I have a 2008 SE5. It started with the emergency break not catching while on a slope, but after my large brute of a husband put his heart and soul into trying to stop the rolling machine on our sloped driveway, now it doesn't work at all. Even if it catches, it still rolls. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, has there been a recall?
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Emergency Break Not Working
- Thread starter Buttercup
- Start date
Firefly
Active member
Yup--- been a fairly common problem that your dealer can fix.
FYI --- it's a parking brake....:thumbup:
groundeffect
Registered User
Sounds like just an adjustment is required, which is common as the rear brake wears down with use.
Yep that's the parking brake.
This may help, but the dealer could adjust also, if you like.
Hope that helps.
cheers.
bone crusher
Alignment Specialist
GE,
that video is no help as usually you need the 'bigger' job..how about a video about how to do the bigger procedure? I can't use my parking brake right now..thing sticks and won't release...argh!
SpyderWolf
New member
I was able to adjust mine using the info in the video, and did not have to go to the bigger job. Of course there is a good chance mine was not as bad as many others have been. However, I did learn a few things while doing the adjustment.
1) Make sure the Spyder is on a level surface, as even if you think it might be you will surely find out once you start working on it and it wants to roll away on its own. :yikes: I was on a concrete slab I thought was flat, luckily, just laying my leg behind the rear wheel was enough to keep it from getting away.
2) If you move the nut closest to the front of the Spyder towards the Spyder, you are loosening the parking brake. When sufficiently loosened, you can step on the pedal all day long and it will not engage. You will not hear any clicks at that point either.
3) Make sure you are only moving the nuts for the cable adjustment, and not the top of the armature that the cable hooks into. Once it is loosened up, you can actually press the top towards the nuts which is not what you want to do.
4) Test, adjust, test, adjust, and then test it some more. It took me one rather large adjustment and then several smaller ones to get it to where I felt good about it.
5) Use some type of lubricating spray on the springs. I used a silicon based lube, and that made a world of difference with getting the brake to release itself.
6) It helped to have my wife's Spyder to look at, as her brake worked well and it gave me a guide as to how far in I should move mine at first.
I am now close to the farthest back that you can adjust the brake, but still have a little room left for adjustment. I am sure the next time it is going to require the removal of the large nut and adjusting the mechanism itself.
With all that being said, your dealer should be able to do it for you at your next service without any problems if you want them to.
1) Make sure the Spyder is on a level surface, as even if you think it might be you will surely find out once you start working on it and it wants to roll away on its own. :yikes: I was on a concrete slab I thought was flat, luckily, just laying my leg behind the rear wheel was enough to keep it from getting away.
2) If you move the nut closest to the front of the Spyder towards the Spyder, you are loosening the parking brake. When sufficiently loosened, you can step on the pedal all day long and it will not engage. You will not hear any clicks at that point either.
3) Make sure you are only moving the nuts for the cable adjustment, and not the top of the armature that the cable hooks into. Once it is loosened up, you can actually press the top towards the nuts which is not what you want to do.
4) Test, adjust, test, adjust, and then test it some more. It took me one rather large adjustment and then several smaller ones to get it to where I felt good about it.
5) Use some type of lubricating spray on the springs. I used a silicon based lube, and that made a world of difference with getting the brake to release itself.
6) It helped to have my wife's Spyder to look at, as her brake worked well and it gave me a guide as to how far in I should move mine at first.
I am now close to the farthest back that you can adjust the brake, but still have a little room left for adjustment. I am sure the next time it is going to require the removal of the large nut and adjusting the mechanism itself.
With all that being said, your dealer should be able to do it for you at your next service without any problems if you want them to.
SpyderGirl
New member
Within the first 12,000 miles mine was in the dealer three times for the same thing. It's not worked really at all since the day I bought my Spyder. I gave up on it. It catches a little. I just don't park on slopes, including my driveway, if I can avoid it. I never know when it'll just give out completely,
There's probably nothing wrong with it. It just needs to be adjusted periodically as the rear pads wear. I've adjusted mine at least 3 times in 7000 miles.
bone crusher
Alignment Specialist
The minor adjustment is easy...the tougher one, I won't try...I'll either get some help from Donk, if I can ever get over there, or will wait for my next service in a month or two...once the major correction is done, I'm sure the minor one will help for some time (so I hope!)
It's an easy fix, Your dealer should able to do it in less than ten minutes.
Like the video shows. 12mm and 16 mm wrench, Loosen the cable two 12mm nuts, Take off the 16mm nut, pull the arm off that was held by the 16mm nut, put it back<< < <<<< a notch or two on the spine.Adjust cable so two cliks stops it from rolling. But always remember park in gear never trust the parking brake! Hope this helps you out.
asmdjackal
New member
I have found that little dry film lube (or WD40 if you dont have any dry) on the mechanical brake assembly by the pedal can help out ALOT with the sticking issues
bone crusher
Alignment Specialist
I will try that...any pics of specific areas to address? on the right side of the bike, I moved the threads back and forth (right off the rear tire), and whether loosening or tightening, it didn't seem to do too much...I figured the line had to be cut and shortened, but what do I know? If you have good locations to lube, and that does it, all the better...
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
:agree:
The entire mechanism behind & under your left footpeg bracket, where the parking brake pedal attaches, is what you have to clean and lube. There is a ratchet mechanism there, plus the pedal return spring. You never cut and shorten the cable...just reposition the arm on the rear caliper to grab quicker. This will get the cable to a normal tension...but leave more cable exposed outside the sheath. When you run out of adjustment, you need new brake pads. At that time the arm has to be repositioned to its original spot.
You might want to call ahead to make sure they have the kit in stock.Thanks so much! I have a maintenance appointment scheduled in a few days...and its good that I have the proper term so I can give blondes a good name.
bone crusher
Alignment Specialist
I will try this later in the week/weekend...will report back...
bone crusher
Alignment Specialist
You might also have the defective original plate...meaning, there is a new piece that should be installed at your dealer to fix this problem. Mine started to act up and the only way to fix it was to replace the defective part...basically, the shape of the teeth creates an issue and you can get it replaced with a new plate that works perfectly!
Your problem will likely happen again and again as the part is defective...talk to your dealer...they can hook you up...
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