FAQs - Frequently Asked Questions

[Gwolf]

This thread has active links to Can Am help videos and previous posts on the Spyderlovers Forum dealing with questions or problems which come up frequently. Click on a link and jump to your answer, or at least more information than you had before.

Click the spoiler buttons to open the subject. Click again to close the subject.

Spoiler: #1- Preemptive Strikes

(1) The cable controlled latches on the seat & frunk.

Use some of the methods in spoiler #3 to put emergency latch release cables on all the seat and frunk latches.

(2) The oil drain plugs.The same preemptive strike recommendation goes for them. The drain plugs are in a bad place to begin with. They are upside down and unless you have been turning wrenches for several decades, you will have to stop and think about which way loosens or tightens. Next problem is the plugs have tiny little Allen hex or Torx bits that go in the OEM plugs to turn them, The under side of the engine has a lot of plastic covers in the way, one of the plugs is on a slightly tilted alignment, the little Allen or Torx fittings in the plugs may be stuffed full or hard dried mud or hardened limerock dust so that the tools do not go in deep enough, and visibility under there is not good. The thing to do is before your very first oil change, order the after-market plug set with the large hex heads on them that a socket will fit on. Get the OEM plugs out and drop them in the coffee can where the other stuff you will never use again is stored.

Spoiler: #2-Motorcycle Laws and Licensing

★ Current Motorcycle Laws of All 50 States --LINK-- AMA Database
State by state laws of the USA that pertain to motorcycles provided and updated by the American Motorcyclist Association.
The AMA database is the most comprehensive and accurate place to find out about the motorcycle laws in every State. The website asks you to sign in, but you don't have to. All you have to do is, where you fill in the blanks on the main page, just put the State you are researching in the first blank space. All the State laws that apply to motorcycles will pop up for the State you selected just below where you are. It's easy to switch to a different State... put another State in the first blank space. You can filter for specific laws, but there's no need to do that unless you want to.
★ A general guide to the laws of Australia which pertain to motorcycles from the Australian Government Licencing Information Website.
-- LINK - Jump to website
★ Visitor & Tourist Guide to some of the laws and license requirements for Motorcycle Touring in Europe..- LINK - Jump to Website
As stated on the website, be sure to research further the specific laws of the countries you plan to visit.
★ Most other countries have specific laws and provisions for licencing of visitors and tourists. Research the specific countries you wish to visit . The American Embassy in those countries should be able to provide you up to date and accurate information.
★ Introduction and Information on the Motorcycle Safety Foundation - LINK - Go to MSF website

Spoiler: #3-Seat Latch Won't Release

Turn on the sound for your device in order to hear the video sound track.
★ (1) U-Tube Video - Putting emergency release cable on your seat latch-3.24 minutes-- Using Fishing leader

★ (2) U-Tube Video by Keith Johanson forum member how to put emergency release cables
on Frunk and/or Seat Release Latches- 9.36 minutes-- Using Bicycle brake cables

★ (3) U-Tube Video by Martin The Vlogger on removing Passenger Seat for Spyder RT 20+ - 3.04 minutes-- RT 20+ Pax Seat Removal

★ (4) U-Tube Video Spyder RSS seat removal and installation- 6.02 minutes-- Spyder RSS seat removal and installation

★ (5) U-Tube RT Seat Pin Adjustment- 4.54 minutes -- Adjusting RT seat lock pin

★ (6) Removing Seat when the key will not unlatch it. Spyderlovers Forum Thread link, with pictures of latch and many other links, during the entire removal of a seat when the key no longer unlocked it. -- Member Poasttown successfully removes a seat that is locked and key won't work.

★ (7) Another stuck seat that won't unlock thread -- Some useful suggestions on this thread

★ (8) More stuck seat threads -- https://www.spyderlovers.com/thread...a-key-any-hints-on-how-to-get-it-open.147576/

★ (9) And more stuck frunks and seats -- https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/frunk-and-seat-wont-open.121204/

★ (10) U-Tube Video - Martin The Vlogger gets in a LOCKED FRUNK without any tools. -6.58 minutes.
Best method yet! LINK TO Video- How To Do It!

Spoiler: #4- Parts, Shop, & Repair Manuals

★ Official BRP Operator's Guide Manuals for Spyder and Ryker, all years, all models. These are for digital downloading in PDF format.
This is the standard Operator Manual, containing all the specifications, explanation of controls, meaning of dash symbols, starting/stopping procedure, trouble shooting guide, and all the other information that is in the Operator Manuals. If you bought used and did not receive the manual, or just want a digital copy for the smart phone, download the correct year and model for your Spyder or Ryker. If you are considering buying a new or used Spyder or Ryker download the manual for it and get all the most important information for the one you are considering.
Click to go to BRP Download Website
International in several languages, current through 2026 models, contains instructions for adjusting dash for MPH or KPH, setting clock, modes, controls, and other information the owner should know. Random Sample Screen Shot of the Owner Guide Index;

★ Official BRP Spyder and Ryker Shop & Repair Manuals Website with manuals listed for most models and years.
--- BRP Manuals This link opens the BRB Spyder & Ryker Manuals website in another tab if you have tabbed browser.

★ On line Parts Manuals for Spyders, Rykers, and many other brands of recreational vehicles. You will need to fill in the information requested, such as model, year, and on or off road. When you have submitted enough information the website will open with illustrations and exploded view of most of the parts categories of your model. the illustrations have identification numbers on them or on arrows pointing to smaller parts that will cross reference to the factory part number for that part. It is international and lists the Japanese, European, North American, etc parts separately.
Parts Manuals

Spoiler: #5- Pictures Too Large

Threads that have information and hints on posting your pictures:
★ (A) Attach files and post Thumbnails on new forum software
Attaching Files and posting thumbnails
★ (B) Trouble up-loading Pictures / Making pictures smaller
Making pictures smaller
★ (C) About re-sizing pictures
About re-sizing pictures
★ (D) Finish up the job...... Properly insert the thumbnail and finishing up by Peter Aawen - step by step. Only one post.
Go to the post on finishing up the job

Spoiler: #6-Click Too Find VIN NUMBER

Nice Tutorial on finding the VIN number on 1330 Ace Spyders!
If you have tabbed browser, right click the link and open in a new tab.
No tabbed browser, just click the link..........
-- VIN Number Tutorial

 

[Gwolf]

Test area for the FAQ - nothing here is complete. This posting area is being used to test the equations
which make the FAQ operate correctly.

Spoiler: #1- Preemptive Strikes

★ (1) The cable controlled latches on the seat, frunk, or any other you may have. It is a recurring problem if you lock the keys in the frunk or need to get under the seat and the cables have stretched slightly, the ignition key will not open them. There is a whole other section dealing with how to get the seat to release or how to open the frunk when the key will not release the latching mechanism. There are certain things you can do before hand to make out of adjustment latch bolts, stretched cables and whatever else is preventing things that are supposed to open from doing it. If you go ahead before the problems occur and put emergency latch releases on them, then if the key does not work, you still have a way to get in easily. The "Seat Latch Won't Release" spoiler on this same FAQ has several links to U-Tube Videos and plenty of other suggestions to make getting in without the key working just another day in paradise. None of the fixes are expensive, probably less than $10 total if you don't already have what you need in your tackle box. The fix should not take more than an hour at most. Doing it now will be better than having to go through the problems of getting the stuck latch open, and then needing to fix it also. How to get a stuck latch to open is one of the most frequently asked questions on the forum.
★ (2) The oil drain and transmission drain plugs. The same preemptive strike recommendation goes for them. The drain plugs are in a bad place to begin with. They are upside down and unless you have been turning wrenches for several decades, you will have to stop and think about which way loosens or tightens. Next problem is the plugs have tiny little Allen hex or Torx bits that go in the OEM plugs to turn them, The under side of the engine has a lot of plastic covers in the way, one of the plugs is on a slightly tilted alignment, the little Allen or Torx fittings in the plugs may be stuffed full or hard dried mud or hardened limerock dust so that the tools do not go in deep enough, and visibility under there is not good when you are holding a small flashlight in your teeth and trying to get the plugs out. The thing to do is before your very first oil change, order the after-market plug set with the large hex heads on them that a socket will fit on. Get the OEM plugs out and drop them in the coffee can where the other stuff you will never use again is stored.
There is no correct torque setting for lubricated threads and as long as gravity keeps pulling the oil film or loose drops of oil left inside, the threads will continuously be lubricated by the remaining oil inside the engine and transmission. If you put a torque wrench on the plugs of any vehicle that has previously had oil in it, the threads are not going to be clean and dry, and you are not going to have any real idea how much torque you are putting on the plugs, because the lubricated plugs will not have any resistance much to turning tighter until they are far past the recommended torque settings.

There are some guidelines for torquing lubricated threads, but the guidelines are not specific, because the kind of lubricant on the threads; any wear on the treads; any grit in the oil dripping down; the temperature; the type of metals in contact; and a whole book full of other factors affect the torque setting. Most of the guess work of adjusting the torque for lubricated threads claim that you reduce the torque by 25% to 40% of the dry and clean recommended settings. So you are already in the territory of fairy dust and unicorn farts before you come up with some figure to use, and may possibly have moved completely out of the accurate range of your torque wrench before even beginning.

All you can do is run the plugs in hand tight and then turn them on down about a quarter of a turn, then STOP. If you even put a torque wrench on the plugs you will be over-torquing the plugs before getting anywhere near some imaginary torque value for lubricated threads.

The manuals can say whatever they want to say, the engineers can say whatever pops into their heads too. Nothing they say or do can stop gravity from putting oil on the threads and there is no such animal as a torque setting for lubricated threads. Remember those people who fitted the plugs with a tiny little Allen hole or Torx hole to tighten and loosen it instead of a hex head that a socket can fit on - they are the same people who came up with the imaginary torque setting for oil plugs! Snugging the plugs with a one hand, shorty ratchet on your socket is as far as you should ever go. The plugs hardly ever leak, and you don't hear about them backing out from vibration. Even if they are not pulled very tight when you put them back, soon as the engine gets warmed up, they will be getting tighter. There are ways of getting the stripped out oil plugs out, but that is a subject for a different tab. Hopefully you will change to hex head plugs before you have a stripped out OEM plug and won't need to read about getting the stripped out plugs loose.

 

[Little Blue]

Sounds like a great idea. I hope you are able to make it happen. I will be watching this Thread.
Thanks for your time.

 

[Gwolf]

Sounds like a great idea. I hope you are able to make it happen. I will be watching this Thread.
Thanks for your time.

It is already happening. I have several pages of links to repair videos, Shop Manuals, and Parts Manuals under the spoiler tabs. The FAQ is active now. You can open the spoiler tabs and browse if you like. Just added an on line parts manual which has exploded diagrams of different parts groups for most models and years.

 

[Little Blue]

Okay I will check it out in more detail.
Thanks for your time.

 

[Gwolf]

Recently added to Manuals Section is the PDF Operator Manuals links for all Spyder & Ryker through 2026 model. Digital copies of the full manuals for download with all the information contained in the hard copies.

Don't bother sifting through the smoke and mirrors of the new models advertising websites. Download and read a manual for the one you are interested in to see if it is up to all the advertising hype.

 

[Gwolf]

New content just added that everybody needs to see. U-Tube Video by Martin The Vlogger shows you clearly, exactly how to open the frunk without using any tools. It only takes him a few minutes and the frunk is open.

It is (10) U-Tube Video under the Seat Latch Spoiler Tab.

Everybody should watch how he does it, because you can do this on the side of the road or in a motel parking lot, just anywhere quickly and easily. It will work if you lock the keys in the frunk. It will work if the cable is stretched or the pin is out of adjustment. I think the only time it would not work is if the unlocking cable was broken on the frunk end.

 

[Gwolf]

Far as I can go with that page. It may not look like much text when it is closed up, but it was way too much.
When I added the last few sections it would no longer post and I got a message that said the forum was limited to 10,000 letters or spaces per page. Had to go back in and delete the least important information or none of it would post. I copied the whole thing and pasted it in my word processor, clicked on the word count and it was 12,000 words and spaces. Took out all the images, all the double spacing that was not essential and got it below the max so it would post. The only way I can go further is to use consecutive pages on the thread, but not today.
If I continue with the FAQ it will written on the word processor so I can keep up with word count. Should have done it on the first page, but did not even know the word count was restricted until I went over it.

Might have to start a new thread and reserve about the first 4 or 5 pages to get very much information on it.

Got several of the most frequent questions covered with that one and that was the main goal.