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Drive Belt Broke

jthornton

New member
I was quite surprised to have the drive belt break today on the 2012 RT. I was lucky it was on a busy 4 lane during rush hour which only lasts 30 minutes here but busy none the the less. I had one fellow stop and offer assistance loading it on the trailer and was happy to see that.

The RT only has 18k miles... the engine maybe 2k. it was a clean break and all the fibers broke at the same place except 2, so I'm suspecting a faulty belt.

I've not looked close but how much fun is it to put a new one on?

JT
 
Wow...!!

Very strange on such low mileage. Tend to agree in it's being faulty... glad you were able to get out of there safely. Replacing them is not that bad. :thumbup:
 
The rubber looks pristine, no sign of deterioration at all and I know what rubber looks like when it has deteriorated from sun exposure.

JT

JT, I don't think there is any Rubber in the drive belt..... I don't know about ill effects of the sun on the materials it is made from …… Mike :ohyea:
 
JT, I don't think there is any Rubber in the drive belt..... I don't know about ill effects of the sun on the materials it is made from …… Mike :ohyea:

Howdy;

Sure there is - straight from BRP:

- High-tensile strength carbon cord and HNBR rubber construction delivers impressive durability, superior flexibility and reduced noise, while resisting abrasion.

- Tooth-side fabric composed of special low-friction fiber.


Regarding breakage:

- Exposure to Ozone and numerous other atmospheric contaminants that affect rubber and composites don't require exposure to sunlight

- Constant, repetitive dynamic stresses from rotation while in use will induce failure over time - for ANY belt system

- Over-spec tension

- Chit happens. Buy/install a new one, ensure there are NO obvious pre-existing failure modes (teeth, alignment, burrs, tension, etc), move on and enjoy. It's just an effin' BELT. This is just too simple to make more complicated, - or belabor over....

Cheers
E
 
Howdy;

Sure there is - straight from BRP:

- High-tensile strength carbon cord and HNBR rubber construction delivers impressive durability, superior flexibility and reduced noise, while resisting abrasion.

- Tooth-side fabric composed of special low-friction fiber.


Regarding breakage:

- Exposure to Ozone and numerous other atmospheric contaminants that affect rubber and composites don't require exposure to sunlight

- Constant, repetitive dynamic stresses from rotation while in use will induce failure over time - for ANY belt system

- Over-spec tension

- Chit happens. Buy/install a new one, ensure there are NO obvious pre-existing failure modes (teeth, alignment, burrs, tension, etc), move on and enjoy. It's just an effin' BELT. This is just too simple to make more complicated, - or belabor over....

Cheers
E

Thank you for clearing up that Myth :yes::clap: …...….. Mike :ohyea:
 
Got the belt changed, the only thing I didn't anticipate was having to take the shifter arm off but it was marked with a dot on the shaft so no big issue getting it back on correctly.

I'm using a Krikit II to set the belt tension and my notes have it at 100lbs with a 2013 at 235lbs wheel elevated. Quite a big difference. Is there a current setting for the 2012 belt tension 100lbs looks way to loose to me?

JT
 
Right, age not miles have an effect on the belts. Same with tires and anything else made of rubber or plastic. They deteriorate over time. A set of tires with only 500 miles on them might be unsafe if they are 7 or 8 years old.......... even if they show no signs of deterioration. I guess you know that tires have their birth date stamped on them so you can see how long they sat in some hot warehouse before they put them on your bike, car, truck, whatever.

rebuyer.com/education/how-to-determine-the-age-of-your-tires
 
Hey JT. Looking up Ron’s original notes - with wheel ON the ground, the range was 130 - 160lbs with the Krikit. With wheel elevated, the range was 67 - 135lbs. So, 100lbs would be middle of the range with wheel elevated. Your notes would be correct for wheel elevated.

Of course, there was that TST that allowed a lower tension in order to reduce belt vibration. It wasn’t mandatory, just established a lower tension to try. The lower limit from the TST was 270 N with wheel elevated, which is something like 60 lbs on the krikit.

And yes the specs increased starting in 2013.
 
Got the belt changed, the only thing I didn't anticipate was having to take the shifter arm off but it was marked with a dot on the shaft so no big issue getting it back on correctly.

I'm using a Krikit II to set the belt tension and my notes have it at 100lbs with a 2013 at 235lbs wheel elevated. Quite a big difference. Is there a current setting for the 2012 belt tension 100lbs looks way to loose to me?

JT

2012 RT with wheel off the ground "DRIVE BELT TENSION (PARTS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE AND REAR WHEEL LIFTED)
450 N ± 150 N " If you convert N to lbs it is 67 lbs to 134 lbs, 450N = 101 lbs
 
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Hey JT. Looking up Ron’s original notes - with wheel ON the ground, the range was 130 - 160lbs with the Krikit. With wheel elevated, the range was 67 - 135lbs. So, 100lbs would be middle of the range with wheel elevated. Your notes would be correct for wheel elevated.

Of course, there was that TST that allowed a lower tension in order to reduce belt vibration. It wasn’t mandatory, just established a lower tension to try. The lower limit from the TST was 270 N with wheel elevated, which is something like 60 lbs on the krikit.

And yes the specs increased starting in 2013.

Hey Doug,

I got 160 on the ground and 180 with the tensioner in place, it looks right, smells right and passed the thump test as well as the Krikit test. Thanks for verifying my numbers, it's been a long time since I had to tension and align the belt.

JT
 
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