SilverSurfer
RT-S PE#0391
I just had an Elka Stage 1 (without reservoir) installed on the rear, as ordered from John at Elka. Installed by Pete's Cycle, Baltimore, MD, my Can Am Dealer, from whom I purchased my RT-S back in January 2010.
Well, here's my experience:
The rear shock threw my dealer techs (who just came back from Spyder School down in GA) for a bit of a loop, in the mixed context of (1) getting the shock on, and (2) re-calibrating the ASC system. I had them re-calibrate ASC because it had never been right when the dealer did it the first time, and I got a field fix at Maggie Valley at the 2011 Owner's Event. I think the rear shock comes with a 235lb spring.
The shock went on, but then I started getting calls from the service department. They were trying to set the bike up for the ACS re-cal, but the rear of the bike, on the rack, and under the recommended 210 pounds of load on the bike, was sitting too high (about two inches) to set the frame back on the shorter wooden block (for the bottom range of the ASC setting). The dealer asked me to call Elka, which I did, then Elka asked me to call Len at Cowtown, which I did. Len asked me to both Elka and my dealer back and get the factory-configured shock length, and spring length, then compare the two. What it came down to was that the Elka shock spring length (from the factory) was supposed to be 9", compressed 5mm (about 1/4 in). My mechanic told me he measured 8.5" spring length. So, Len had me tell my mechanic to take off just shy of 1/2" of pre-load under the principle that there is 1" ride height difference difference per every 1/4" of preload spring length.
Well, this took care of the extra two inches ... HOWEVER, The Elka shock is so firm that there was no way that 210 pounds was going to compress the bike to set the lower ASC on BUDS. I anticipate they put on maybe 280 pounds to get this shock down to where they could set the lower ASC setting. Then they did the high range. When I picked up the bike, I could hear the pump charging and letting off air as I switched up an down on the "soft-hard" switch on the RT-S console.
So, now to ride: This is an incredibly firm shock. Whereas I used to be able to go to the back of the spyder and push down to get a gradual but stiffening 'bobbing' effect, one can only do this slightly with the new shock, and then the thing is like pushing down on ... umm ... something slightly softer than concrete.
I started by moving the Spyder around the parking lot. Felt okay ... but I did notice this minor little 'tonk' (or was it a 'tink'?)sound every time I crossed a seam in the asphalt, or those other small ridges. I know they used all the parts out of the box from Elka (shock, with spring and top connector rod) ... nothing left over. Nothing they told me they couldn't apply. Again, I didn't detect this by 'feel'. I just heard it. I don't think it's the shock or anything topping out, because it doesn't top out when I bounce the back of the bike. Gonna keep my eye on this. I mean, how many ways can you goof connecting a rear shock? And on the rear, it's VERY clear as to which end is top and which is bottom. If anybody has a clue, let me know.
Next, I rode it home. For as firm as the shock is, it ended up not pounding my butt on the road back through Southeast Baltimore, out along I-895 through the harbor tunnel. Seemed fine. You could feel the added firmness, but it wasn't uncomfortable. Once back in my neighborhood, I then took it on a ride through my little twisties near Ellicott City. These are a mile or two of curves as severe as The Dragon. One thing I noticed is that with the 300lb springs in the front and the Elka in the rear, the bike stays so flat that it is easy to over-agress into a curve! The nanny kicked in twice; on one curve I was moving so fast I unexpectedly almost said hello to a youngster cheating the curve, doing the same thing in his chopped Corolla as I was doing on the Spyder. I yanked her to the inside, on went the nanny; so I can tell you my RT-S is a very tight performer at this point. *whew* I also did not detect any road hop around curves in the rear). This would tell me the shock is re-bounding correctly, right?
I guess my lingering concerns are that little sound I'm getting, and any knowledge regarding the firmness ... which almost seemed like too much nitro in the shock from the factory (but John assures me this couldn't be the case). They don't give out any specs on how much charge is supposed to be on the thing.
I'd like to hear from anyone else who's had mysteries SPECIFICALLY with the rear shock and ASC calibration, and if anybody's getting that little 'tink' sound. Oh Great Spirit, please let this install be righteous.
ray:
Best,
Paul
(Surfer)
Well, here's my experience:
The rear shock threw my dealer techs (who just came back from Spyder School down in GA) for a bit of a loop, in the mixed context of (1) getting the shock on, and (2) re-calibrating the ASC system. I had them re-calibrate ASC because it had never been right when the dealer did it the first time, and I got a field fix at Maggie Valley at the 2011 Owner's Event. I think the rear shock comes with a 235lb spring.
The shock went on, but then I started getting calls from the service department. They were trying to set the bike up for the ACS re-cal, but the rear of the bike, on the rack, and under the recommended 210 pounds of load on the bike, was sitting too high (about two inches) to set the frame back on the shorter wooden block (for the bottom range of the ASC setting). The dealer asked me to call Elka, which I did, then Elka asked me to call Len at Cowtown, which I did. Len asked me to both Elka and my dealer back and get the factory-configured shock length, and spring length, then compare the two. What it came down to was that the Elka shock spring length (from the factory) was supposed to be 9", compressed 5mm (about 1/4 in). My mechanic told me he measured 8.5" spring length. So, Len had me tell my mechanic to take off just shy of 1/2" of pre-load under the principle that there is 1" ride height difference difference per every 1/4" of preload spring length.
Well, this took care of the extra two inches ... HOWEVER, The Elka shock is so firm that there was no way that 210 pounds was going to compress the bike to set the lower ASC on BUDS. I anticipate they put on maybe 280 pounds to get this shock down to where they could set the lower ASC setting. Then they did the high range. When I picked up the bike, I could hear the pump charging and letting off air as I switched up an down on the "soft-hard" switch on the RT-S console.
So, now to ride: This is an incredibly firm shock. Whereas I used to be able to go to the back of the spyder and push down to get a gradual but stiffening 'bobbing' effect, one can only do this slightly with the new shock, and then the thing is like pushing down on ... umm ... something slightly softer than concrete.
I started by moving the Spyder around the parking lot. Felt okay ... but I did notice this minor little 'tonk' (or was it a 'tink'?)sound every time I crossed a seam in the asphalt, or those other small ridges. I know they used all the parts out of the box from Elka (shock, with spring and top connector rod) ... nothing left over. Nothing they told me they couldn't apply. Again, I didn't detect this by 'feel'. I just heard it. I don't think it's the shock or anything topping out, because it doesn't top out when I bounce the back of the bike. Gonna keep my eye on this. I mean, how many ways can you goof connecting a rear shock? And on the rear, it's VERY clear as to which end is top and which is bottom. If anybody has a clue, let me know.
Next, I rode it home. For as firm as the shock is, it ended up not pounding my butt on the road back through Southeast Baltimore, out along I-895 through the harbor tunnel. Seemed fine. You could feel the added firmness, but it wasn't uncomfortable. Once back in my neighborhood, I then took it on a ride through my little twisties near Ellicott City. These are a mile or two of curves as severe as The Dragon. One thing I noticed is that with the 300lb springs in the front and the Elka in the rear, the bike stays so flat that it is easy to over-agress into a curve! The nanny kicked in twice; on one curve I was moving so fast I unexpectedly almost said hello to a youngster cheating the curve, doing the same thing in his chopped Corolla as I was doing on the Spyder. I yanked her to the inside, on went the nanny; so I can tell you my RT-S is a very tight performer at this point. *whew* I also did not detect any road hop around curves in the rear). This would tell me the shock is re-bounding correctly, right?
I guess my lingering concerns are that little sound I'm getting, and any knowledge regarding the firmness ... which almost seemed like too much nitro in the shock from the factory (but John assures me this couldn't be the case). They don't give out any specs on how much charge is supposed to be on the thing.
I'd like to hear from anyone else who's had mysteries SPECIFICALLY with the rear shock and ASC calibration, and if anybody's getting that little 'tink' sound. Oh Great Spirit, please let this install be righteous.
ray:Best,
Paul
(Surfer)
