Elka Shocks and Relocators - That Floating Feeling

[ParDuff]

I have a 2011 RT that I put some Elka Stage 1-Plus shocks and relocators on after Spyderfest. The installation raised the nose from just under 3" of ground clearance to 7.5" of clearance. My trailer mud flap now drags on most driveways, but that is easy to correct with a knife. However, the height change also seems to have changed the air flow patterns. The Sypder seems to float when at speeds over 45 mph and the feeling gets worse as the speed goes up and even worse if there is a head wind coming at me. The stronger the wind the worse the floating. It was almost impossible to control on the interstate with heavy traffic and head winds. I had the shocks checked and the dampening was off a little so they were adjusted. Plus, I had an alignment done since I had heard that the Elkas could exaggerate any alignment issues. This corrected the severe issues on the interstate but I still have the floating feeling. I'm thinking I have too much lift from the air flow changes in the front due to the height change but was told that if I adjusted the shocks to lower the height I would not like the ride from the shocks. I am at the point of removing the relocators to see if that is the issue and then maybe put my old shocks back on (glad I kept them). Anyone else have this issue?

 

[MouthPiece]

I have a 2011 RT that I put some Elka Stage 1-Plus shocks and relocators on after Spyderfest. The installation raised the nose from just under 3" of ground clearance to 7.5" of clearance. My trailer mud flap now drags on most driveways, but that is easy to correct with a knife. However, the height change also seems to have changed the air flow patterns. The Sypder seems to float when at speeds over 45 mph and the feeling gets worse as the speed goes up and even worse if there is a head wind coming at me. The stronger the wind the worse the floating. It was almost impossible to control on the interstate with heavy traffic and head winds. I had the shocks checked and the dampening was off a little so they were adjusted. Plus, I had an alignment done since I had heard that the Elkas could exaggerate any alignment issues. This corrected the severe issues on the interstate but I still have the floating feeling. I'm thinking I have too much lift from the air flow changes in the front due to the height change but was told that if I adjusted the shocks to lower the height I would not like the ride from the shocks. I am at the point of removing the relocators to see if that is the issue and then maybe put my old shocks back on (glad I kept them). Anyone else have this issue?

Stage One Elkas raised the front of my 2010 RT-S about an inch not four and a half inches. I'm not a gear head by any stretch of the imagination, but sumptin ain't right there in my opinion.

Chris

 

[jthornton]

Is your air bag for the rear wheel flat? Adding Elka's and relocators only raised my RT about an inch or so not four. Something is wrong!

JT

 

[NancysToy]

I'd have the toe-in (alignment) checked. The change in air flow could be aggravating the situation if the toe-in was already marginal. As was said, also be sure the rear air suspension is working and adjusted properly. Something else is amiss, though. The OEM Spyder should have had more ground clearance than just 3", and the Elka/relocator combo should not have added a whole 4.5" more. I'd consider getting rid of one of those mods and trying it, or at least backing off the Elka preload significantly.

 

[Chupaca]

Have to agree..!!

check the rear, then the preload on the shocks. Those changes should not have increased your height that much..let us know what you find..

 

[Bob Denman]

Well at least now you can mount up some knobby tires; you've got the clearance for off-roading!
Seriously; something just ain't right for that much of a change to happen... :shocked:

 

[2 Cruysyn]

Had the Elka Stage 1+ installed on our 2011 RTS at Spyderfest. Raised the front a bit which was a plus once the fronk got loaded for the trip home. Backed off the preload once we got back. The ride was too stiff for my liking.

I agree your rear suspension should be considered as a contributor to what you're experiencing. I, like many other 2011 owners, have experienced the air leak and destroyed shock as a result which left me riding on the coil-over and whatever air was in the bag, if any, with little dampening from the shock. (The roads in and around Tulsa suck!) Had that taken care of last week. Might be worth making sure you're not having the same problem.

Enjoyed seeing your pictures of the NWA ride from June 16 of 2012. Not every day I'm in the picture since I'm usually the one taking it!

 

[finless]

Question

Question on this rear shock subject.

How do you test / check / inspect that the air bag is working?

Does the indicator on the dash when adjusting ride actually tell you anything e.g. is there a feedback to the dash that it is in fact pumping up or down the bag? or is that indicator just showing you what your adjustment is set to regardless if the bag is actually filling up or not?


Thanks,
Bob

 

[gypsy_100]

The Elka's should take it up a little over an inch to an inch and a half maximum, depending on where you set the preload. Your experience is way out of line. Something's amiss.

 

[NancysToy]

Question on this rear shock subject.

How do you test / check / inspect that the air bag is working?

Does the indicator on the dash when adjusting ride actually tell you anything e.g. is there a feedback to the dash that it is in fact pumping up or down the bag? or is that indicator just showing you what your adjustment is set to regardless if the bag is actually filling up or not?


Thanks,
Bob

If you have the ACS suspension, the best way to check is to start the Spyder, Put it in gear, then adjust the suspension to the lowest or highest setting. You should hear the compressor run if it needs to rise, and the solenoid releasing air if it is lowering. Have someone measure to the bottom of the rear fender (or just watch the Spyder as it adjusts). Now change to the opposite setting and measure again.

The best way to check for leaks is to measure the air pressure at the Schrader valve under the seat, then check again the next morning. For Spyders with the ACS suspension, the Spyder should not be started in the interim. You can also check for leaks at the Schrader valve with a little spit or soapy water.

 

[ParDuff]

More Info

I have a 2011 RT that I put some Elka Stage 1-Plus shocks and relocators on after Spyderfest. The installation raised the nose from just under 3" of ground clearance to 7.5" of clearance. My trailer mud flap now drags on most driveways, but that is easy to correct with a knife. However, the height change also seems to have changed the air flow patterns. The Sypder seems to float when at speeds over 45 mph and the feeling gets worse as the speed goes up and even worse if there is a head wind coming at me. The stronger the wind the worse the floating. It was almost impossible to control on the interstate with heavy traffic and head winds. I had the shocks checked and the dampening was off a little so they were adjusted. Plus, I had an alignment done since I had heard that the Elkas could exaggerate any alignment issues. This corrected the severe issues on the interstate but I still have the floating feeling. I'm thinking I have too much lift from the air flow changes in the front due to the height change but was told that if I adjusted the shocks to lower the height I would not like the ride from the shocks. I am at the point of removing the relocators to see if that is the issue and then maybe put my old shocks back on (glad I kept them). Anyone else have this issue?

I am having some issues with the ACS, it seems to be riding fine and then feels like I'm on a washboard. The ACS started with a lot have noise (different than normal) and then not running at all. Dealer found a leak and said all is fine. Not So. I'm planning to take if back to have it checked again. I was getting gas and before turning off the engine, I tried to adjust the ACS to validate it was or was not working. Nothing happened, no pump, no release, nothing. Tried several times going up and down the scale. When I started the Spyder up again, it seemed fine and the ride felt normal. Maybe the ACS is the issue and the shocks just showed that.

To add insult to injury, now I think my rear bearing is out. Was setting up for a ride on Saturday night and pushed the Spyder out of the garage to setup my GoPro. I heard a loud clicking from the rear wheel (forward and backward). Had this same noise shortly after purchasing 2 years ago and the bearing was installed incorrectly and was damaged. My dealer just replaced my bearings as part of a new tire install. I asked that they be checked while installing the tire, said they were bad and replaced them. I don't have 3 tanks of gas on the bearings yet.

It's go to get better and I'll post the outcome once I get it back from the dealer.

 

[ParDuff]

I am having some issues with the ACS, it seems to be riding fine and then feels like I'm on a washboard. The ACS started with a lot have noise (different than normal) and then not running at all. Dealer found a leak and said all is fine. Not So. I'm planning to take if back to have it checked again. I was getting gas and before turning off the engine, I tried to adjust the ACS to validate it was or was not working. Nothing happened, no pump, no release, nothing. Tried several times going up and down the scale. When I started the Spyder up again, it seemed fine and the ride felt normal. Maybe the ACS is the issue and the shocks just showed that.

To add insult to injury, now I think my rear bearing is out. Was setting up for a ride on Saturday night and pushed the Spyder out of the garage to setup my GoPro. I heard a loud clicking from the rear wheel (forward and backward). Had this same noise shortly after purchasing 2 years ago and the bearing was installed incorrectly and was damaged. My dealer just replaced my bearings as part of a new tire install. I asked that they be checked while installing the tire, said they were bad and replaced them. I don't have 3 tanks of gas on the bearings yet.

It's go to get better and I'll post the outcome once I get it back from the dealer.

I just checked to see the adjustment height and at the lowest (softest) setting the fender was 15.75" from the ground and 16.5" at the highest (stiffest). I then shut off the Spyder and checked the air pressure and it was 54 lbs. Thought I was double check to be sure I had it correct and it was at 48 lbs. Weird, so I checked it again and again and it was at 42 lbs when I quit checking. I think there is a link.

 

[NancysToy]

..... I was getting gas and before turning off the engine, I tried to adjust the ACS to validate it was or was not working. Nothing happened, no pump, no release, nothing. Tried several times going up and down the scale. .....

Did you have the Spyder running and in gear when you checked? The ACS does not function in neutral or with the engine off.

 

[flybuddy]

I believe it is such a low volume system that simply checking the air causes a loss of a few pounds each time.

 

[BikerDoc]

i believe that general consensus is that the elkas increase clearance by roughly only one inch and that increase adds protection to undercarriage without adding any problems or rear clearance issues.

 

[ParDuff]

I just checked to see the adjustment height and at the lowest (softest) setting the fender was 15.75" from the ground and 16.5" at the highest (stiffest). I then shut off the Spyder and checked the air pressure and it was 54 lbs. Thought I was double check to be sure I had it correct and it was at 48 lbs. Weird, so I checked it again and again and it was at 42 lbs when I quit checking. I think there is a link.

Yes the Spyder was running and in gear. Parking Brake was off.

 

[ParDuff]

Did you have the Spyder running and in gear when you checked? The ACS does not function in neutral or with the engine off.

Yes, was running and in gear. Parking brake may have been on now that I think of it. Not sure about that which would explain it not working.

 

[NancysToy]

I believe it is such a low volume system that simply checking the air causes a loss of a few pounds each time.

Yes, that is true, just like a bicycle tire. Best thing is to check before you go into the house, and then again the next morning. Even then, don't expect the exact same reading, due to losses while checking and temperature changes. If an electric ACS system leaks, you may hear the compressor running frequently while riding. Another way to check for leaks is to set the ride height to max before parking, or fill the manual system to 80 pounds or so, measure rear fender height, then measure the rear fender height again in the morning.

Yes, was running and in gear. Parking brake may have been on now that I think of it. Not sure about that which would explain it not working.

The parking brake needs to be off.

 

[Bob Denman]

I see a ptential problem... :shocked:
This system is based on ride height, and not system pressure. During the day when you're out on the road soaking up the sunshine and heat, it'll bleed off air to keep the ride height constant...
Park it overnight and let the coolness of the evening perform it's magic, and you'll be sitting low in the morning... it needs to pump itself back up to once again get the ride height correct.
The air pressure in irrelevant in that it's only a by product of ride height; nothing more...
(Or am I all screwed up again?)

 

[NancysToy]

I see a ptential problem... :shocked:
This system is based on ride height, and not system pressure. During the day when you're out on the road soaking up the sunshine and heat, it'll bleed off air to keep the ride height constant...
Park it overnight and let the coolness of the evening perform it's magic, and you'll be sitting low in the morning... it needs to pump itself back up to once again get the ride height correct.
The air pressure in irrelevant in that it's only a by product of ride height; nothing more...
(Or am I all screwed up again?)

You are correct, however a check for gross leakage is possible. The numbers aren't critically important as long as the difference isn't too large.