Elka's purchased and Installed today "WOW"

[Bad Dog6]

Elka's arrived yesterday afternoon so I spent the evening reading up on them and searching the site for tips. Got up at 6 am this morning and went to the shop ( Supposed to be over 100 deg. F today so wanted to work while it was still cool.)

Jacked up the RT under the front till the wheels where about 1/2 in. off the ground. Started on the Right side as everyone said the left was a bugger. Removed both nuts and then the bottom bolt. Jacked the bike up till the bottom of the shock was clear of the mount then pulled the top bolt. Jacked the bike a little higher to facilitate removing the shock. Slid the Elka into place and started the top bolt and put the nut on loosely. lowered the jack while, at the same time, guiding the lower shock mount into position. Installed the bolt and nut and torqued both upper and lower to 35 ft. lbs. (I am an old Aircraft Mechanic so Torque is a habit for me.)

The left side was a little different and much easier than the right side for one reason. I read on the site that those who installed Elkas, if they had to do it over again, they would cut a 3/8's notch in the air tube directly across from the head of the top Shock mount bolt. ( it is easy to find where to cut. After removing the bottom nut and bolt and the top nut slide the top mount bolt out and the bolt head will hit the spot that you need to notch.) After notching the air tube and removing the top mount bolt and shock, I slide the Elka into place and installed the top bolt and nut and lowered the bike till the bottom hole was in alignment and installed the bottom bolt and nut and torqued both to 35 ft lbs. DONE. The whole job took about 2 hours start to finish. Note NO Tupperware removed.

Took the Spyder on a 10 mile test ride on a twisty road and WOW. Easily added 20 mph to all the corners and was rock steady on the straight. A different bike. never once felt I was on the edge of "Nannyville"

I purchased the Shocks from Cowtown but did not talk to Len. The person I talked to didn't ask any questions about weight just asked my percent of 2 up riding. The shocks came set to 21 clicks. I weigh 205 and the wife about 130lbs. Does 21 clicks sound correct for that combination? Also, I have the stage 1 + I think and there is a schrader valve on the top of the shock. I assume that is for Nitrogen and is not a customer function to mess with. The instructions I received make no mention of the valve. Final question. When they say the shock is set at "21 clicks" When you make that adjustment do you actually feel a click OR?

Anyway, overall I am a very happy camper. Thanks to all the trail blazers here on Spyder Lovers and to Cowtown. :yes::yes:

 

[Bad Dog6]

Another ELKA Install TIP IMPORTANT

I

Elka's arrived yesterday afternoon so I spent the evening reading up on them and searching the site for tips. Got up at 6 am this morning and went to the shop ( Supposed to be over 100 deg. F today so wanted to work while it was still cool.)

Jacked up the RT under the front till the wheels where about 1/2 in. off the ground. Started on the Right side as everyone said the left was a bugger. Removed both nuts and then the bottom bolt. Jacked the bike up till the bottom of the shock was clear of the mount then pulled the top bolt. Jacked the bike a little higher to facilitate removing the shock. Slid the Elka into place and started the top bolt and put the nut on loosely. lowered the jack while, at the same time, guiding the lower shock mount into position. Installed the bolt and nut and torqued both upper and lower to 35 ft. lbs. (I am an old Aircraft Mechanic so Torque is a habit for me.)

The left side was a little different and much easier than the right side for one reason. I read on the site that those who installed Elkas, if they had to do it over again, they would cut a 3/8's notch in the air tube directly across from the head of the top Shock mount bolt. ( it is easy to find where to cut. After removing the bottom nut and bolt and the top nut slide the top mount bolt out and the bolt head will hit the spot that you need to notch.) After notching the air tube and removing the top mount bolt and shock, I slide the Elka into place and installed the top bolt and nut and lowered the bike till the bottom hole was in alignment and installed the bottom bolt and nut and torqued both to 35 ft lbs. DONE. The whole job took about 2 hours start to finish. Note NO Tupperware removed.


















Took the Spyder on a 10 mile test ride on a twisty road and WOW. Easily added 20 mph to all the corners and was rock steady on the straight. A different bike. never once felt I was on the edge of "Nannyville"

I purchased the Shocks from Cowtown but did not talk to Len. The person I talked to didn't ask any questions about weight just asked my percent of 2 up riding. The shocks came set to 21 clicks. I weigh 205 and the wife about 130lbs. Does 21 clicks sound correct for that combination? Also, I have the stage 1 + I think and there is a schrader valve on the top of the shock. I assume that is for Nitrogen and is not a customer function to mess with. The instructions I received make no mention of the valve. Final question. When they say the shock is set at "21 clicks" When you make that adjustment do you actually feel a click OR?

Anyway, overall I am a very happy camper. Thanks to all the trail blazers here on Spyder Lovers and to Cowtown. :yes::yes:

I wish I had talked to Len tat Cowtown before I installed my Shocks. When doing the installation you will notice the top shock mount bolt is installed back to front. I was under the impression that this had to do with possible interference of the bolt with other items i.e. wires, frame etc. This is a problem with the left mount bolt as it hits the air inlet tube when removing the bolt. I notched the tube to facilitate installation.

Turns out that installing the bolt front to back is a lot easier and has nothing to do with interference. Seems that when the spiders come down the assembly line they have no frunk on them so by putting the bolt in back to front they can get an impact gun on the nut easier. who woulda thunk it?? Learn something every day:banghead:

 

[cjackg]

....Final question. When they say the shock is set at "21 clicks" When you make that adjustment do you actually feel a click OR?

Assuming you are talking about the Rebound adjustment wheel at the base, you should feel a distinct "click" turning it either way. but, "21 clicks" from which direction? Elka offers some general guidance as to how to go about adjusting the rebound but I think most owners are satisfied with the settings as delivered.

You can also adjust the Pre-Load by turning the collar at the top of the shock if you want a stiffer or softer ride. One or two complete revolutions in either direction can make pronounced changes in the shock performance. I really wish Elka would publish more in the way of detailed performance tuning info.

Surprising that they did not ask about the weight of the riders & load as that is used to select the weight rating for the springs. In most case 300lb springs are adequate and that may be what they are stocking unless the buyer indicates much larger weight.

 

[TuckMiddle]

Rebound adjustment

Elka's arrived yesterday afternoon so I spent the evening reading up on them and searching the site for tips. Got up at 6 am this morning and went to the shop ( Supposed to be over 100 deg. F today so wanted to work while it was still cool.)

Jacked up the RT under the front till the wheels where about 1/2 in. off the ground. Started on the Right side as everyone said the left was a bugger. Removed both nuts and then the bottom bolt. Jacked the bike up till the bottom of the shock was clear of the mount then pulled the top bolt. Jacked the bike a little higher to facilitate removing the shock. Slid the Elka into place and started the top bolt and put the nut on loosely. lowered the jack while, at the same time, guiding the lower shock mount into position. Installed the bolt and nut and torqued both upper and lower to 35 ft. lbs. (I am an old Aircraft Mechanic so Torque is a habit for me.)

The left side was a little different and much easier than the right side for one reason. I read on the site that those who installed Elkas, if they had to do it over again, they would cut a 3/8's notch in the air tube directly across from the head of the top Shock mount bolt. ( it is easy to find where to cut. After removing the bottom nut and bolt and the top nut slide the top mount bolt out and the bolt head will hit the spot that you need to notch.) After notching the air tube and removing the top mount bolt and shock, I slide the Elka into place and installed the top bolt and nut and lowered the bike till the bottom hole was in alignment and installed the bottom bolt and nut and torqued both to 35 ft lbs. DONE. The whole job took about 2 hours start to finish. Note NO Tupperware removed.

Took the Spyder on a 10 mile test ride on a twisty road and WOW. Easily added 20 mph to all the corners and was rock steady on the straight. A different bike. never once felt I was on the edge of "Nannyville"

I purchased the Shocks from Cowtown but did not talk to Len. The person I talked to didn't ask any questions about weight just asked my percent of 2 up riding. The shocks came set to 21 clicks. I weigh 205 and the wife about 130lbs. Does 21 clicks sound correct for that combination? Also, I have the stage 1 + I think and there is a schrader valve on the top of the shock. I assume that is for Nitrogen and is not a customer function to mess with. The instructions I received make no mention of the valve. Final question. When they say the shock is set at "21 clicks" When you make that adjustment do you actually feel a click OR?

Anyway, overall I am a very happy camper. Thanks to all the trail blazers here on Spyder Lovers and to Cowtown. :yes::yes:

Yes, they click, just like a good torque wrench. Mine were at 25, ended up with 20 - solo most of the time. Easy as pie to back em all the way to zero and tghen count up - that's what the directions say.

Sure do make a difference, I really like them.

TuckMiddle

 

[Bob Denman]

So I'm guessing that my 2010 RT with the oems set at 4 just makes me an "accident waiting to happen" in the twisties? :shocked:
Thanks for that review, and I'm gonna have to move those Elkas up the list.. :thumbup:

 

[Eraser]

So I'm guessing that my 2010 RT with the oems set at 4 just makes me an "accident waiting to happen" in the twisties? :shocked:
Thanks for that review, and I'm gonna have to move those Elkas up the list.. :thumbup:

Bob,I've put them on 2 Spyders and IMO they are the most important mod that one could make...put them at the top of the list if you can,they transform a good machine into a Great Machine!

 

[Trooper]

I purchased the Shocks from Cowtown but did not talk to Len. The person I talked to didn't ask any questions about weight just asked my percent of 2 up riding. The shocks came set to 21 clicks. I weigh 205 and the wife about 130lbs. Does 21 clicks sound correct for that combination?

Based off of the feedback from the majority of Elka riders we have spoken to, 25 clicks from full open seems to be the sweet spot, however robound damping can be a little subjective to road conditions and load in the frunk, so I would say anywhere between 20 and 25 is where you want to aim for.

Also, I have the stage 1 + I think and there is a schrader valve on the top of the shock. I assume that is for Nitrogen and is not a customer function to mess with. The instructions I received make no mention of the valve.

Correct !! The schrader valve is not to be messed with. That is where we insert the nitrogen into the shock.

Final question. When they say the shock is set at "21 clicks" When you make that adjustment do you actually feel a click OR?

Yes, you will actually feel and hear a "click" when you turn the black dial at the bottom.


Anyway, overall I am a very happy camper. Thanks to all the trail blazers here on Spyder Lovers and to Cowtown. :yes::yes:

 

[Firefly]

Assuming you are talking about the Rebound adjustment wheel at the base, you should feel a distinct "click" turning it either way. but, "21 clicks" from which direction? Elka offers some general guidance as to how to go about adjusting the rebound but I think most owners are satisfied with the settings as delivered.

You can also adjust the Pre-Load by turning the collar at the top of the shock if you want a stiffer or softer ride. One or two complete revolutions in either direction can make pronounced changes in the shock performance. I really wish Elka would publish more in the way of detailed performance tuning info.

Surprising that they did not ask about the weight of the riders & load as that is used to select the weight rating for the springs. In most case 300lb springs are adequate and that may be what they are stocking unless the buyer indicates much larger weight.

There's only 50 clicks of adjustment... so if you click all the way till it cannot click anymore...then click to 25 you will be right in the middle... which is pretty good for most riding.

Trooper could tell you which way... clockwise or counterclockwise adds or reduces rebound....

 

[Bad Dog6]

Adjusting Elka's

I talked to Len at Cowtown, Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey.

 

[Yazz]

Just want to put my .02 cents in here, if Y'all don't mind...

Installed my front Elkas before Durango. Knew front end alignment was out and the tires weren't balanced properly. It was a rough ride there and back, it reminded me of my HD...

Got new front tires put on, BUDs hooked up, everything re-aligned, and WOW! Don't feel the need to ryde like a drunk monkey anymore! Can take 90 degree turns in second gear instead of first.

John and Len, Y'all have something good going on here... :clap: