• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Electrical/Lighting Question

ValCruzSpyder

New member
Good afternoon y'all!! I've got a situation I was hoping someone could solve for me. This is it; when I turn the ignition switch to the ON position, none of the lights on my my Right Fender comes on. The (White) Position Light, the (Red) Rear, the LED Fender Channel lights, nor the Right Fin will not light up. Here's the kicker; if I turn the key to the off position, then turn on the Hazards (4-way Flashers), all lights work as designed. I am open to any and all suggestions. Called the Dealer, he said he has never heard of this particular problem. He said he would research it. In the interim, I thought I would check and see if the Community had any remedies/suggestions.:pray::pray:
 
Need Info:
1st - What model & year bike?
2nd - Fender Lights are not OEM (other than front tip). What "kit" did you buy & from whom?
3rd - Did this just happen (ie it use to illuminate with just the key "on")?
4th - Left-side working as usual (key "on" = lights on)?


Sounds like "short" somewhere in the harness where the "kit" plugs into the OEM harness (inside tire near support arm). I had to re-purchase a new "Front Fender TIPS for RT" kit from Custom Dynamics (formerly ESI) due to the same kinda of issue. Now it all works as advertised! ;)
 
Additional Info

1st - What model & year bike?
I have a 2012 RT SE5.
2nd - Fender Lights are not OEM (other than front tip). What "kit" did you buy & from whom?
I purchased the LEDs from TRICLED, but the lights have been operating normally for more than 9 months.
3rd - Did this just happen (ie it use to illuminate with just the key "on")?
All of the lights were working properly this past weekend, with the key in the ON position. Yes, this just happened.
4th - Left-side working as usual (key "on" = lights on)?
This is the kicker; the Left Fender OEM Lights and the "Add-On" Lights work as usual when the key is ON.

Sounds like "short" somewhere in the harness where the "kit" plugs into the OEM harness (inside tire near support arm). I had to re-purchase a new "Front Fender TIPS for RT" kit from Custom Dynamics (formerly ESI) due to the same kinda of issue. Now it all works as advertised! ;)
At first, I thought this could be the problem when I turned the ignition to ON. But when I turned on the Flashers, all the lights (OEM and TRICLEDs) on both sides lit up and worked (flashed) normally.

Hope this is enough to go on, SPYDERFUN. Thanks for the response.
 
When we add farkles to our:spyder2: make sure follow all instructions. Electricity is very strange but fun when we work with it.:yes:
 
Still searching for an answer/remedy

Let's recap;
All the lights have been working fine for 9+months. I was just on my SPYDER this weekend and everything was fine. I jump on it this morning (gingerly, mind you), turn the key to ON,...no right fender lights at all. I turn the key to OFF. I proceed to engage the Hazard switch, and all is fine. Everything works! Happy me! Turn the key back to ON,...and...wait for it...you guessed it...no right fender lights. DEJA VU! We've been here before! I am reaching out to anyone with a workable situation/answer. Put me on the path to enlightenment! The Dealer has yet to call me back. Right now I'm SPYDERLESS. I think that is a crime in some states!
If anybody can steer me in the right direction, I promise to raise my glass in your honor at my next Bar Misfit. (Don't ask me about that one) And if I have offended anyone with my feeble attempt at humor, I apologize. Being without my :spyder2: has made me a little :banghead:!!!! Especially when my local Dealer has no idea what is wrong. I hesitate in bringing the SPYDER back to him. I fear I will not see my Buddy for some time. If ANYONE has a direction in which I should steer, I'm open for it...as long as it doesn't involve barnyard animals. Still trying to get over that thing with the angry chicken!!! Don't ask! John
 
The most common cause of this would be a failure of a black box added to the system. A short could do it on that side, but the shorts are most commonly in the accessory lighting module itself. Just because it worked for 9 months doesn't mean it can't fail. Replacement of the module is usually necessary. To test, take the module out of the circuit, going back to the OEM wiring configuration. If all is well, the module is toast. On the other hand, if you did some rewiring or reconnected something that you disconnected, just before the failure, you could have hooked things up wrong, the "short" could be making the module malfunction. BTW, the running lights and brake lights (flashers) are two different circuits, so one can work without the other being functional. The dealer is going to have difficulty diagnosing it if an accessory lighting module has been added. Most just remove them, then charge you money for the privilege.
 
Keeping My Fingers Crossed

The most common cause of this would be a failure of a black box added to the system.
Where would I find this item on the Spyder?
A short could do it on that side, but the shorts are most commonly in the accessory lighting module itself.
Are you referring to the accessory lighting module in the fuse box in the frunk?
Just because it worked for 9 months doesn't mean it can't fail. Replacement of the module is usually necessary. To test, take the module out of the circuit, going back to the OEM wiring configuration. If all is well, the module is toast.
Sounds like I will be trying this test in a few short hours, as I am stuck at work until noon today.
On the other hand, if you did some rewiring or reconnected something that you disconnected, just before the failure, you could have hooked things up wrong, the "short" could be making the module malfunction.
Unfortunately, nothing has been changed or hooked up since I installed the TRICLED with the OEM connectors about 9-months ago. I will go over the installation instructions and re-trace my work just to make sure.
BTW, the running lights and brake lights (flashers) are two different circuits, so one can work without the other being functional.
I had my suspicions about that as well.
The dealer is going to have difficulty diagnosing it if an accessory lighting module has been added. Most just remove them, then charge you money for the privilege.
Before I take it in, I’ll give your suggestions a go. Thanks for the input. I’ll keep you posted on the results.
 
The most common cause of this would be a failure of a black box added to the system. A short could do it on that side, but the shorts are most commonly in the accessory lighting module itself. Just because it worked for 9 months doesn't mean it can't fail. Replacement of the module is usually necessary. To test, take the module out of the circuit, going back to the OEM wiring configuration. If all is well, the module is toast. On the other hand, if you did some rewiring or reconnected something that you disconnected, just before the failure, you could have hooked things up wrong, the "short" could be making the module malfunction. BTW, the running lights and brake lights (flashers) are two different circuits, so one can work without the other being functional. The dealer is going to have difficulty diagnosing it if an accessory lighting module has been added. Most just remove them, then charge you money for the privilege.


BETTER TEST:
IF you can connect the right (inop) side to the LEFT circuit of the module would be even better way of confirming module failure. This typically requires the use of "jumper wires". If it works as advertised - faulty module. If not, likely a wiring harness issue (not likely given lights do light up w/flashers "on"). As Scotty said, likely 2 different input (power) sources with key "on" versus flashers "on".

You can also check to see if there is input voltage on the inop side with key "on" (voltage needed for lights to work - no volts = no lights) then check to see if there is voltage thru the connection and at the light side of the connection. This test checks the connection itself. Again, not likely an issue given the flashers make the lights illuminate (voltage received).

Hope this helps!



-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>
 
SUCCESS...at last!!!!!

I just wanted to drop a few lines to give credit where credit is due. Thanks to the valuable information gleaned from two GREAT SpyderLovers, (SpyderFun and NancysToy), that small electrical problem i was having has been rectified!! Everything pointed towards a bad TIPS Kit, so I ordered a set from my local dealer (All Out Cycles), got it the next day and installed it myself! Pretty impressive, given the fact that I may have to undergo surgery for my sciatic nerve issue any day now. Sorry for the delay in keeping you updated on the progress. Thanks for all the help and I hope I can return the favor someday. Hope everyone has a Safe and Fun Memorial Day Weekend!!!
:yes::):yes::thumbup:
 
Back
Top