I know it is a little early but fall in the North will be here soon. This is my first year with a bike and was wondering what are the steps in getting this thing ready for winter so I can start planning. One particular question is with the battery, do you leave it on trikle charge and leave it connected to the bike?? Do you use gas stabilizer? Any help would be appreciated. I ask now because I fiqure I only have about 6 - 8 weeks and want to start planning about storage etc... thanks
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Fall shutdown
- Thread starter czdaryle
- Start date
lightman02
New member
Good question, I know BRP says to change the oil with fresh oil before storage. Then they say to remove the bike from storage and just ride. I would think that leaving the older oil in the bike during storage and putting fresh oil in when your ready to start your season makes more sense. Myabee I'm wrong?? What does everyone else think?
AMTJIM
New member
Fresh oil when you store it...used oil, mainly non-synth, starts breaking down and acids can/do form. There's always a little fuel that gets past the pistons after recent running to contribute to oil problems in the long run. Fuel does go bad rather quickly once it starts going bad, another break down process like oil, so add that stabilizer. Keep the battery on a trickle charger. You can still run the bike with stabilizr in it...I would suggest on a break in the bad weather take it out for a good run to avoid any corrosion between tight tolerance spots that sit next to each other for long periods. Don't hesitate to go through the storage process again if you are not able to ride the machine for a long period.
:agree:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I winterize 23 bikes each year, and several old cars. My procedure:
1. Ride to the gas station and fill the tank to avoid condensation problems and warm the bike.
2. Add fuel stabilizer. (Can do before or during Step 1)
3. Change the oil.
4. Pull the spark plugs and spray the warm cylinders with fogging oil. Replace spark plugs.
5. Put it on the battery charger. Don't use a conventional charger or trickle charger because the battery may dry out and fail. Battery Tender, Battery Tender Jr., Accumate, or Optimate are my choices. All have special features to prevent battery damage.
6. Some say to wax and leave the wax on. Some say just to wax. Big controversy in car circles. I generally do neither, but I make sure it is thoroughly clean and completely dry. Preferably do this a few days before storage. A spot of crud can cause corrosion to start.
Not saying this is right, or the only way, but it has worked successfully for years for me here in Michigan in an unheated garage.
-Scotty
1. Ride to the gas station and fill the tank to avoid condensation problems and warm the bike.
2. Add fuel stabilizer. (Can do before or during Step 1)
3. Change the oil.
4. Pull the spark plugs and spray the warm cylinders with fogging oil. Replace spark plugs.
5. Put it on the battery charger. Don't use a conventional charger or trickle charger because the battery may dry out and fail. Battery Tender, Battery Tender Jr., Accumate, or Optimate are my choices. All have special features to prevent battery damage.
6. Some say to wax and leave the wax on. Some say just to wax. Big controversy in car circles. I generally do neither, but I make sure it is thoroughly clean and completely dry. Preferably do this a few days before storage. A spot of crud can cause corrosion to start.
Not saying this is right, or the only way, but it has worked successfully for years for me here in Michigan in an unheated garage.
-Scotty
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Fortunately, many take only one quart of the slippery stuff. Still takes me several days, spread out over a month or so. Startup from mothballs is quicker. BTW, I actually remove the batteries from most of them. The Spyder and BMWs will keep theirs, and maybe one or two others. That is no picnic, since I have to bring them into the basement and charge them monthly all winter.
-Scotty
effgjamis
Ride Forrest Ride!
barb36jack31
New member
Just a comment - Recommend you double the amt of Stabil in the gas. I have stored bikes in Maine for years and the double up on Stabil really works.
In the spring, just hook up the battery, hit the starter button and away you go.
Jack H.
In the spring, just hook up the battery, hit the starter button and away you go.
Jack H.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Good point, Jack. I usually put in some extra, but forgot to mention it.
-Scotty
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
You can leave the battery in with a Battery Tender. Comes with a pigtail to hook to the battery, so you can just plug it in from then on. Same for its kin, like the Accumate. Good investment in our part of the country. Not necessary to leave it on indefinitely, but doesn't hurt gelled or sealed batteries, and is much easier.
-Scotty
tatt2r
PhotoShop Master
had to scrape ice off my seat in the morning the first 2 weeks i owned it ,,, here in new england ,,, don't plan on storing it at all ..... bundle up ...it seems to run better in cold weather must be canadian air
Greg H.
New member
I've complained about the climate in the Mid-South plenty in the past. But, the fact is; when it comes to the Spyder, there really won't be much down time at all. If we get icy conditions, it lasts usually no more than a day or two. And, snow? Not likely. But, that can occur. Again; little downtime.
All in all; this area should be very condusive to year round Spyder enjoyment.
All in all; this area should be very condusive to year round Spyder enjoyment.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
You don't need the Tender plugged in all the time in the winter, but remembering to charge it for a day every couple of weeks is a pain. I recommend leaving it until you are riding steadily in the Spring.
I don't change my oil again in the Spring. I have heard of some that do. Arguments both directions on this topic. I only know in all the years I have been collecting and riding motorcycles, I have never had a problem the way I did things. With the Spyder, to be honest, and the combination of synthetic oil, and a dry sump system, where the engine parts and gears don't sit constantly half in the oil, it may not be necessary to change the oil in Fall at all. I haven't made up my mind on this one, yet. I don't change my Triumph every year. With the Spyder, and its more expensive, synthetic oil, it will also be costly to change needlessly.
-Scotty
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Too much snow in Michigan to pull off that trick. I did ride every month a couple of years back, but haven't been able to the last two winters. Once the gravel driveway gets iced in, it stays that way until Spring. Never have to worry about love bugs, or riding in 110 degree heat, however.
-Scotty
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