F3-S belt adjustment

[MakoShark2]

Got a new tire and at the dealer.

Mechanic was a nice guy but he just won't go into details.

Everything was torqued on the feeling and when I asked him about the belt alignment I just got a "don't worry it will be right after some riding".

I've stopped a few times on my way home (I'm about 100km or 60mi from the dealer) and while the belt is not on the edge it's surely not running where it was before (about 1mm of the flange).

So following the wise words of: "If you want something done right do it yourself"... I'll be adjusting this belt myself.

Read all the precious info on the forum and I think I'm OK with the procedure.

But still missing some tools and some info.

Krikit II is on the way, as I feel tension is not right (the belt position varies when I stop and check).

I'll need a new set of spanner's for the axle... Maximum I got in my toolbox is a size 32mm and seems small, what is the correct size?

And I believe 166lbs/ft should be the correct tightening force (for a 2018 F3-S european model) for the axle, is this right?

Also if anyone knows the tightening force for the bolts that hold the rear fender to to the swing arm, the guy removed it and while I'me there I might check this also.

Thanks.

 

[Gwolf]

Axle Nuts 36 MM. Probably find the size of the other fasteners and torques here;

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?129773-2019-F3-S-Rear-Tire-Change

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Got a new tire and at the dealer.

Mechanic was a nice guy but he just won't go into details.

Everything was torqued on the feeling and when I asked him about the belt alignment I just got a "don't worry it will be right after some riding".

I've stopped a few times on my way home (I'm about 100km or 60mi from the dealer) and while the belt is not on the edge it's surely not running where it was before (about 1mm of the flange).

So following the wise words of: "If you want something done right do it yourself"... I'll be adjusting this belt myself.

Read all the precious info on the forum and I think I'm OK with the procedure.

But still missing some tools and some info.

Krikit II is on the way, as I feel tension is not right (the belt position varies when I stop and check).

I'll need a new set of spanner's for the axle... Maximum I got in my toolbox is a size 32mm and seems small, what is the correct size?

And I believe 166lbs/ft should be the correct tightening force (for a 2018 F3-S european model) for the axle, is this right?

Also if anyone knows the tightening force for the bolts that hold the rear fender to to the swing arm, the guy removed it and while I'me there I might check this also.

Thanks.

:welcome: and :congrats: ..... I use the KritKit II also .... I have learned how to measure the pressure while the tire is on the ground .... I use 155-160 and have NO belt vibes ..... and I'm not worried that any bearings will sieze at this tension ...... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[MakoShark2]

Axle Nuts 36 MM. Probably find the size of the other fasteners and torques here;

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?129773-2019-F3-S-Rear-Tire-Change

Thanks, great tutorial there.

 

[south GA Farm Boy]

Belt sound like it may be correct, over here we say the width of a credit card off the flange at the rear tire. Most new Spyders come in with the belt running against the flange, so it may have changed, but I set mine at a credit card width away from the rear flange! Be careful adjusting the belt, I jacked my rear wheel up and cranked up the engine, and ran it in first gear with the wheel spinning to adjust it! The parking brake came on and locked the rear wheel down on my 2018 F3L, and Had to take it to the dealer 120 miles away! I always did my previous RTL that way with no problems!

 

[wingit3611]

Belt sound like it may be correct, over here we say the width of a credit card off the flange at the rear tire. Most new Spyders come in with the belt running against the flange, so it may have changed, but I set mine at a credit card width away from the rear flange! Be careful adjusting the belt, I jacked my rear wheel up and cranked up the engine, and ran it in first gear with the wheel spinning to adjust it! The parking brake came on and locked the rear wheel down on my 2018 F3L, and Had to take it to the dealer 120 miles away! I always did my previous RTL that way with no problems!

What was you previous one? I have a 2013 RTL and plan on doing it the way you did. Am I safe?

 

[south GA Farm Boy]

I had a 2013 RTL and the next one was a 2016 RTL, and now the 2018 F-3L. Only had the problem of running the rear wheel in 1st gear and locking the brake down on the F-3L when I was adjusting the belt. Other may have had problems doing the RTL's, but i did not! Hope this helps!

 

[MakoShark2]

Thanks, I'm planning spinning the wheel by hand. Having it running while up in the air does scares me.

Have the correct size spanner still waiting for the krikit...

 

[stu]

If you turn it by hand then ride it the belt will not be in the correct spot.you need to set it right then run it off the ground for a while to test.this will then most likely set a vss fault code as your front wheels arnt turning and nanny will think your doing a burn out.

 

[Gwolf]

If you turn it by hand then ride it the belt will not be in the correct spot.you need to set it right then run it off the ground for a while to test.this will then most likely set a vss fault code as your front wheels arnt turning and nanny will think your doing a burn out.

If you put it in Sport Mode with the traction control off, it should not throw any fault codes. The 2018 probably will not throw a fault code, even with the traction control engaged if you keep the steering centered while turning the rear wheel. The traction control does not normally consider straight line tire spinning a fault.

 

[MakoShark2]

Well still no krikit, posting has been real slow because of the situation.

So I still atempted doing some adjustment as I noticed the right adjuster was loose. So my thinking was if I just put it like it was maybe the whole thing goes like it was.

I've undone the axle bang it a bit forward (with rubber hammer and a piece of wood) and it was tight again. Of course as soon as I've started tightening the axle it moved.

More banging more tightening a few times until it wasn't moving and I could put the recomended torque... By the way 166lbs-ft is a lot of tightening and the way it was easy to undone the guy surely didn't had it torqued to spec before.

I'll need to ride a bit tomorrow, but by the looks seems like it was before, belt really close to the flange. Wasn't to scary (I've adjusted motorcycle chains before) and happier now.

Thanks for all the useful info, I'll get back to this when that damned krikit arrives.

 

[Gwolf]

Well still no krikit, posting has been real slow because of the situation.

So I still atempted doing some adjustment as I noticed the right adjuster was loose. So my thinking was if I just put it like it was maybe the whole thing goes like it was.

I've undone the axle bang it a bit forward (with rubber hammer and a piece of wood) and it was tight again. Of course as soon as I've started tightening the axle it moved.

More banging more tightening a few times until it wasn't moving and I could put the recomended torque... By the way 166lbs-ft is a lot of tightening and the way it was easy to undone the guy surely didn't had it torqued to spec before.

I'll need to ride a bit tomorrow, but by the looks seems like it was before, belt really close to the flange. Wasn't to scary (I've adjusted motorcycle chains before) and happier now.

Thanks for all the useful info, I'll get back to this when that damned krikit arrives.

Put narrow ratchet straps around the rear tire and over the cross bracing on the sides of the lower rear shock attachment point. With the axle nut loose, tighten on the ratchet strap to pull both sides of the adjusters up snug. Then torque the axle nut, but only pull forward with the torque wrench. If you have saddle bags they have to be removed........ at least one of them. Only put pressure on the torque wrench pulling forward. Let the wrench lock up on the off side. Tightening with the torque wrench pulling toward the rear will leave slack in the adjusters again.

 

[MakoShark2]

Thanks, I've seen your method but didn't had straps with ratchets... In the end the bang, tight and repeat method worked all the way.

I did remember and placed the wrench above and pushed it forward but strangely the axle always moved backward, maybe it was doing some kind of lever effect somehow.

 

[Gwolf]

Thanks, I've seen your method but didn't had straps with ratchets... In the end the bang, tight and repeat method worked all the way.

I did remember and placed the wrench above and pushed it forward but strangely the axle always moved backward, maybe it was doing some kind of lever effect somehow.

The belt tension will keep the drive side tight and try to twist the axle to make the brake side looser.

 

[MakoShark2]

Yes, I guest that's it. Mine twisted every time until well tightened.

I've ridden a couple of miles today and I'm happy. Absolutely sure that it is like it was before. Belt very very close to the flange (not sure if there's even 1mm there) but I got it like that from the factory.

Have to wait for the krikit and I'll see then if it needs more adjustments.

Thanks everyone.

 

[MakoShark2]

Just got the krikit on the mail today.

Pressure is exactly at 180lb-ft so I guess all is good now.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Claire]

Belt sound like it may be correct, over here we say the width of a credit card off the flange at the rear tire. Most new Spyders come in with the belt running against the flange, so it may have changed, but I set mine at a credit card width away from the rear flange! Be careful adjusting the belt, I jacked my rear wheel up and cranked up the engine, and ran it in first gear with the wheel spinning to adjust it! The parking brake came on and locked the rear wheel down on my 2018 F3L, and Had to take it to the dealer 120 miles away! I always did my previous RTL that way with no problems!

so if I can fit a credit card between belt & thingy in the rear thaats correct spacing?

 

[Woodaddict]

so if I can fit a credit card between belt & thingy in the rear thaats correct spacing?

the rear pulley side flange has a slight taper, so check that credit card spacing at very bottom, for me I want 1mm or .039 inch. also a kricket reading of 165 is better to get vibes down