evap canister removal

[quasi]

removed the canister from my 2012 rts today. any reason not to use the existing vent hose that exits through the crossmember area? left the Spyder apart and will be installing the air scoops this week providing local dealer has the kit in stock. also picked up a new stant gas cap. hoping the air scoops will allow things to cool down a touch!

 

[Chupaca]

Try this..

a little searching you should be able to find the canisteroscopy which gave you all the parts needed to do a great replacement job....:thumbup:

 

[quasi]

a little searching you should be able to find the canisteroscopy which gave you all the parts needed to do a great replacement job....:thumbup:

yeah, read a bunch of threads on the subject. already removed the canister, plugged the purge valve line, and installed the steel inline filter. have the line to exit out the front of the bike near the radiator, but was just curious if the was any reason the existing vent hose that was cut off the canister couldn't be used instead of running the hose out the front of the bike.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I used it.

 

[PistonBlown]

yeah, read a bunch of threads on the subject. already removed the canister, plugged the purge valve line, and installed the steel inline filter. have the line to exit out the front of the bike near the radiator, but was just curious if the was any reason the existing vent hose that was cut off the canister couldn't be used instead of running the hose out the front of the bike.

The existing hose may be fine depending on where your routing it and if you cut the pipes off the canister.

In my case I got all the stuff I needed before I started and so got the hose as a 'just in case' - It didn't cost much and I'm quite a distance from the hardware shop.

The main thing is that the pipe pokes out far enough and has enough slack in it so there is no chance of it pulling back into the engine bay.

 

[Koop]

Why do you want to eliminate the carbon canister from the fuel vent? This canister absorbs hydrocarbons from the vented fuel tank. Periodically, the purge valve opens and the hydrocarbons are pulled into the intake system and burned in the combustion chamber. It's a simple system that reduces pollution and operating properly doesn't harm performance.

 

[PistonBlown]

Why do you want to eliminate the carbon canister from the fuel vent? This canister absorbs hydrocarbons from the vented fuel tank. Periodically, the purge valve opens and the hydrocarbons are pulled into the intake system and burned in the combustion chamber. It's a simple system that reduces pollution and operating properly doesn't harm performance.

Because the system on the Spyder doesn't always work properly, at least not on older 998 models.

Common problem is petrol from the tank overflowing into the canister. This causes a strong petrol smell which is particularly noticeable after a ride. Once this starts it doesn't seem to sort itself out. Eventually this can cause the Canister/purge value to fail putting the Spyder into limp home mode - only way to get it working again is a new canister or the canisterectomy.

The common fixes for the petrol smell is the Canisterectomy and Stant gas cap. Done both on my 2011 RS.

 

[Koop]

Because the system on the Spyder doesn't always work properly, at least not on older 998 models.

Common problem is petrol from the tank overflowing into the canister. This causes a strong petrol smell which is particularly noticeable after a ride. Once this starts it doesn't seem to sort itself out. Eventually this can cause the Canister/purge value to fail putting the Spyder into limp home mode - only way to get it working again is a new canister or the canisterectomy.

The common fixes for the petrol smell is the Canisterectomy and Stant gas cap. Done both on my 2011 RS.

Thanks for the explanation. Overflow into the evap canister is usually caused by overfilling the fuel tank. I'm as guilty as the next guy of trying to squeeze the last little bit of fuel into the tank. However, if you do this on a hot day and park the Spyder within a few miles of riding, the fuel in the tank will heat and expand - pushing liquid fuel into the canister. Evap canisters are activated carbon that are intended to deal with vapor - not liquid fuel. Fuel from the station pump comes from an underground storage tank and will be less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit. A hot day will create thermal expansion and we have a problem.

 

[quasi]

went ahead and used a new hose for the vent. clamped it to the steel filter, looped the hose and then ran it out in front of the radiator. also installed a set of air scoops as used on the 2013 rt recall. acoustical panels are in the trash. bound to help.

 

[quasi]

went ahead and used a new hose for the vent. clamped it to the steel filter, looped the hose and then ran it out in front of the radiator. also installed a set of air scoops as used on the 2013 rt recall. acoustical panels are in the trash. bound to help.

seems to be more fumes since the canisterectomy for some reason.

had a bit of a scare yesterday on my way to my spyder dealer. I had inadvertently left the old vent hose laying in the engine bay and it was against one of the pipes. needless to say we hopped off the bike in record time. was a little smokie! figured I had left a zip tie in there when I was snipping them off. doesn't take much plastic to melt to make the smoke roll.

 

[SPYD3R]

MAYBE


MAYBE THIS WILL HELP....
doesn't eliminate, but it does help considerably....
good luck
SPYD3R

 

[quasi]

View attachment 132900
MAYBE THIS WILL HELP....
doesn't eliminate, but it does help considerably....
good luck
SPYD3R

thanks!

 

[SPYD3R]

#26

thanks!

notice that the line from the gas tank, #26 is removed from the top/center position and then i inserted a 2" piece of 1/4" diameter copper tubing (coupler) to line #26... now add more fuel line to the coupler and another piece to the top/center position of the canister... run both these lines down below the canister joining them with a 'T' and then add a piece of tubing to the bottom and run it down under the chassic of your bike....
good luck...
SPYD3R

 

[KX5062]

Thanks for the explanation. Overflow into the evap canister is usually caused by overfilling the fuel tank. I'm as guilty as the next guy of trying to squeeze the last little bit of fuel into the tank. However, if you do this on a hot day and park the Spyder within a few miles of riding, the fuel in the tank will heat and expand - pushing liquid fuel into the canister. Evap canisters are activated carbon that are intended to deal with vapor - not liquid fuel. Fuel from the station pump comes from an underground storage tank and will be less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit. A hot day will create thermal expansion and we have a problem.

Also, Spyders with the 998 motor have been known to get hot enough to boil the petrol/gas in the tank on hot summer days. This is because of the rear cylinder exhaust pipe routing and lack of proper insulation on the tank. This has nothing to do with how much or how little fuel is in the tank. It just gets too hot.

My 08 GS did this, which lead me to remove the evap canister. Once I did this the bike ran much better. Once that charcoal gets saturated with fuel, it will never again work properly. They are designed for vapors only.

 

[mcalva]

View attachment 132900
MAYBE THIS WILL HELP....
doesn't eliminate, but it does help considerably....
good luck
SPYD3R

Have I to assume that the first and third tubes (left & rigth) stay in place. It isn't?
Thank you.

 

[Fat Baxter]

I did a canisterectomy on my '99 BMW RT. The canister was up under the seat, higher than the engine itself, and there was the remote chance that an internal seal would fail, allowing charcoal particles to migrate downwards through the hoses into the fuel injectors. It happened to some BMW owners, and was an expensive repair. So, from an abundance of caution, I had it done. What the heck -- other riders had it done, so it would be no big deal, right?

I regretted it. After every ride, the garage was filled with the smell of gas. My wife pitched a fit. As a result, after every ride, I had to leave the bike outside for a bit, until it cooled off.

seems to be more fumes since the canisterectomy for some reason.

Yep. The canister is there for a reason.

 

[quasi]

I did a canisterectomy on my '99 BMW RT. The canister was up under the seat, higher than the engine itself, and there was the remote chance that an internal seal would fail, allowing charcoal particles to migrate downwards through the hoses into the fuel injectors. It happened to some BMW owners, and was an expensive repair. So, from an abundance of caution, I had it done. What the heck -- other riders had it done, so it would be no big deal, right?

I regretted it. After every ride, the garage was filled with the smell of gas. My wife pitched a fit. As a result, after every ride, I had to leave the bike outside for a bit, until it cooled off.




Yep. The canister is there for a reason.

yepper, I re-installed mine not long after removing it for that very reason.

 

[Rcobbley]

Have I to assume that the first and third tubes (left & rigth) stay in place. It isn't?
Thank you.

Hi, I'm looking at your drawing to bypass the evap canister... did you leave the purge valve line and the overflow line connected?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi, I'm looking at your drawing to bypass the evap canister... did you leave the purge valve line and the overflow line connected?

Look in my Albums ... for how I re-routed my gas to cannister line .... NO more Fumes .... No gas in the cannister ..... good luck ... Mike :thumbup: