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Exhaust wrapping round 2

MidLifeCrisis

New member
So after failing miserably last year and reading some posts on others wrapping the exhaust successfully, I decided to give it another run. last year, I was able to wrap the right side, but gave up on the left.

So far, no better luck than last year. I can't seem to be able to get the wrapping up close to the cylinder head. I've tried just starting forward of the oxygen sensor and pushing the clamp and wrapping up to the head and just can't get it to stay tight long enough to get started.

So, for all who have successfully wrapped pipes on an RT, how in the world did you get the wrapping to the head? I have the left side torn down, but not sure how to get the piece off in front of the oil cooler. This would no doubt give me more room to work and maybe even get two hands in, so I can clamp down the wrapping. I saw a couple of posts on this site and everyone seems to have left that panel on. I thought about pulling the pipes off, but that doesn't seem feasable, without tearing things even more, which I'm not quite interested in at this point.

Any help will be hugely appreciated. :)
 
I couldn't get any farther than the Oxygen sensor on the left side until I did the airbox removal. Then it was easy. Maybe others can chime in on how they did it.
 
no luck either!!!!!

I to have tried, got the left pipe from the y back up to before it turns to the front,you did better than me on the back or right pipe it seems impossible just no room to work.so I have given up, took off the cat waiting for bypass pipe to show up this week. after I install i'll run to see how the heat is with this and most of the left pipe wrapped it's got to help some
 
I finally got it done. I took a break after i posted and waited for my head to cool off. kinda hot out here in phoenix, so that doesn't help with keeping a cool head. i think i drank four gallons of water trying to get this done.

Anyway, I was not able to remove the piece in front of the oil cooler, but loosening it allowed me just enough space to get my hand through the front and feed the wrapping and clamp all the way to the head and tighten the hose clamp. It was a beast for sure and my arms look like I lost the battle, but it's done. Wrapping turned out nice and tight too.

The back is a struggle too, but started just over the oxygen sensor, got the clamp around the pipe just tight enough to hold the wrapping, then slid it up to the head. It's doable with one person, but nice with an extra set of hands. I used a paint stir stick to get the wrapping through to my friend and he fed it back through to me. Once below the oxygen sensor, it got way easier.

Hope this helps someone else trying to take on this project. :)


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Sorry, I only have completed pics. It was tough enough fighting with the wrap as it was. I used Thermo-Tec copper and once I start the engine the copper particles embedded will flow through the fabric and cure the wrapping. It'll likely turn gray. I chose this wrap, because it's super plexible, coating is optional and did not require wetting. I don't think I could have wrapped it as high up, if the wrapping wasn't as flexible. My hands would have hated it more too.

As mentioned above, if you start the wrap in front of the oxygen sensor and get it mostly tight, it will slide up to the head. At that point you will be able to tighten the clamp down, so you can get a tight wrap all the way down. The first three or four twists are not easy and I had to use a mirror to double for gaps. I was using zip ties to hold the wrapping in place to give my hands a break. Zip ties were a life savor for sure.

Hope this helps.
 
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Nice looking job!! I had done mine in smaller sections so I didn't have to stuff as much around the hard spots. In the tight spots I only had a few wraps and used .041 stainless safety wire to hold wrap in place. The safety wire lays flat when twisted and doesn't take up any space like a clamp does.
You'll be happy with the results, much less seat heat and no more hot fuel.
 
Nice looking job!! I had done mine in smaller sections so I didn't have to stuff as much around the hard spots. In the tight spots I only had a few wraps and used .041 stainless safety wire to hold wrap in place. The safety wire lays flat when twisted and doesn't take up any space like a clamp does.
You'll be happy with the results, much less seat heat and no more hot fuel.

Looking forward to the improvement. Also hoping it'll save the vacuumed lines, hoses, wires and components from premature failure, but that'll be tough to prove. :) The Spyder will no doubt benefit from the reduction in heat and run better overall.


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Thanks Guys

I Personally want to say "thank you" to all that posted the how to information on pipe wrapping. At 72 you need all the in's and out's you can get. Now I think I might just try it because here in FL it gets darn hot even when it's not summer time.


update 2013-11-21

i got my pipes wrapped and it made a noticeable difference in two areas.


first notice of improvement was in heat reduction.

second notice of improvement was in noise reduction from the exhaust pipes themselves.

i was going to make it a DIY project but decided to get it done right so took it to my dealer and got a quote of two hours. The tech took the pipes off, warped them, tied all the ends down with stainless mini hose clamps and reinstalled everything taking four hours. The dealer stuck with the quotation and I am pleased as punch with the quality of workmanship. No rattles, leaks or smoke what more could you ask for?
 
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Awesome write-up, reminds me I need to still do this to the wifes Spyder. Where did you get the wrap from, local?

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I was going to have my dealer do it this weekend, but I think I will do it myself as they want to charge a fortune now.

How much improvement did you get on your hot leg?
 
i got mine from the auto parts stpre here in ottawa kansas,they all had it in any size and in big rools.i think mine was 60 dollars,but i have a lot left so i can wrap my new rt whin i get it.
 
E chaise wrapping questions

I have just started to research exhaust wrapping for our RTL 2011.

Bare with me on this one as I am in uncharted territory starting this deal.

Q-1. Where are you finding a source for the w rap?
Q-2. What is the easiest brand to work with?
Q-3. I hear (read here) that 1 inch gives a better finished product. Is that valid or a myth?
Q-4. Is it necessarily easier to do the job with the exhaust system removed, loosened up, or left alone I did a search of previous posts and could find the answers to my questions. If I missed them accept my apologies in advance.

2013.10.02

Updating the project:

It is done as of today I gave up on making it a DIY project due to not being able to convince myself that I had space enough to work in my limited garage space and the heat of the days.

Interesting results have been observed on the ride home from the dealership.

1) It definitely made an improvement in heat at the feet. I think my feet and legs are going to be much happier.

2) My ears and hearing is most definitely happier. It made the bike overall much quieter which is a totally new benefit. Apparently since I had them wrap from the header exhaust outlet to the catalytic converter and from the catalytic converter outlet to the exhaust pipe outlet to the muffler union ocnnection flange.

I never figured that the exhaust system could carry so much noise and wrapping it would knock the noise levels down so much
 
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I have just started to research exhaust wrapping for our RTL 2011.

Bare with me on this one as I am in uncharted territory starting this deal.

Q-1. Where are you finding a source for the w rap?
Q-2. What is the easiest brand to work with?
Q-3. I hear (read here) that 1 inch gives a better finished product. Is that valid or a myth?
Q-4. Is it necessarily easier to do the job with the exhaust system removed, loosened up, or left alalone I did a search of previous posts and could find the answers to my questions. If I missed them accept my apologies in advance.

A-1. Amazon has a pretty good selection and prices.
A-2. I used the 2"x50' Thermo Tec Copper, because it's super soft and easy to work with, is applied dry and doesn't require a seal coating. The DEI Titanium wrap has been pretty popular among many SL members as well.
A-3. The 1" goes around the bends easier, but takes twice as much wrapping and time.
A-4. It's way easier to wrap with exhaust removed, but you have to disassemble half the bike. By then, it's best to send the parts in to be ceramic coated. You'll also need around $50 in gaskets and bolts to reassemble the system. Wrapping in place is a pain. You will get cut up and cuss plenty, but it's doable.
 
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