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E3 Spark Plugs

I heard they work good in lawn mowers, I think that was the first use for them.
But the Spyder isn't a lawn mower, Give them a try and let us know how they work out.
I don't think anyone has posted about using them in a Spyder, So someone has to be the first.:dontknow:
 
E-3 SPARK PLUGS

Help me out here are they special, and if so why, and what are they supposed to accomplish......Thanks....Mike.....:thumbup:
 
I switched over to them in my ATV (a "686'd" Grizzly), and found that the bike picked up the throttle and ran quicker with them. I had a .3 second quicker 5mph to 40mph runs. :thumbup:
I DID need to rejet up one size on the mains...
 
Help me out here are they special, and if so why, and what are they supposed to accomplish......Thanks....Mike.....:thumbup:

I sell the NGK Iridium plugs so you have to take that into account. If you do a search on the E3 you'll find a lot of complaints. Mostly with misfiring but a few where the negative electrode broke off and did engine damage.

Here is just one forum thread I bumped into.
http://www.wrenchheads.net/2009/12/22/e3-spark-plugs-my-experience/

Still, I'd love for someone to try these plugs and let us know how they do. I'm always interested in a better product.
 
Has anyone used E3 Spark Plugs in their Spyder?

I received a reply from the folks that make the E3 this morning. I emailed them the day before asking about using the E3 in a Spyder. Their reply was that unfortunutly they do not make an E3 for the Spyder. I originally thought it might do me some good because it is supposed to fire hotter than a normal plug. The E3 has 3 electrodes, instead of 1.
 
I received a reply from the folks that make the E3 this morning. I emailed them the day before asking about using the E3 in a Spyder. Their reply was that unfortunutly they do not make an E3 for the Spyder. I originally thought it might do me some good because it is supposed to fire hotter than a normal plug. The E3 has 3 electrodes, instead of 1.

I don't know how they [E3] can say they can say they fire hotter, without changing the coils.
In the 60's i would cut the electrodes ''back'' half way for a better flame, Picked up 2 10th's of a second in the 1/4 mile. [440 Wedge] Over the stock J 8 Champs..
 
I received a reply from the folks that make the E3 this morning. I emailed them the day before asking about using the E3 in a Spyder. Their reply was that unfortunutly they do not make an E3 for the Spyder. I originally thought it might do me some good because it is supposed to fire hotter than a normal plug. The E3 has 3 electrodes, instead of 1.

Personally, I think they did you a favor. There have been quite a few multi-negative electrode offerings out there and they all, eventually, go away. Some have had 3, some 4, all have proven to be a waste of time except in some cases (discussed below).

The prolbem is, additional electrodes tend to block side and vertical flame propagation.

The more obsticles between the spark and the fuel charge, the more the fuel charge is shielded from the ignition source. Think of a large room filled with explosive gasses. What is the best way to get the most energy production, the biggest bang? It is with an unobstructed ignition source suspended in the center of the room. If you place a small wall near the ignition source it will reduce the explosive energy a bit because it shields some gas behind that wall. This shielded gas will ignite late costing power production.

As you add more walls to the side and above the ignition source you're going to compound this problem. That is why a single negative electrode spark plug has been around so long. It doesn't look nearly as cool or trick. But in a well running engine, it does a better job.

Where a multi-electrode plug usually excells is in the area of mis-firing. With more options, the spark is more likely to fire every time under adverse condtions. If your engine tends to foul (too much oil consumption, for example) these may help. But you're putting a band aid on the real problem or oil in the conbustion chamber. If your spark is weak these plugs may also help. But it's far better to correct the condition creating misfire and installing the right, single electrode spark plug.
 
The problem is, additional electrodes tend to block side and vertical flame propagation.

The more obsticles between the spark and the fuel charge, the more the fuel charge is shielded from the ignition source. Think of a large room filled with explosive gasses. What is the best way to get the most energy production, the biggest bang? It is with an unobstructed ignition source suspended in the center of the room. If you place a small wall near the ignition source it will reduce the explosive energy a bit because it shields some gas behind that wall. This shielded gas will ignite late costing power production.

As you add more walls to the side and above the ignition source you're going to compound this problem. That is why a single negative electrode spark plug has been around so long. It doesn't look nearly as cool or trick. But in a well running engine, it does a better job.

Where a multi-electrode plug usually excells is in the area of mis-firing. With more options, the spark is more likely to fire every time under adverse condtions. If your engine tends to foul (too much oil consumption, for example) these may help. But you're putting a band aid on the real problem or oil in the conbustion chamber. If your spark is weak these plugs may also help. But it's far better to correct the condition creating misfire and installing the right, single electrode spark plug.

That even made sense to me!
Thanks Ron! :thumbup:
 
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