Exhaust Wrapping - I'm Stuck! Need Advice!!!???

[MidLifeCrisis]

I have removed all tupperware on the left side, except the front headlight/foglight areas and don't see how I'm supposed to remove the pipe to wrap it. Obviously, I have to removed the right side tupperware as well, but my question is, how do I get the long pipe, the one attached to the front cylinder off? There's a bar attached to the frame, which the gas tank is attached to and terminates somewhere in the front of the Spyder. It appears to have other things hanging off of it, but not sure how many. I don't see how the header is removable without the bar out of the way, but maybe I'm missing something and before I go too far, I figured I'd check with you folks.
Also, the four bolts holding the header to the engine, I can get to three very easily, on the back head at least, but the fourth is too close to get a torque wrench on. Maybe with the frame bar removed and an extension it will be easier to access, but figured I'd ask.

Do the plugs to the oxygen sensors just pop off the header, or is there a trick?

Is there supposed to be a spring between the pipe and the cat? The repair manual says there is, but I don't have one.

Thanks all in advance.:bowdown:

 

[Campverdefela]

I don't know for sure but can't the pipes be wrapped in place, starting at the engine, securing the initial turn with the stainless tie?

 

[capt.jim]

I would have them ceramic coated if I went to the trouble to remove the entire exhaust.

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

I don't know for sure but can't the pipes be wrapped in place, starting at the engine, securing the initial turn with the stainless tie?

The kit I have, has a spray to coat them after completion. It has occurred to me I may have picked up the wrong kit. Perhaps one without a spray would have been best!:dontknow:

I would have them ceramic coated if I went to the trouble to remove the entire exhaust.

The cost was going to be pretty high, but If it's going to be as much trouble. It may be the better choice.:sour:

 

[dliszews]

The kit I have, has a spray to coat them after completion. It has occurred to me I may have picked up the wrong kit. Perhaps one without a spray would have been best!:dontknow:



The cost was going to be pretty high, but If it's going to be as much trouble. It may be the better choice.:sour:

If you have a DEI kit, I was under the impression that the header coating(if that's what is in the kit) goes on first. Wraps
have a tendency to retain moisture and cause surface rust. I wrapped mine in place.

 

[hrbeta]

I removed the left side bar, it's a 5 minutes task and you'll be able to completely uninstall and remove the long pipe.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

I removed the left side bar, it's a 5 minutes task and you'll be able to completely uninstall and remove the long pipe.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

So, will I have to remove the tupperwear around the fog lights to access the end of the bar?

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

Okay, so here it is days later and I've still not managed to pull off the headers. I've removed the bar on the left side as suggested and yes the header would come off, provided I could get to it. Do I have to disassemble the whole nose to access the header bolts? I even went out and picked up some really flexible wrapping and still can't get my hand into the front area well enough to hold the wrap, throw on a zip tie, much less tighten the hose clamp. I used to be a pretty good wrencher back in the 80s and worked in a body shop for 4 years, but the Spyder is thoroughly whipping my tail. I'm about to cut my losses, put it back together and be content with riding it when it cools off.

How did you all pull off the heads, without disassembling the bike and those of you who wrapped in place, how did you manage that? I read a second set of hands is required, but with all of the tupperware removed from both sides, there's no way a second set of hands can get in or a second set of eyes even see well enough to wrap anything!

I'm obviously driving off a cliff! This is beyond frustrating. :banghead:

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

I can't believe no one else has had this problem on an RT! Does the air box, nose, instrumentation have to be removed ti access the headers?

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

 

[Grandpa Spyder]

I bought the same stuff, pulled off the covers on left side. Took one look put it back together and took stuff back to Advance for refund. That is how I handled it.

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

I bought the same stuff, pulled off the covers on left side. Took one look put it back together and took stuff back to Advance for refund. That is how I handled it.

Finally! At least a sanity check

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

Project abandoned!!! Not sure if the directions I was receiving were from GS owners, which may be way less complicated to access. Four days of baking in the garage was enough.:banghead:
The other possibility is the 2011's and up RT's must have a button that gives the owner an exploded view, much like a transformer. :yikes:

Edit: 7 of the 11 posts on this thread are mine. Feelin' kinda lonely!

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

Since you already have all the bodywork removed what about taking it down to the dealer and have them remove the pipes. If you have removed as much as possible so the only thing left is to remove the pipes the cost shouldn't be too bad. Just my two cents.

If I had a trailer and extra time that would have been an option. I'm starting a kitchen remodel project and Spyder parts were blocking access to my tools. I allotted a full weekend to a seemingly simple project and wasted four days trying to figure out how everyone else took the pipes off without removing everything from around them, including the gas tank or wrapped the pipes in place. I have pretty small hands and still couldn't pull the wrapping up through the crevices between the tank, belt and support bars with enough force to get a tight fit. Pull through yes, leverage, no and when I did pull it through, I couldn't see anything well enough to know if I had the 1/4 inch overlap required. It just so happens, the oxygen sensor is in the tightest spot with the least amount of visibility and since going around it requires a little extra patience and care, there was just no way to apply it correctly. If only that piece was moved up or down the pipe and inch, things could have been different. One could at least minimally see well enough to apply the wrap properly. The long pipe does seem wrappable, but it will be a fight around the belt. Once beyond the oxygen sensor, it would take creativity to get it wrapped tight and keeping it in place long enough to clamp down. I think I had this part figured out, but never got to apply it.

Something...a lot more had to come off, besides the left support bar and I had no way of confirming what. If I could have left the Spyder in pieces for a while longer, I may have just started dismantling it. If I was going to take it that far, it was time to add a trailer hitch harness, GPS harness, change out the front speakers (again), wire up some accessory plugs and LEDs...you know, make it worth disassembling the bike and next time, in my main garage, not the cramped one. Oh yeah and in the winter, when my garage isn't 115.

The only reason why I came back and reposted, in what seemed to be a one way conversation, is to maybe help the next SL, who decides this is a quick three hour job on an RT. I won't deny there are folks on this site way more talented and capable than me. There is a possibility I was simply missing something, but Unless someone else can verify the RT was a piece of cake to wrap, or remove the pipes by simply taking one thing more thing off, then it's a pretty big and time consuming job, and certainly one that would require better preparedness.

I've read on this site, BRP repositioned the radiator on the RT to allow for more fresh air to mix with the vented air. That in itself may be difference enough between the two models, limiting access to the pipes on the RT:dontknow: Riding position is also different on the two bikes and no provisions for an air pump, etc on the rear, so the tank is likely a different shape, between the two as well. I know, I've read RT owners have wrapped or coated their pipes. Was just hoping some of them would have chimed in and pointed me in the right direction. I just can't see being the only one having this much trouble figuring out how to get to the pipes on an RT. I may have only been 5 more minutes away from gaining access. I just didn't know what needed to come off next. It all looked like it needed to come off. That was the problem from what I could see.:yikes:

 

[timeless]

Exhaust Wrapping - I'm Stuck! Need Advice!!!???

If I had a trailer and extra time that would have been an option. I'm starting a kitchen remodel project and Spyder parts were blocking access to my tools. I allotted a full weekend to a seemingly simple project and wasted four days trying to figure out how everyone else took the pipes off without removing everything from around them, including the gas tank or wrapped the pipes in place. I have pretty small hands and still couldn't pull the wrapping up through the crevices between the tank, belt and support bars with enough force to get a tight fit. Pull through yes, leverage, no and when I did pull it through, I couldn't see anything well enough to know if I had the 1/4 inch overlap required. It just so happens, the oxygen sensor is in the tightest spot with the least amount of visibility and since going around it requires a little extra patience and care, there was just no way to apply it correctly. If only that piece was moved up or down the pipe and inch, things could have been different. One could at least minimally see well enough to apply the wrap properly. The long pipe does seem wrappable, but it will be a fight around the belt. Once beyond the oxygen sensor, it would take creativity to get it wrapped tight and keeping it in place long enough to clamp down. I think I had this part figured out, but never got to apply it.

Something...a lot more had to come off, besides the left support bar and I had no way of confirming what. If I could have left the Spyder in pieces for a while longer, I may have just started dismantling it. If I was going to take it that far, it was time to add a trailer hitch harness, GPS harness, change out the front speakers (again), wire up some accessory plugs and LEDs...you know, make it worth disassembling the bike and next time, in my main garage, not the cramped one. Oh yeah and in the winter, when my garage isn't 115.

The only reason why I came back and reposted, in what seemed to be a one way conversation, is to maybe help the next SL, who decides this is a quick three hour job on an RT. I won't deny there are folks on this site way more talented and capable than me. There is a possibility I was simply missing something, but Unless someone else can verify the RT was a piece of cake to wrap, or remove the pipes by simply taking one thing more thing off, then it's a pretty big and time consuming job, and certainly one that would require better preparedness.

I've read on this site, BRP repositioned the radiator on the RT to allow for more fresh air to mix with the vented air. That in itself may be difference enough between the two models, limiting access to the pipes on the RT:dontknow: Riding position is also different on the two bikes and no provisions for an air pump, etc on the rear, so the tank is likely a different shape, between the two as well. I know, I've read RT owners have wrapped or coated their pipes. Was just hoping some of them would have chimed in and pointed me in the right direction. I just can't see being the only one having this much trouble figuring out how to get to the pipes on an RT. I may have only been 5 more minutes away from gaining access. I just didn't know what needed to come off next. It all looked like it needed to come off. That was the problem from what I could see.:yikes:

I have a 2010 RT SE5 PE#801, I took the side tupper ware off and wrapped everything in place including the catalytic converter. It wasn't easy but if you go slow and take your time you can get er done!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[flybuddy]

I have a 2010 RT SE5 PE#801, I took the side tupper ware off and wrapped everything in place including the catalytic converter. It wasn't easy but if you go slow and take your time you can get er done!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm going to wrap next time i have covers off. Agree, i looked it over as i had each side off individually and it looks doable and somewhat easier than other wraps i've done. Curious on one thing..You wrapped the cat, how much riding have you done with it wrapped and have you had any issues? I've always been under the impression you couldn't wrap a cat due to heat buildup. It would be great if it could be done as that's the biggest heat generator we have.

 

[gordo2050]

What about...

Removing the CAT? Maybe hollow out the CAT

Should reduce the heat build up, without creating any major issues. Leave the muffler on and there may not be a need for air/fuel adjust....

Just a thought, or maybe a back door way of looking for advise about doing this MOD

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

I have a 2010 RT SE5 PE#801, I took the side tupper ware off and wrapped everything in place including the catalytic converter. It wasn't easy but if you go slow and take your time you can get er done!!!!!!!!!!!

Now that I've had a couple of days to ponder this, I'm pretty sure I'll try it again. Only this time, I'll raise up the Spyder, so I'm not so hunched over, use my full size garage, where there's tons more space and light (wasn't an option this time, because it's not insulated and at least 20 degrees hotter than where I attempted the wrap). Better yet, try it when the heat and humidity aren't an issue. I only tried it, because I thought I could start it, remove the pipes, bring them in where I could wrap them in the air conditioned house (a serious red neck moment) and get done in short order. It just didn't turn out to be that on an RT. It requires way more time and finesse...

...by the way, I had to resolve this for myself and went down to the dealer and took a close look at the RS. It has way more room to get around the pipes than an RT. This was the first time I really studied and RS. No need to take mirrors off and it looks to be designed to take the panels off on the road and without tools. A huge plus and time saver.

Anyway, just trying to say this was going to be a way longer than a three hour job on an RT, so comfort and proper work conditions will definitely improve success. I should have figured this part out after having the panels off like Grandpa Spyder, but....some of us...well, nuff said.

 

[flybuddy]

Removing the CAT? Maybe hollow out the CAT

Should reduce the heat build up, without creating any major issues. Leave the muffler on and there may not be a need for air/fuel adjust....

Just a thought, or maybe a back door way of looking for advise about doing this MOD

You'd need a well built Y pipe to replace the cat if removed and given its shape and dual pipes it'd really tough to hollow out.

 

[timeless]

Wrapping the cat too

I'm going to wrap next time i have covers off. Agree, i looked it over as i had each side off individually and it looks doable and somewhat easier than other wraps i've done. Curious on one thing..You wrapped the cat, how much riding have you done with it wrapped and have you had any issues? I've always been under the impression you couldn't wrap a cat due to heat buildup. It would be great if it could be done as that's the biggest heat generator we have.

I have about a 1000 miles on it since I wrapped the cat. I did that last & wrapped in both directions. I used stainless steel tie wire to help hold it all in place.

I have not had any issues, I also have the spyderpops blank off in place, as well as the catalytic shields & both bottom panels removed.

We seem to run cooler overall now & that is riding in 95 degree heat!!!!!!!!!!!

When you do yours, wrap from the back forward, this eliminates a bunch of leading edges that can catch the wind while riding.

 

[timeless]

Exhaust Wrapping - I'm Stuck! Need Advice!!!???

Now that I've had a couple of days to ponder this, I'm pretty sure I'll try it again. Only this time, I'll raise up the Spyder, so I'm not so hunched over, use my full size garage, where there's tons more space and light (wasn't an option this time, because it's not insulated and at least 20 degrees hotter than where I attempted the wrap). Better yet, try it when the heat and humidity aren't an issue. I only tried it, because I thought I could start it, remove the pipes, bring them in where I could wrap them in the air conditioned house (a serious red neck moment) and get done in short order. It just didn't turn out to be that on an RT. It requires way more time and finesse...

...by the way, I had to resolve this for myself and went down to the dealer and took a close look at the RS. It has way more room to get around the pipes than an RT. This was the first time I really studied and RS. No need to take mirrors off and it looks to be designed to take the panels off on the road and without tools. A huge plus and time saver.

Anyway, just trying to say this was going to be a way longer than a three hour job on an RT, so comfort and proper work conditions will definitely improve success. I should have figured this part out after having the panels off like Grandpa Spyder, but....some of us...well, nuff said.

I had mine about 18 inches off the floor on good sturdy jack stands, definitely makes a huge difference.