me or drive about 20 miles to get it there myself.

Are there chances that the bike “dies” on me on the route or is worst case scenario that I have to go slowly? Also can I make things worse?

Dealer has one in stock.

Thanks for your advice

If your motor still runs, the CAPS hasn't completely failed...yet. There's some issue with the waveform coming from the sensor that the ECM doesn't like, thus it set the code. If it DOES completely fail on the way to the dealer, then yes, you will be stranded on the side of the road, because the ECM can't tell the cam position, and doesn't know which cylinder is which, in order to provide spark and fuel. Going slowly won't make a difference. And if it starts missing and backfiring on the way there, there's always the chance of making things worse.

If your BCAA membership covers the towing to the dealer for 20 miles, why not take advantage of that?

OR...use another vehicle to go to the dealer and buy the sensor, and come home and put it in yourself. It's plug and play. No BUDS required.

 

[SKME]

Thanks for your sound advice. Will contact BCAA.

 

[BertRemington]

Snowbelt -- in CAPS failure mode I believe the ECM uses the MAPTS to estimate the camshaft position, with appropriate limitations of course.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Snowbelt -- in CPS failure mode I believe the ECM uses the MAPTS to estimate the camshaft position, with appropriate limitations of course.

Remember, we’re talking about the cam position sensor here (CAPS), not the crank position sensor (CPSJ.

MAPTS. Manifold Absolute Temperature and Pressure Sensor. The 1330 has one MAPTS in the common intake manifold. So, even though the ECM could use the the crank position sensor to know that some cylinder is on an intake or compression stroke, without the cam position sensor, it can’t know which one. Thus, can’t know which fuel injector or plug to operate. With a total loss of signal, the motor doesn’t run.

It’s standard programming for the P0340 code to be set based on the voltage signal of the output pulses becoming outside of limits - too low, noisy output, or missing pulses - before complete loss of output altogether. Pretty much the way you would want it to be. Gives you a chance to get home.

 

[BertRemington]

The tight coupling of the MATPS to the intake tract allows MAP to serve as a low precision camshaft position sensor which, in combination with the crankshaft position sensor, can provide an adequate timing for Spyder limited performance operation. A low precision consistent timing signal is easier to refine into useable injection and ignition controls than inconsistent timing signals. Works for several models of one- and two-cylinder motorcycles.

 

[SKME]

I had the same problem on my 2014 RTL in Montana a few years back. I could get it to run for maybe a 1/2 mile or 2 and then POOF. Same Code. Except, mine would roll over but never fire. Can your dealer order it or check elsewhere for inventory. Good Luck. I hope it makes it to the dealer/garage for assistance. GrandpaPete

I talked to the Can-Am dealership here in Langley/ Canada. They said to ride it there. I cannot ruin my bike in any serious manner. The worst case is riding in limp mode. Just hoping it will not die on me as the wait for BCAA can be a rather long one when out on the road...

 

[ErFa]

Limp Mode P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor (Mode Preservation)

Hello. My wife's F3s 2017 went into Limp Mode (Mode Preservation in French) with Check Engine flashing. To confirm the code, you need to press the Mode-Set-Flasher center switches at the same time. For code P0340, it is the Camshaft Position Sensor having a problem. You need to get the right side panel off (I also disconnected the battery as a precaution). Here is what I used: Torx T20 Screwdriver for side panel, and a Torx T27 L shaped Allen key type for the only screw maintaining the sensor in place. As another member suggested, I placed a rag under the sensor while unscrewing it to avoid losing the screw. It is a tight place. You need the part #420664046 ($94 Canadian at BRP dealer) which is the sensor including the O-ring (new part is all black, no stainless). If you need a screw in case you lose the one installed, it is #420440162 (like $4). Leave the sensor connected to the wire when removing/installing. The worst part was the installation, where it took me probably 30 min just to do the first 1/2 turn of the screw done with my hands so it would stay in place and I could finish it with the L shaped tool. If you're lucky, the whole thing from panel removal to reinstalled could be less than 15 min. I put 3 pictures that might hopefully help you finding the part on the motor. Started it, Limp Mode went off, but still had the Error Code P0340 locked in. Stopped it a bit, restarted, and pushed the 3 switches mentioned above, No Error Code displayed.....YA!!! Good luck

 

[T.P.]

Great Job!! I have done 2 of these repairs, Not fun to do because of the boss schielding the single screw/bolt limiting your wrench stroke. :2thumbs:

T.P.