F3s Belt tension

[Mikescanam]

What is the spec for F3s belt tension? I have the
manual transmission dont know if that makes a difference.
Just bought a Kriket and want to check the belt tension.
Do I check with rear wheel on ground or jack up?:banghead:

 

[Sarge707]

What is the spec for F3s belt tension? I have the
manual transmission dont know if that makes a difference.
Just bought a Kriket and want to check the belt tension.
Do I check with rear wheel on ground or jack up?:banghead:

Good Question- It seems BRP has changed the Spec because of vibrations- Maybe an Expert can Help Us???:dontknow:

 

[4moto]

Not an expert but best to check with rear wheel off the ground. Here are the revised numbers.I think I've added a phito of the BRP document.

 

[GOZFST]

From Baja Ron on a similar question.
've gotten a lot of inquiries about setting the proper belt tension with the Krikit II. This tool is simple, very easy to use and quite accurate when done correctly. But you need numbers!

Doing some research and crunching/converting the values (Newtons to Pound Force) this is what I came up with. The original Newton specs. came off of the Internet. You should check your owner's manual to verify my numbers.

Tension values for the 2013-2015 Spyder Belt are higher than for the 2008-2012 Spyders. I did not calculate 'Wheel on the Ground' figures for the 2013-2015 models as they will exceed the 330 lb. measuring limit on the Krikit II gauge. 2013-2015 Spyder owners will need to raise the rear wheel off the ground to get an accurate belt tension measurement with the Krikit II gauge.

[TABLE="class: cms_table"]
[TR]
[TD]998cc All Models (2008 - 2012)[/TD]
[TD]Min[/TD]
[TD]Spec[/TD]
[TD]Max[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Newtons - Wheel Elevated[/TD]
[TD]300n[/TD]
[TD]450n[/TD]
[TD]600n[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel Elevated - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]67 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]101 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]135 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel on the Ground - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]130 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]160 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]190 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]


[TABLE="class: cms_table"]
[TR]
[TD]998cc All Models (2013-2015)[/TD]
[TD]Min[/TD]
[TD]Spec[/TD]
[TD]Max[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Newtons - Wheel Elevated[/TD]
[TD]900n[/TD]
[TD]1050n[/TD]
[TD]1200n[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel Elevated - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]202 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]236 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]270 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]


[TABLE="class: cms_table"]
[TR]
[TD]1330cc All Models (2014-2015)[/TD]
[TD]Min[/TD]
[TD]Spec[/TD]
[TD]Max[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Newtons - Wheel Elevated[/TD]
[TD]900n[/TD]
[TD]1050n[/TD]
[TD]1200n[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel Elevated - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]202 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]236 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]270 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

 

[Sarge707]

So the F3 is 130 Pounds in Post #3 and 236 Pounds in Post #4?:dontknow:

 

[BeRight]

So the F3 is 130 Pounds in Post #3 and 236 Pounds in Post #4?:dontknow:

As posted by spydermanstever and 4moto - BRP technical bulletin (TST) dated 9/18/2015 belt tension for F3 is 300N +- 100N, rear wheel off ground (of course). It also goes into technical explanation of belt vibration.

Spydermanstever was kind enough to email me pdf version so that it was large enough to read, versus photo posted on this forum.

I'd be happy to pass forward this TST, just PM me and provide your email.

 

[Wildrice]

BRP belt tension & all other published specs

So the F3 is 130 Pounds in Post #3 and 236 Pounds in Post #4?:dontknow:

Sarge---what's the problem with a 90%+ error factor. I'm thinking maybe they want use to use diesel fuel. I'm starting to wonder if they have a manufacuring spec plan---did it start---why yes---then ship it:yes:

 

[Sarge707]

Sarge---what's the problem with a 90%+ error factor. I'm thinking maybe they want use to use diesel fuel. I'm starting to wonder if they have a manufacuring spec plan---did it start---why yes---then ship it:yes:

:agree: Some people have been riding the F3 for 15,000 Plus miles with the belt tension about 100 pounds to heavy it would appear, OR does the Higher tension "Do No Harm?" BUT the lower tension reduces belt vibration/Harmonics?:dontknow:

 

[4moto]

For reference, they just reset mine to the lower value I posted and it's cured 90% of my vibration. Using my kriket, with the rear wherl ON the ground it reads a hair over 200.

 

[Sarge707]

For reference, they just reset mine to the lower value I posted and it's cured 90% of my vibration. Using my kriket, with the rear wherl ON the ground it reads a hair over 200.

If they Indeed reset it properly you should be between 130-150 Pounds on the ground- Not 200 Plus???

 

[4moto]

It could be bad technique on my part. I can only tell you that they gave me the paper with the new numbers on it that I posted, told me they reset it and the vibration was 90% cured. It had been very bad prior to that.

 

[BajaRon]

My 2 cents on this one. And I am probably overcharging!

There are 2 issues in play here.

#1 - Bearing Capacity
#2 - Belt Vibration

#1 is critical. Exceed the capabilities of the front or rear bearings and you're going to have failure. Catastrophic failure if it is the front counter shaft bearing. This is what drove the original belt tension reductions for the 2008-2012 models.

However, the lower belt tension specs. led to Issue #2. (Unintended consequence?)

#2 addresses customer complaints of 'excessive belt vibration'. The problem here is that 'Excessive' is a very subjective term. You might think that belt vibration on my Spyder is excessive. I think it is fine. But with the idea that 'The customer is always right', BRP has now transitioned from addressing Issue #1 to addressing Issue #2.

So how do you resolve the elusive issue of belt vibration. This is the Holy Grail that many (including BRP) are searching for. The only way to change (and possibly eliminate) belt vibration is to change belt tension or add a belt tensioner, which obviously BRP, to this point, is not interested in doing.

Since I assume that the previous upper belt tension limits were set to protect the bearings (Issue #1), the only adjustment option is DOWN.

So, I said all of that to say this. It is my feeling that this TST has nothing to do with Issue #1 and everything to do with Issue #2. You have to consider the poor dealerships with customers banging on their customer service desks demanding that something be done about belt vibration. Hence this TST is simply an option to try for those wanting to address Issue #2. And not a universal spec change.

In other words. If you're happy with the previous belt tension then I would forget about this TST. If your not, then give these new numbers a try.

I have no inside information and I may be completely wrong here. It would be great if BRP would clarify the issue. But if you are really having vibration issues and there is nothing mechanically wrong and everything is adjusted properly. A good belt tensioner is your only real solution. Because you could get everything adjusted just right, zero vibration, etc. Then load up for a trip 2-up, add your trailer and guess what. That vibration has come back because you've changed the parameters. A belt tensioner will compensate. A belt alone won't.

Good luck everyone! I am fortunate that my properly set belt using the previous (Pre-TST) numbers is just fine! :thumbup:

 

[Sarge707]

So they are stating 630N for the RT, which is lowered quite a bit from stock AND 300N for F3 which is lowered a LOT from stock!
I have minimum vibration on the F3 and already lowered the tension on my 2012 RT so Its time to get pout the 36 mm Wrenches and criket to do the F3?

 

[OJ UK]

Here's that spec. again...

 

[Sarge707]

Well I think the Best thing is to get a Cricket and check because I tested my F3 today with 1,800 miles and Did it exactly by the book and got 140 Pounds on the ground which is equivalent to 350N according to the #4 Post chart. If 300N is the acceptable standard within 100 N Mine should be fine!

Would be interesting to see what reading others get with a Fairly New F3? I was expecting by that chart to get a reading of OVER 200 Pounds so I'm happy where I am!:bowdown:

 

[Lastchance]

Fairly new just pasted 1000 mi checked on ground 200 lbs and not changing til I see what seems to be a final number

 

[BeRight]

Well I think the Best thing is to get a Cricket and check because I tested my F3 today with 1,800 miles and Did it exactly by the book and got 140 Pounds on the ground which is equivalent to 350N according to the #4 Post chart. If 300N is the acceptable standard within 100 N Mine should be fine!

Would be interesting to see what reading others get with a Fairly New F3? I was expecting by that chart to get a reading of OVER 200 Pounds so I'm happy where I am!:bowdown:

Maybe I am missing something: By the book - shop manual - belt tension is measured with rear wheel off the ground. The 300N +- 100N is for wheel "off the ground," and you are at 350N on the ground????? Did you mean 350N off the ground???

If you meant 350N on the ground, what was your reading when you did it "exactly by the book" off the ground?

 

[graeme.g.1957]

Rear wheel jacking point??

Wondering if anyone can help out with the correct jacking point for raising rear wheel to adjust belt tension. Cheers, Graeme

 

[Midian]

This is is the best post I have seen regarding this issue to date. Well done and thank you!

My 2 cents on this one. And I am probably overcharging!

There are 2 issues in play here.

#1 - Bearing Capacity
#2 - Belt Vibration

#1 is critical. Exceed the capabilities of the front or rear bearings and you're going to have failure. Catastrophic failure if it is the front counter shaft bearing. This is what drove the original belt tension reductions for the 2008-2012 models.

However, the lower belt tension specs. led to Issue #2. (Unintended consequence?)

#2 addresses customer complaints of 'excessive belt vibration'. The problem here is that 'Excessive' is a very subjective term. You might think that belt vibration on my Spyder is excessive. I think it is fine. But with the idea that 'The customer is always right', BRP has now transitioned from addressing Issue #1 to addressing Issue #2.

So how do you resolve the elusive issue of belt vibration. This is the Holy Grail that many (including BRP) are searching for. The only way to change (and possibly eliminate) belt vibration is to change belt tension or add a belt tensioner, which obviously BRP, to this point, is not interested in doing.

Since I assume that the previous upper belt tension limits were set to protect the bearings (Issue #1), the only adjustment option is DOWN.

So, I said all of that to say this. It is my feeling that this TST has nothing to do with Issue #1 and everything to do with Issue #2. You have to consider the poor dealerships with customers banging on their customer service desks demanding that something be done about belt vibration. Hence this TST is simply an option to try for those wanting to address Issue #2. And not a universal spec change.

In other words. If you're happy with the previous belt tension then I would forget about this TST. If your not, then give these new numbers a try.

I have no inside information and I may be completely wrong here. It would be great if BRP would clarify the issue. But if you are really having vibration issues and there is nothing mechanically wrong and everything is adjusted properly. A good belt tensioner is your only real solution. Because you could get everything adjusted just right, zero vibration, etc. Then load up for a trip 2-up, add your trailer and guess what. That vibration has come back because you've changed the parameters. A belt tensioner will compensate. A belt alone won't.

Good luck everyone! I am fortunate that my properly set belt using the previous (Pre-TST) numbers is just fine! :thumbup:

 

[james8luc8]

Ok

Ok so this weekend I'm setting my alignment and tension on my 2015 spyder f3 and have the krikit gauge range 100 to 300lb what should it read on the ground ?