Dynamic Driving Light Kit - Hooking to Hi Beams Question - 2019 RTL

[CloverHillCrawler]

Not to hijack the thread, shut me down if this seems off topic but with the discussion of the shutter system and how abhorrent it is I thought I would bring this up.

At slingmods and kemimoto store on Amazon, Kemimoto offers a led headlight assembly for the F3 models that has a separate led high beam and DRL.

Supposedly it is plug and play I was wondering if anybody had tried these as a solution to the eliminating the shutter altogether?

If I should start another thread about this kindly kill my post and send me a pm so I know to do so.

I was thinking of ordering some of these as I really do not like the high beam or the so called imitation of it.

https://slingshot-accessories.com/product/can-am-spyder-f3-led-headlight-kit-with-turn-signal-lights-and-drl/

https://www.amazon.com/Kemimoto-Headlight-Assembly-Compatible-Accessories/dp/B09Q38D8Y6/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_w=tjUcX&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=XVTV6AMJ9C0E440SZC04&pd_rd_wg=xkVrn&pd_rd_r=83ba59f8-0155-48b6-ab7a-95c86cfb2009&pd_rd_i=B09Q38D8Y6&psc=1

 

[EdMat]

If I had an F3 I think I would be looking at it. Thanks for bringing it up CloverHillCrawler.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

YW, I also just noticed that Tricled also sells an led no shutter assembly for the F3/s/t/ltd as well. Nothing for RT's though that I can find so far.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

YW, I also just noticed that Tricled also sells an led no shutter assembly for the F3/s/t/ltd as well. Nothing for RT's though that I can find so far.

That's because the F3 has always used a dual filament Hi/Lo beam headlight and not the shutter system.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

That's because the F3 has always used a dual filament Hi/Lo beam headlight and not the shutter system.

pps:

 

[cruisinTX]

I cannot address the wiring issues but had a thought on the placement of the unit as regards hitting the body. Even though it would create another shadow from the front fender, moving the unit back to where it is centered in line with the pivot point of the wheel should eliminate hitting the body. Sinc the goal is to have directional lights, the mission is still mostly accomplished and the shadow from the body is not that much larger than the designed location.

My vision in a crude photoshop attempt.

 

[EdMat]

I cannot address the wiring issues but had a thought on the placement of the unit as regards hitting the body. Even though it would create another shadow from the front fender, moving the unit back to where it is centered in line with the pivot point of the wheel should eliminate hitting the body. Sinc the goal is to have directional lights, the mission is still mostly accomplished and the shadow from the body is not that much larger than the designed location.

My vision in a crude photoshop attempt.

That would work, but I played a bit with that and it did cut off the lighting to the sides. Didn't want to give that up for the back roads driving and the animals.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

That would work, but I played a bit with that and it did cut off the lighting to the sides. Didn't want to give that up for the back roads driving and the animals.

I mounted driving lights on the fenders on my 2013 RT. That made them directional and did not cut off the side light spread except when turning. You can see them in this pic.

 

[cruisinTX]

IdahoMtnSpyder, Those look very similar to some I have used on the bikes in the past. The first pic are 1200 Lumen but I found some 8000 Lumen units (second pic) from the same supplier on Amazon today that I am thinking about mounting just as you have them in your picture. They are only 29.63/pair. The ones on the bikes have proven to be very durable, but none of them were mounted on the forks so no exposure to bouncing up and down with the wheel. How have yours held up under exposure to the bouncing of the front wheels?

 

[Peteoz]

I am in Australia.

This is interesting. The Can-Am dealership where I have mine serviced installed the electrics for my extra lights. They installed the switch I provided (A waterproof Can-Am clone I bought/installed myself). They chose to not connect to the lighting circuit at all - mine can only operate by the switch - not the way I would have preferred. When I asked, the tech said they get too many Spyders back with Canbus issues due to tapping into the lighting circuit.

Our low beams are atrocious. I have wondered how to determine how my Canbus Bypass relay would cope with the lights (Baja Design S2 Pro combo's). My relay powers the 622 Trailer and my cameras.

Anyone know from these specs:

• S2 Pro 1.7amps
• Bypass relay specs = https://maypoleltd-my.sharepoint.co...k/Documents/390B instruction 04-2017.pdf?ga=1

So Askitee, are you saying that your driving lights can be switched on and off, regardless of whether you are running high beam or low beam? If the answer is yes, you’ll find that is contrary to Aussie design rules, which say that you must have a switch for your driving lights, and that switch can only operate when high beam is on. I only ask as that might present a problem when you have to go for a vehicle rego inspection.:dontknow:

Pete

 

[askitee]

So Askitee, are you saying that your driving lights can be switched on and off, regardless of whether you are running high beam or low beam? If the answer is yes, you’ll find that is contrary to Aussie design rules, which say that you must have a switch for your driving lights, and that switch can only operate when high beam is on. I only ask as that might present a problem when you have to go for a vehicle rego inspection.:dontknow:

Pete

That's correct, I can switch them on or off independant of Hi/Lo mode. As mentioned its not what I wanted but the dealership stated that many issues arise when the lighting circuit is tapped for a signal for a relay. I provided a solid state relay instead of a mechanical one and they still felt problems would arise. I go in for the 75k service in mid Jan and I'm going to ask if they had any experience with my bypass relay.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

but the dealership stated that many issues arise when the lighting circuit is tapped for a signal for a relay.

I sure don't know how that can be. As I said above the headlight circuit, other than the power to trigger the relays, are conventional electric circuits. The turn signal circuits are controlled by the cluster and can be a problem if not connected to correctly, but not the headlights. I think your dealer is lacking understanding of electrical circuits.

2020+ RT might be different. I haven't looked at those wiring diagrams.

 

[Peteoz]

That's correct, I can switch them on or off independant of Hi/Lo mode. As mentioned its not what I wanted but the dealership stated that many issues arise when the lighting circuit is tapped for a signal for a relay. I provided a solid state relay instead of a mechanical one and they still felt problems would arise. I go in for the 75k service in mid Jan and I'm going to ask if they had any experience with my bypass relay.

I tapped into my light circuit, with a relay, for my driving lights on my F3 and experienced zero issues in 5 years, Askitee. As Idaho says, the headlight circuits are different from the indicator circuits. Would that dealer happen to be Lake & V????. I had a couple of bad experiences there (being told I didn’t need a wheel alignment, but needed 27 psi in my front tyres as an example), and haven’t been back…..I now ride to Lismore. My major concern is that the first vehicle inspection that isn’t done by that particular dealer will see you run into an issue as they always check that driving light functionality only works on high beam.

It would be worthwhile asking the dealer what happens if you get pulled over during the day as the highway patrol have seen you accidentally (you have activated the switch accidentally and haven’t noticed) riding with your driving lights on, check your vehicle and find it doesn’t conform to standards. Will they be wearing any fine/fix?

Pete

 

[askitee]

I tapped into my light circuit, with a relay, for my driving lights on my F3 and experienced zero issues in 5 years, Askitee. As Idaho says, the headlight circuits are different from the indicator circuits. Would that dealer happen to be Lake & V????. I had a couple of bad experiences there (being told I didn’t need a wheel alignment, but needed 27 psi in my front tyres as an example), and haven’t been back…..I now ride to Lismore. My major concern is that the first vehicle inspection that isn’t done by that particular dealer will see you run into an issue as they always check that driving light functionality only works on high beam.

It would be worthwhile asking the dealer what happens if you get pulled over during the day as the highway patrol have seen you accidentally (you have activated the switch accidentally and haven’t noticed) riding with your driving lights on, check your vehicle and find it doesn’t conform to standards. Will they be wearing any fine/fix?

Pete

Westerns at Penrith.

I saw merit in what he was saying.

There was also an ex Fraser's mechanic living here in town with a '14RT - he also felt the canbus would have an issue. Then an Auto Electrician I spoke to at a function about using different relays felt I would invite problems and suggested I go with a solid state - his 1st question was - does the RT have canbus? He felt the canbus would throw a fit and the best way to avoid was the SS relay if I had to put one in the circuit

I really would prefer they get their signal from the hi Beam - its quite a p.i.t.a. when travelling something like the Putty rd late at night and you have to dive and find the Driving light switch each time I need to turn them off. I don't bother with the hi beams as you don't know they are on when the BD's are lit.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Then an Auto Electrician I spoke to at a function about using different relays felt I would invite problems and suggested I go with a solid state - his 1st question was - does the RT have canbus? He felt the canbus would throw a fit and the best way to avoid was the SS relay if I had to put one in the circuit

I'm somewhat guessing here but based on what bit I have read about canbus they're thinking in terms of the lighting devices themselves being canbus. BMW, I believe, and some automobiles use a variation of the canbus system wherein all the lights are fed from one pair of wires. The body computer, or whatever, sends a message of the sort, "headlight turn on bright". The headlight processor reads the message and turns on its switch. In other words the power circuit itself does not get switched on and off. It stays powered all the time. The devices that are connected to it do the switching in themselves. That's why tapping into the circuit can cause problems because the relay may induce spurious signals in the circuit.

The Spyder CanBus is not at this level of sophistication. The lights are passive and when the power circuit to them is energized they light up. That's why there's no problem tapping into them for relay activation.

 

[askitee]

I'm somewhat guessing here but based on what bit I have read about canbus they're thinking in terms of the lighting devices themselves being canbus. BMW, I believe, and some automobiles use a variation of the canbus system wherein all the lights are fed from one pair of wires. The body computer, or whatever, sends a message of the sort, "headlight turn on bright". The headlight processor reads the message and turns on its switch. In other words the power circuit itself does not get switched on and off. It stays powered all the time. The devices that are connected to it do the switching in themselves. That's why tapping into the circuit can cause problems because the relay may induce spurious signals in the circuit.

The Spyder CanBus is not at this level of sophistication. The lights are passive and when the power circuit is energized they light up. That's why there's no problem tapping into them for relay activation.

This is what I am aware of. Some systems monitor the voltage/current to determine if there is a fault. This has existed in servers and some Pc's since the 90'S where they sense the speed, voltage and current draw so that if there is any variation they report a fault.

I have also wondered if canbus's "reach" varies by country too - I have read documents here in Australia that in time our trailers (box, boat, caravan, semi) will have to be Canbus compliant - if a tail light is out then a fault is reported via canbus etc. It led me to wonder if that was why BRP no longer sell them here in Aus.

I'll be pretty pumped if all this means I can tap the Hi beam for a signal - I need the same fore my 622 trailer reversing lights.

 

[Peter Aawen]

This is what I am aware of. Some systems monitor the voltage/current to determine if there is a fault. This has existed in servers and some Pc's since the 90'S where they sense the speed, voltage and current draw so that if there is any variation they report a fault.

I have also wondered if canbus's "reach" varies by country too - I have read documents here in Australia that in time our trailers (box, boat, caravan, semi) will have to be Canbus compliant - if a tail light is out then a fault is reported via canbus etc. It led me to wonder if that was why BRP no longer sell them here in Aus.

I'll be pretty pumped if all this means I can tap the Hi beam for a signal - I need the same fore my 622 trailer reversing lights.

There's quite a few of us who've done this to drive the relay to activate our Driving Lights/Spots (& more ) here in Oz without any hassles... will it work for you? :dontknow: But I certainly think it's worth giving it a shot!! :thumbup:

As for the trailer & activating reversing lights, I haven't played with too many Spyder's trailers &/or their wiring, so I just don't really know bout them?? Maybe one of the guys from OzSpyderRyders who does have a trailer might be able help? Noboot possibly, but I think he's somewhere in North Taswegia at the moment & could be hard to catch; or maybe Mick from the Atherton Tablelands?? Probably worth a shot tho?! hyea:

 

[askitee]

There's quite a few of us who've done this to drive the relay to activate our Driving Lights/Spots (& more ) here in Oz without any hassles... will it work for you? :dontknow: But I certainly think it's worth giving it a shot!! :thumbup:

As for the trailer & activating reversing lights, I haven't played with too many Spyder's trailers &/or their wiring, so I just don't really know bout them?? Maybe one of the guys from OzSpyderRyders who does have a trailer might be able help? Noboot possibly, but I think he's somewhere in North Taswegia at the moment & could be hard to catch; or maybe Mick from the Atherton Tablelands?? Probably worth a shot tho?! hyea:

Thanks Peter,

I have tested the reversing lights in the trailer and they work, and I've wired the circuit to my bypass relay. I just wasn't sure where to tap the reversing light circuit to get the signal.

 

[EdMat]

- I need the same fore my 622 trailer reversing lights.

I see you have solved your problem with backup lighting but for others that don't have backup lights on their trailer you can replace the backup bulbs with bright LED versions.

These are the bulbs I got from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Phinlion-Lumens-103-SMD-Projector-Reverse/dp/B07SYPMRR8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=31J0H19174NAU&keywords=Phinlion%2B2800%2BLumens&qid=1672676332&sprefix=phinlion%2B2800%2Blumens%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-1&th=1