engine surges in 1st or rev on start up

[bikerjays]

2015 rts automatic. first start up of the day when bike put in rev or 1st and throttle added the the bike surges initially for the first few 100 feet. 42K miles on the bike and fuel filter has been changed. Any suggestions?

 

[Ex-Rocket]

Did you have your transmission filter replaced at 28,000 miles?

 

[PinkRosePetal]

2015 rts automatic. first start up of the day when bike put in rev or 1st and throttle added the the bike surges initially for the first few 100 feet. 42K miles on the bike and fuel filter has been changed. Any suggestions?

It's normal for many of us. If it's not been happening to you so far, you've been lucky. If you manage to get it fixed, we'd like to know how!

:thumbup:

 

[happyspyder2039]

2015 rts automatic. first start up of the day when bike put in rev or 1st and throttle added the the bike surges initially for the first few 100 feet. 42K miles on the bike and fuel filter has been changed. Any suggestions?

Try adding fuel additive like star-tron or sea foam.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Have you tried changing the rubbery vacuum hoses over to silicone hoses, and spending more time warming the Spyder up before ryding off?! :dontknow:

Not sure if it'll fix it or not, but it can't hurt to give both of those a try! :thumbup:

 

[h0gr1der]

My 2018 RTL SE6 does exactly the same thing. It quits completely as soon as any warmth gets the oil thinned out. It has to do with the clutch release not working smoothly due to cold oil (so they said). The surging (on mine) is caused not by a throttle/fuel issue, but by the clutch grabbing and releasing causing the RPM's to fluctuate. When parking I back my Spyder up a ramp into a narrow slot in the garage, and it is a nightmare with the cold engine. If I have to put it away cold I will usually allow it to idle for 5-10 minutes just because it surges so bad and may cause me to crash. A little bit of warmth and all is well again. Does this sound like your problem?

 

[Highwayman2013]

My 2018 RTL SE6 does exactly the same thing. It quits completely as soon as any warmth gets the oil thinned out. It has to do with the clutch release not working smoothly due to cold oil (so they said). The surging (on mine) is caused not by a throttle/fuel issue, but by the clutch grabbing and releasing causing the RPM's to fluctuate. When parking I back my Spyder up a ramp into a narrow slot in the garage, and it is a nightmare with the cold engine. If I have to put it away cold I will usually allow it to idle for 5-10 minutes just because it surges so bad and may cause me to crash. A little bit of warmth and all is well again. Does this sound like your problem?

That's how our 2016 F3L acts when it's cold. Once it's a little warm it goes away. I don't consider it a problem.

 

[bodymanpainter]

My 2016 F3T has done this since the first day and 45,000 miles later no problems at all, so I just
think it's normal. After it gets warmed up it's gone.

Toby

 

[PMK]

Have you tried changing the rubbery vacuum hoses over to silicone hoses, and spending more time warming the Spyder up before ryding off?! :dontknow:

Not sure if it'll fix it or not, but it can't hurt to give both of those a try! :thumbup:

Warming up makes sense, 1330 engines do not have the hoses you mentioned.

 

[BajaRon]

As everyone has mentioned. It is the computer (not doing such a good job), compensating for a cold engine with a richer fuel mixture. I guess, since this is a short period transition. BRP didn't put a lot of effort into this cycle. Another reason it's a very good idea to start your Spyder, let it idle for 30 seconds or so to get oil circulating everywhere, then ride easy until coolant temps come up. You engine will last longer, your oil will run cleaner, and you will be much happier!

 

[h0gr1der]

One other item I've read on this condition is to accelerate more aggressively during this and it will minimize the surging. I do this and it helps, a firm acceleration makes the clutch engage more completely at higher RPM's.

 

[bikerjays]

yes, the filter was replaced at 30k miles

 

[bikerjays]

I think you may be correct about the clutch. I let the bike warm up for about 30 sec but this does not seem to help. I will investigate how to increase the clutch pressure.

 

[h0gr1der]

I think you may be correct about the clutch. I let the bike warm up for about 30 sec but this does not seem to help. I will investigate how to increase the clutch pressure.

As far as I was told there is no adjustment. The whole shooting match is a computer controlled electro-hydraulic circuit. There may be some tune-ability in the programming, but the shop said it couldn't or wouldn't be adjusted. Let us know if you find out anything.

 

[Jetfixer]

As far as I was told there is no adjustment. The whole shooting match is a computer controlled electro-hydraulic circuit. There may be some tune-ability in the programming, but the shop said it couldn't or wouldn't be adjusted. Let us know if you find out anything.

Have a friend with BUDS hook it up.