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F3 new hole between position 3 + 4

Fire252fighter

New member
I have read a bunch of different fixes for break pedal height adjustment. Considered buying new rod or moding the original. I’m considering drilling a new hole in the frame between 3+4 and using stock position 3 rod has anyone done this? I have taken it apart and mocked it up in that location and seems for me that it will put the pedal where I want it and should still allow for full travel.
For reference this is my first bike of any kind however I am mechanically inclined. I have put around 200 miles on it as is and my only complaint is this and the shifter thinking of doing the same to both. At 6’2 recommendations to move to position 5 was given however I feel comfortable where I am just having trouble covering the break when needed as I have to point my toe all the way up to do so. So I find myself not covering the break as I should out of comfort.

2015 f3 sm6
 
I'm using position 4 but the OEM brake rod (to put it plainly) sucked. I installed the Lamonster brake rod for positon 4 which lowered the pedal and put it into a position which is super comfortable for my right foot to reach. Great accessory and cheap too! Two hoots to Lamont . . great job . . . :clap:
 
To answer your question. Yes you could drill a hole in between 3 and 4 which would give you the right height your looking for. That said. If your happy where it is now it would be much simpler to install Lamonsters brake rod. 5 minutes max. It's only 60 bucks.
 
Another reason why I prefer my SM-6 and pegs. They never raised the pedal on the SM like they had to for the floorboards on the SE-6
 
I have no idea what position number it is in, but the peg is in last hole it can go in forward. The brake pedal is about 45 degrees which is just right. It has the longest stock rod they make. Don't have any rods or pegs on the left side. Don't have a left foot.
 
I have no idea what position number it is in, but the peg is in last hole it can go in forward. The brake pedal is about 45 degrees which is just right. It has the longest stock rod they make. Don't have any rods or pegs on the left side. Don't have a left foot.

That would be position 5, with a position 5 rod, Gwolf. It’s great that that works for you. It sure doesn’t work for me with a 38” inleg ;) . That’s the problem. We are all such different shapes and sizes, with differing limitations, that comfortable positioning for one rider can be as uncomfortable as all get out for another ;)

Pete
 
I made my own rod to drop the brake pedal, cost about $10.

Details?? When I get back to Ohio i'm going to cut the original rod and see if one can tap and insert all thread into it to make it infinitely adjustable.

For now I have just drilled an extra hole in the forward postition rod which works well to lower it.

http://www.rattlebars.com/spyder/spyder.html

brake-rod.jpg
 
I tried the extra hole idea and the pedal was still too high for me. So I cut an inch out of the center of the rod drilled through a 3/8 X 6" pipe nipple with a 1/2" bit. I had already cut off the threaded ends of the nipple. Ground down the rod ends until there was a slip fit. Drilled through the nipple and rod and inserted 1/8" tension pins. Slipped other piece of rod into nipple / coupler and put it on the bike. Set the pedal where I wanted it, and marked the unpinned rod. Then drilled and pinned it with a couple tension pins. Painted it with flat black. Looks factory. Cost = $2.00 and a lot less work than threading - I thought about that and passed om it.
BRAKE ROD MOD.jpg
 
If you are 6'2", you need to go to position 5. I would not buy the Lamonster rod yet though. They are having the length corrected on #5 and the next batch will be the correct length. While I wait for the correct rod, I did drill a second hole in the BRP rod like post#9 above and it works good for now.
 
I appreciate all the comments and I am aware of the products like the rods from lamonster. For me it’s not about the money as much as seeing if it would work and doing it myself. After playing with positions with the stock #3 rod I decided to try it out.

I can say that without a doubt it is possible. I drilled a new hole in the frame same place as the rest directly between 3 and 4. Put my break pedal right where I wanted it and works great. I will say that my dad has no problem where it was and after moving it could still operate it but felt the pedal was too far forward to start. He’s 5’9” I’m 6’2.
 
I moved the pegs to the 5 position and at the current point in time I don’t like it I’m not going to say that I wouldn’t ever do it. The reason I like them near 3-4 is I feel more planted of my feet for body roll in the corners. Could be a number of reasons 1 this is the first thing I have ever rode without 4 wheels and doors. 2 and this is observations from my father. I tend to take winding roads faster than he would think to... blames it on not growing up yet (34). For cruising on long rides I think position 5 would be very comfortable but Im not ready to give up the stability in the corners yet. I’m new to all of this so everything is subject to change... thanks
 
Well it only took a month of riding to decide to make a change. I ordered and installed position 5 rods. Should have listed and done this from the start, I love it. I will most likely be drilling a new hole in the rod to move the brake pedal forward more but it is much better that stock position 3. Posting this more for if any other newbies come across this. If you are tall don’t hesitate spend the 50 and make the change defiantly worth it.
 
I did my own brake rod modification and posted it, but nobody liked it even though it cost under $3. I guess y'all think that's too cheap.
 
I looked at the lamonster rod on the video and noticed the forked section of the rod is much longer in the front which would allow more fine tuning with the drill method shown here because you would be able to drill more than one new hole in the fork.

brake-rod.jpg
 
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