F3-S stuck in 2nd gear

[Hoginedgewood]

Read post number 4 above^^^!

Yeah. I see 2 shoulds. What I see is a person debating on how to get the bike out of the "line of fire"
If they aren't familiar enough with their ride to get it in neutral, my solution would work.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Yeah. I see 2 shoulds. What I see is a person debating on how to get the bike out of the "line of fire"
If they aren't familiar enough with their ride to get it in neutral, my solution would work.

The thing is Hoginedgewood, if it's an SE then the moment the motor stops & oil pressure drops, then even if it IS jammed in a gear, due to the lack of oil pressure holding it engaged, the clutch still disengages the engine from the gearbox, belt, & drive sprockets, so it'll roll away if you don't use the Park Brake. :shocked: And if it's an SM, then even if it IS jammed in a gear, pulling the clutch lever in will disengage the engine from the gearbox, belt, & drive sprockets so it'll roll anywhere you like, unless/until you release the clutch lever.

Just like dorourke apparently did in his first post in this thread, many get caught out by this, thinking that just cos the dash shows it's still in a gear it won't roll! :cus: However, just cos the Gear Position Sensor still says the GEARBOX is in a gear (any gear) if the engine isn't running in an SE, then (barring any other mechanical failures ) the clutch isn't connecting the engine &/or gearbox to the rest of the driveline, so the Park Brake is ESSENTIAL to stop it rolling! And with an SM the clutch lever does the same thing - so in both the instances ottawa-rider suggested in post #4 & Snoking mentioned/you quoted, pulling the belt off any sprocket would be completely redundant - the Spyder will still roll with the belt on!! :thumbup:

Now if the clutch mechanism had failed & jammed the gearbox in a gear with the clutch also jammed & inoperably still engaging the rest of driveline to the gearbox & belt, then that'd be where your 'remove the belt' scenario would come into play! hyea:

Make sense?! :dontknow:

 

[dorourke7280]

Update: there is no fuel leak. What I was seeing was fuel dripping from the expansion tubes at the filler neck from me sloppily filling from a can. Back to square one. Full disclosure: when this happened, it was my first ride after having it in the shop for the same issue. They came back with water (lots of it) in the tank. I suspected the notoriously hard to close fuel cap, so just this morning I installed the LaMonster keyless gas cap. I can get it started with starting fluid in the air filter housing, but it quickly conks out. I’m about at my wit’s end with this thing.

 

[dorourke7280]

If you’re seriously bored, or intensely curious, I posted about this issue back in October. You can search my username if you want to check it out. It’s the only other thread I’ve started.

 

[billybovine]

You may already have checked this but is the fuel pump working. With the engine kill switch in the run position. Turn on the ignition key. You should hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds. If not that may be your problem.

 

[JayBros]

OK, so the shop emptied the fuel tank and found lots of water. Did they completely purge the system including possibly changing the fuel filter? Billy's latest post is in the bulls-eye although the engine was running when it died so that leads me to believe the fuel pump was functioning unless it failed and that's what caused the engine to die. When I got a bad load of fuel, water too, and my engine died about 1/4 mile from the gas station I could hear the fuel pump prime when I turned the ignition on and tried to restart it.