Hopefully someone with some in-depth Spyder may be able to have a quick fix for my current problem or at least be able to steer me in the right direction. My 2014 RTL has been for the last 2 weeks throwing a P1328 error code along with the check engine light, I've read and re read the workshop manual several times and know its the "knock sensor 1 positive line" I'm left scratching my head as to what could have started this thinking it may have been the installation of the new "pedal box" but uninstalling that has made no differenced and what I'm finding weird is how random the fault occurs and clears its self. Like the other day going up to the local shop it through the error at the first set of lights but cleared its self by reaching the seconds lights, today riding to my Dr appointment it was fine until pulling into the carpark, then after my appointment cleared its self with in 100 meters prior top getting on the highway home then decided to come on again as I'm pulling in my driveway. Out of morbid curiosity I've called the dealership I've bought it from and to my amazement they have the knock sensor in stock. I just want as much input or advice as possible before I run out and buy a part I may or may not need. searching the net has not given me too many answers thus far...I do exactly what is says in the manual how to test it after clearing the fault with BUDS, bud the fault may come back the next day or later that day. No loss of power so its not retarding my timing I'm clueless....
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Error P1328 and check engine light
- Thread starter Marc
- Start date
Bfromla
Well-known member
Possibly pedal box maybe left some residual effects, even after removal
(reflash required):dontknow: or if when tapped into wires maybe chance of small short somewhere; not enough to do much but trip code. CAN-Bus sensitive to anything out of norm :sour: Have you tried disconnect battery giving time for computer to reset?(take notes of setting& odometer info first) some suggest touching terminal leads together bleed out capacitors. Honestly not sure advisable or not- some electronics have internal back up batteries. Just a thought
(reflash required):dontknow: or if when tapped into wires maybe chance of small short somewhere; not enough to do much but trip code. CAN-Bus sensitive to anything out of norm :sour: Have you tried disconnect battery giving time for computer to reset?(take notes of setting& odometer info first) some suggest touching terminal leads together bleed out capacitors. Honestly not sure advisable or not- some electronics have internal back up batteries. Just a thought
Pedal box was plug and play, even left battery disconnected most of yesterday hoping might clear things. Have been educated today the difference between Australian and over seas fuel ratings so Canada 91 is our 95, am going to see iff over the weekend putting our 98 premium back in if that resolves it as I did put 91 in a week or two ago on an off pension week...
You could talk to Jase at ECU Xtreme (they're on the Gold Coast & can be reached via 'ECU Xtreme' on faceache or email [email protected]
) When it comes to ECU's, especially CanAm ECU's, he's a very knowledgeable bloke, one of the best at what he does, so at the very least he should be able to give you some idea of what to look for that might be causing your problems.... but you could do a whole lot worse than getting an ECU Upgrade that'd negate the need for a Pedal box or any similar piggy-back or add-on enhancement, AND if you do that you can get a whole lot more power for the fun stuff & maybe even get better fuel economy when you're cruising too! 
hyea: Good Luck! :cheers:
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Yo Marc. Unless you can definitely correlate it to the timing of the pedal box install, then most of the time this is just a bad sensor. That code just means that the signal from the sensor is out of spec hi/lo. In rare cases it could be caused by actual, severe detonation, but you weren't driving under those conditions. Sometimes it can be caused by the sensor mounting bolt becoming loose. But mostly, it's a failed or damaged sensor, dirty harness plug or some other wiring damage. For example, did you move around any wiring for the pedal box install and could there now be chafing or melting on something hot. All plugs fully plugged in? And your issue is intermittent, so the resistance check in the manual probably won't yield any answer. So, check your wiring, the plug, see if it's loose or cracked. Otherwise, I'd feel comfortable replacing the sensor. All sensors fail. The pedal box does not modify your ECM firmware, so your ECM does NOT need reflashed.
BertRemington
New member
Marc -- following up on Snowbelt's suggestion, also examine the connectors for full pin insertion. Especially the AMP SuperSeal connectors which are susceptible to pin retraction if care isn't used when coupling the connectors together.
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