F3T or F3L

[Floridian2017]

I have a 2017 RTS and I am going to trade for a F3 model. I am between F3T or F3L. What is the difference? Do you think is worth the price of F3L?

 

[Kiry]

I did a google search for you, since I couldn't remember myself and laughed when I saw myself being redirected back to this site. here you go:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ited-vs-F3-T-is-the-Limited-worth-the-premium

I have the F3L, love it. But then, I wanted the space, heated grips and floorboards to start with so it was a no-brainer for me.

 

[Floridian2017]

I did a google search for you, since I couldn't remember myself and laughed when I saw myself being redirected back to this site. here you go:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ited-vs-F3-T-is-the-Limited-worth-the-premium

I have the F3L, love it. But then, I wanted the space, heated grips and floorboards to start with so it was a no-brainer for me.

Thank you....

 

[bushrat]

We chose, and very happily ryde, a 2017 F3L. There was a substantial price differential between the two when we bought - much more for the L. Define your needs; then address your wants. If you plan to do any great amount of 2-up ryding and/or any possibility of touring, I think it's worth considering the extra cost of the factory-issue L. As Kiry says - "space, heated grips, floorboards" - made their decision a "no brainer". To that, I'd add: automatically adjusted rear suspension, plus the simple fact that you've got a 'ready-made' package and you're all set to head out. Everything fits; it's well designed and integrated. That rear top case will pay dividends by itself. Yes, you can take the more basic T and farkle it with add-ons like top case, floorboards, etc., all of which add to cost. If you have special aftermarket pieces you really like better, I suppose you can morph your T into an L, eventually. To my eyes, though, there's something to be said for the feel and flow of the L, as created/assembled by the BRP engineers/designers. The more I tinker and play with things, the more I contemplate how I might change something, the more impressed I am with what BRP decided upon - except maybe for their stock seat and brake pedal height. But even after you pay the extra for the L (or your upgraded T, if you DIY), you're still likely to want to add some farkles, make some changes, so expenditures don't necessarily end with the basic "L or T" decision. In the end, either choice will provide lots of fun. So, it's your decision, your wallet. Good luck. Safe and happy ryding!!!

 

[blacklightning]

It all comes down to what you use your spyder for. I went from a 2014 RT to a 2016 F3T. I didn't need the additional storage of the trunk, as I only take 1-2 long trips a year. I also added the heated grips and made my own floor boards. The thing I like best about the F3T over the Limited is the larger rear sprocket, which gives it better acceleration. That was reason enough for me to stick with the T over the Limited. I think the Limited in 2016 had the larger sprocket, but I got a smoking deal on the T, so I am happy. Good luck shopping.

 

[Bob Denman]

Which one do you REALLY like more?

You're the only one who can answer that question, and it IS your money. :dontknow:

Happy Shopping! :thumbup:

 

[Floridian2017]

We chose, and very happily ryde, a 2017 F3L. There was a substantial price differential between the two when we bought - much more for the L. Define your needs; then address your wants. If you plan to do any great amount of 2-up ryding and/or any possibility of touring, I think it's worth considering the extra cost of the factory-issue L. As Kiry says - "space, heated grips, floorboards" - made their decision a "no brainer". To that, I'd add: automatically adjusted rear suspension, plus the simple fact that you've got a 'ready-made' package and you're all set to head out. Everything fits; it's well designed and integrated. That rear top case will pay dividends by itself. Yes, you can take the more basic T and farkle it with add-ons like top case, floorboards, etc., all of which add to cost. If you have special aftermarket pieces you really like better, I suppose you can morph your T into an L, eventually. To my eyes, though, there's something to be said for the feel and flow of the L, as created/assembled by the BRP engineers/designers. The more I tinker and play with things, the more I contemplate how I might change something, the more impressed I am with what BRP decided upon - except maybe for their stock seat and brake pedal height. But even after you pay the extra for the L (or your upgraded T, if you DIY), you're still likely to want to add some farkles, make some changes, so expenditures don't necessarily end with the basic "L or T" decision. In the end, either choice will provide lots of fun. So, it's your decision, your wallet. Good luck. Safe and happy ryding!!!

Love your reply... Thanks

 

[robtdonna]

For me/us, we got the T vs. the L because we did not want the topbox. Why? Because there is more room for umm, my well endowed wife with the BRP adjustable passenger backrest vs. the built-in backrest on the topbox.

 

[Samson]

I did the T, wasn't sure I needed the extra space. I figured if after I got I wanted more space then I could always add the top trunk. Haven't looked back. Don't need the space.

 

[Pirate looks at --]

Well I will always go back to the difference in the rear sprocket. The F3T has a much larger sprocket than the F3L (post 2016). This really makes a difference in the performance. You will find that the newer F3Ls are much more sluggish than the F3T, and as far as I can tell the only difference is the small RT sprocket that they put on the F3 L. When ryding them both while conducting "Test Rydes" for BRP I could always take corners harder with the larger sprocket. With the newer F3L, the nanny really steps in and spoils a lot of the fun. Perhaps a Ron Bar would make a difference here, but if performance is important to you.....go with the T!:yes:

 

[Cruzr Joe]

F3-T more for one up riding

F3-L more for two up riding with heavier rear shock

Among many obvious reasons, Rear Box, Floorboards, Heated Grips, Auto Height Adjust, Etc, Etc


Cruzr Joe

 

[jbim]

I have the F3L

and love it. I had the same decision to make and I was convinced by the argument that on resale or trade you are better off with a stock bike than a bike with farkles and aftermarket parts. If you think you can live with the T as is without making it an L in the future than keep your money. But if you think you will miss the top case, the floorboards, the air suspension, etc, don’t waste your time and take the L.

Good luck

 

[Michaelscs]

F3-T more for one up riding

F3-L more for two up riding with heavier rear shock

Among many obvious reasons, Rear Box, Floorboards, Heated Grips, Auto Height Adjust, Etc, Etc


Cruzr Joe

To the red - This info is not correct. The F3T & F3L have the same rear shock and rear spring package - Check the parts diagram.
They both also have an air bag. Manual air fill for the T & onboard compressor fill for the L.

 

[Pirate looks at --]

To the red - This info is not correct. The F3T & F3L have the same rear shock and rear spring package - Check the parts diagram.
They both also have an air bag. Manual air fill for the T & onboard compressor fill for the L.

I believe that Joe is basing this on the standard features of the L lend it the Two up ryding situation better than the T. However even with Skinny me and skinny wife, I find it pretty crowded on the F3L with two up!

 

[dondje]

I have a 2017 RTS and I am going to trade for a F3 model. I am between F3T or F3L. What is the difference? Do you think is worth the price of F3L?

Floridian…
For me, the T was a no brainer. I prefer a rack over a trunk. A lot more options for carrying things. I prefer heated gloves over heated grips. I prefer aftermarket running boards over the L model ones. I REALLY prefer the T front wheels over the L ones. Still a tossup on the shock air compressor. I think I would like it, but it is just one more thing to go wrong, and several on SL have said it does.
I added the F3 Ultimate running boards, both BRP back rest, so almost $1200 there. I am working on a design for a custom rack – we have a metal fab shop and mill where I work.
Happy that we have choices!
Regards,
Don

 

[AeroPilot]

Wifes F3T set up just for her

Her 16 F3T came with heated grips as part of the deal. We added Lamonsters RIP boards, foglights and the SmoothSpyder backrest. As Bob said, your money, your choice:clap: