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Fan Blocking Plate Causes Heat Damage to RT

I guess I'll add my thoughts, too. I really find no more problem with the heat on either the GS/RS or the RT than I do on my conventional motorcycles. I also find the GS to be hotter to ride.

Proper riding gear is a must. You wouldn't ride a high-pipe Triumph in shorts, for fear you'd burn your leg. Why do it on a Spyder? It is your right to wear shorts and Crocs, but I think that should cancel your privilege to complain. My Mom always said "Self inflicted wounds don't count!"

Throwing rocks at BRP because they didn't design a machine that would not heat your foot when you added highway pegs, that they never included or intended, is unfair. If you make the mods, you alone are responsible for the consequences. Highway pegs are not factory accessories.

The RT gets rid of radiator heat much better than the RS. They dumped it further outward and farther forward. The inner panels are tighter, too, keeping less from coming back to the rider through the bodywork.

Putting your foot in front of the radiator outlet is like cutting a hole in the firewall of your car for more air. You have to expect that air to be hot.

That's my nickel's worth...value 2¢ these days due to inflation. :)
 
When your riding position is solely on the stock pegs and you are wearing appropriate foot wear for riding (namely boots) you shouldn't have to suffer "HOT FOOT".

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?41690-Hot-Air-Solution-for&highlight=solution
Not sure what is different, but I never have suffered "hot foot". Not even in 100+ temps on long trips. Perhaps it is riding positions, the build of the rider, tolerance, neuropathy, or something else all together. It would be nice to know the answer to this mystery, but I'm not sure we will ever really know. I hope you find a solution that works for you. nojoke
 
Question: Could some sort of "diverter" be added to the inner, trailing edge of the opening so as to redirect the heated air further outward and away from all of those tender feet? :dontknow:
 
I guess I'll add my thoughts, too. I really find no more problem with the heat on either the GS/RS or the RT than I do on my conventional motorcycles. I also find the GS to be hotter to ride.

Proper riding gear is a must. You wouldn't ride a high-pipe Triumph in shorts, for fear you'd burn your leg. Why do it on a Spyder? It is your right to wear shorts and Crocs, but I think that should cancel your privilege to complain. My Mom always said "Self inflicted wounds don't count!"

Throwing rocks at BRP because they didn't design a machine that would not heat your foot when you added highway pegs, that they never included or intended, is unfair. If you make the mods, you alone are responsible for the consequences. Highway pegs are not factory accessories.

The RT gets rid of radiator heat much better than the RS. They dumped it further outward and farther forward. The inner panels are tighter, too, keeping less from coming back to the rider through the bodywork.

Putting your foot in front of the radiator outlet is like cutting a hole in the firewall of your car for more air. You have to expect that air to be hot.

That's my nickel's worth...value 2¢ these days due to inflation. :)

Well said. I find many, not all Spyder riders have not been on many other bikes and just don`t understand bikes put off heat, you are for the most part on top of the motor, and you are outside where that heat goes. The thing we all like about the Spyder is the look and design and this does not leave many options for heat removal. BRP put the radiator as far back as they could to help us out but that heat still has to go somewhere. I have done many heat removal mods also but I think BRP did a respctable job on their first production model. Just my openion.
 
Anyway, the service manager told me I could do what I wanted, but he wanted to caution me that they had just resolved an issue with someone else's RT where the computer and associated wiring was damaged because of the heat being trapped under the Tupperware and not being vented because he installed a blocking plate. I don't know if he closed off both vent openings or only one of them. Apparently service dept spent close to 100 hours trouble shooting and sending parts back & forth to BRP for help, when they finally discovered severe heat damage to some of the wire harness and around the computer.

To the best of my knowledge, this is the first actual report on damage caused by limiting the heat escape from an RT. I asked if the fellow had removed the bottom plate and or opened up the "swoop area" to let the heat escape and was told that he did not.

Here's my issue. The OP title's the Thread "Fan Blocking Plate Causes Heat Damage to RT" and then he gives us both these statements (in red). Another piece of evidence we are missing on this issue is that if the other RT that had the heat issue made his own blocking plate, or purchased Harvey Clark's (aka Spyderpop's) LaBlock. I have ISCI's fancan, Spyderpop's LaBlock (and most of his products which he's tested), got my lower splash panels removed and the lower vent opened. So far, the heat on the right side has gone down around a 25-30% (I ride in shorts like Tito, maybe 20% of the time and in town, mostly going to Church meetings), and my :spyder2: has never been happier. Other Spyderpop customers are very happy with the LaBlock and (so far) haven't heard of any engine heat issues because of it...:chat:
 
I am wondering about the pulling of "non hot" air and the addition of "chemically cooled air" into a chamber, then forcing that flow to mix, then into a channel and be removed. Basically looking at your areas of heat and redoing the flow altogether, then you get into how much damage that would do the engine design to start with. :sour:


Maybe build an add on kit with hoses and tape those IT canned air bottles to your feet, when you get to hot, just hit the hoses to eject the air to then cool the aluminum bottle, thus cooling your foot.

Maybe we are all approaching this from the wrong direction. We just need air conditioned boots.

QUITE interesting. I am going to need some liquid nitrogen, some compressors and a picture of me laying on the garage floor like Farmboy except surrounded by little empty airplane bottles of liquor.
 
Here's my issue. The OP title's the Thread "Fan Blocking Plate Causes Heat Damage to RT" and then he gives us both these statements (in red). Another piece of evidence we are missing on this issue is that if the other RT that had the heat issue made his own blocking plate, or purchased Harvey Clark's (aka Spyderpop's) LaBlock. I have ISCI's fancan, Spyderpop's LaBlock (and most of his products which he's tested), got my lower splash panels removed and the lower vent opened. So far, the heat on the right side has gone down around a 25-30% (I ride in shorts like Tito, maybe 20% of the time and in town, mostly going to Church meetings), and my :spyder2: has never been happier. Other Spyderpop customers are very happy with the LaBlock and (so far) haven't heard of any engine heat issues because of it...:chat:

I wouldn't put too much weight in this story...(no offense to OP).. but it's a 3rd generation story and a DEALER was the one telling it. Many, if not most, dealers will easily try to blame a 3rd party modification for any kind of failure--- we've all seen this. Too many facts get left out or changed along the line of storytelling. I won't believe much like this until I hear it from the person it happened to. How many other crazy mis-truths have we all heard from dealers ?
 
I wouldn't put too much weight in this story...(no offense to OP).. but it's a 3rd generation story and a DEALER was the one telling it. Many, if not most, dealers will easily try to blame a 3rd party modification for any kind of failure--- we've all seen this. Too many facts get left out or changed along the line of storytelling. I won't believe much like this until I hear it from the person it happened to. How many other crazy mis-truths have we all heard from dealers ?

:agree: My point exactly.
 
Harvey installed the block off on our (ooops, BBs) 2010 RTS last year at Maggie Valley. It has made a big difference. Now, I have to say that I haven't noticed that much hot air coming out of my 2012 RTS and I don't have the blocker on it. The '10 had a bunch of heat out of it. Is it just me, or is the '12 running cooler?
 
air conditioned boots

tito, you kill me:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: someday soon i'll take a good look at dave and teddys rt and figure it all out for everybody. ooooooo taaaaay ?:roflblack:
 
NO PROBLEMS HERE

I have had mine on for 18 months and not one issue. Thank Dod for people that think out side the box. Best investment I have made to my Spyder.

I took my RT Limited in for the 3000 mile service today and when checking out at the service desk the service manager mentioned that he noticed I had vent blocking plates installed. (I have both right-side vents blocked off. (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ght-side-vents&p=466311&viewfull=1#post466311) and don't seem to have any trouble.)

Anyway, the service manager told me I could do what I wanted, but he wanted to caution me that they had just resolved an issue with someone else's RT where the computer and associated wiring was damaged because of the heat being trapped under the Tupperware and not being vented because he installed a blocking plate. I don't know if he closed off both vent openings or only one of them. Apparently service dept spent close to 100 hours trouble shooting and sending parts back & forth to BRP for help, when they finally discovered severe heat damage to some of the wire harness and around the computer.

To the best of my knowledge, this is the first actual report on damage caused by limiting the heat escape from an RT. I asked if the fellow had removed the bottom plate and or opened up the "swoop area" to let the heat escape and was told that he did not.

So far I've not had any issues. I'm hoping that the large opening I put in the swoop area allows enough heat to escape that things stay cool enough. I'm also working on other ideas the shed additional heat like wrapping my exhaust. I ordered the stuff last night.

 
I am wondering about the pulling of "non hot" air and the addition of "chemically cooled air" into a chamber, then forcing that flow to mix, then into a channel and be removed. Basically looking at your areas of heat and redoing the flow altogether, then you get into how much damage that would do the engine design to start with. :sour:

Maybe build an add on kit with hoses and tape those IT canned air bottles to your feet, when you get to hot, just hit the hoses to eject the air to then cool the aluminum bottle, thus cooling your foot.

Maybe we are all approaching this from the wrong direction. We just need air conditioned boots.

QUITE interesting. I am going to need some liquid nitrogen, some compressors and a picture of me laying on the garage floor like Farmboy except surrounded by little empty airplane bottles of liquor.
:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:
MAN that sounds like ME!

But seriously folks (why do I use 'folks' a lot???)... you might want to read this--- http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...r-Solution-for&p=488674&viewfull=1#post488674
I still have some concerns about my approach, but at the moment it sure works great since most of my riding is <55mph around town.
 
I am one of those few dummies that frequently rides in shorts and sandals, yes my toes get hot mostly in traffic, yes I've learned to move them either in or outwards for some relief, no I haven't complained on this forum that I can remember, I know it's the nature of the beast. Why do I do it, because its comfortable for me and I get a rise out of my Harley buddies, I mean they just all look the same in their Harley tees, chaps and stuff.
 
I figured that'd draw you out! :roflblack:
Doesn't Harley actually have something going on in the electrics that can shut off the rear cylinder if things get too hot?

Yep, It's called parade mode, It only comes on at idle and crawling speeds in extremely hot temps, You'll never even notice it except that a little key shape light will go on the dash, Turn the throttle a little over idle and it gos back to normal. It's not a limp mode.
 
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