• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Electrical hook up....

Electrical hookup/battery

Do not try to take the bolt loose from the battery ground wire, because there is a self locking nut underneath that you can not get to. Once I got mine loose, I cound not tighten it back up & it took me hours to get the self locking nut off. Once off I tapped into the frame so I could just run a bolt down to it. Another BRP rocket scientist genius idea.
 
Do not try to take the bolt loose from the battery ground wire, because there is a self locking nut underneath that you can not get to. Once I got mine loose, I cound not tighten it back up & it took me hours to get the self locking nut off. Once off I tapped into the frame so I could just run a bolt down to it. Another BRP rocket scientist genius idea.
:agree:I loosen that bolt about a year ago, Cursed like a D.I. I still shake my head every time i look at that bolt :gaah:Normal manufactures weld the nut to the frame.
 
Well... I'm going to mount the PC-8 in the trunk. It is the only truly dry place that also gives me unfettered access to the fuses if needed. Made the bulk of my electrical harness today.

It will run from the battery underneath the top frame spar to the "passenger" side of the bike. The two fuse holders will be accessible near where the factory fuse holder for the DPS and such is and will then route under the plastic to the forward frame rail and into the trunk. I'll be able to keep the hole in the top of the trunk weather proof, so no biggy.

I'll post pictures next week when I'm done. I used two hot 12ga leads. One for the switched circuits, and one for the non-switched, hence the two fuse holders. I did a home run ground to the battery with both a 12ga and 16ga ground. The 16ga will be the ground for the coil on the relay. The trigger line will merge into the harness before it enters the trunk. The relay will also be in the trunk.

I really over built this harness. I used to trouble shoot various electrical/mechanical circuits, and I don't want to ever worry about a crimp going bad. I'm not using a single crimp connector except for where wires terminate at the battery, or relay. Only using a positap for the trigger.

I'm still looking at the way the MotoLights I had installed at Gatlinburg are wired in so I can incorporate them into the PC-8.

Fun Fun!
 
One warning about mounting in trunk... if the trunk has to be removed for any reason, there is a significant problem.

See:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=37702&postcount=1

.
Well... I'm going to mount the PC-8 in the trunk. It is the only truly dry place that also gives me unfettered access to the fuses if needed. Made the bulk of my electrical harness today.

It will run from the battery underneath the top frame spar to the "passenger" side of the bike. The two fuse holders will be accessible near where the factory fuse holder for the DPS and such is and will then route under the plastic to the forward frame rail and into the trunk. I'll be able to keep the hole in the top of the trunk weather proof, so no biggy.

I'll post pictures next week when I'm done. I used two hot 12ga leads. One for the switched circuits, and one for the non-switched, hence the two fuse holders. I did a home run ground to the battery with both a 12ga and 16ga ground. The 16ga will be the ground for the coil on the relay. The trigger line will merge into the harness before it enters the trunk. The relay will also be in the trunk.

I really over built this harness. I used to trouble shoot various electrical/mechanical circuits, and I don't want to ever worry about a crimp going bad. I'm not using a single crimp connector except for where wires terminate at the battery, or relay. Only using a positap for the trigger.

I'm still looking at the way the MotoLights I had installed at Gatlinburg are wired in so I can incorporate them into the PC-8.

Fun Fun!
 
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