Drive Belt alignment issue

[krb1945]

After trying to align the belt on one of my SM5's three times I need some guidance on correcting an overly sensitive adjustment that goes from one extreme to another in less than 1/4th of a turn on the adjuster :dontknow:.

Drive belt on 08 SM5 goes from pressed tight against the inner flange to 5/16 inch off the outside of sprocket with less than 1/4 turn on right adjuster. Take a 1/8 of turn off the right adjuster and it goes right back against the inner flange. Also I loosen the axle nut out to the end of the threads and then with a hardwood dowl I tap the axle back forward again.
Below is some information about tension, torque and other settings.

Belt tension at 190 to 210 using the Gates mechanical gage. Front sprocket torqued to 89 Foot lbs (backed off 3/4 of a turn then torqued)

Rear axle nut torqued to 96 foot lbs. Riding single up passenger weight 197. Air rear 30 front 18. Rear shock set at 5 front shock 4

No bearing grinding sounds from the rear. All bolts, nuts etc. properly torqued. Wheel has never been off bike. No changes on the rear other than belt tension and alignment. Came from factory with extremely high belt tension... exceeded the gates gage range. Was ridden at with this tension for about 2500 miles before the tension was lowered to new settings recommended by BRP.

My plan right now is to try one more time using a 1/16 inch turn at a time and if this fails... remove the rear wheel and check bearing and other components.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Ken krb1945

 

[mike3069]

The alignment adjustment is VERY sensitive. You may need to be even finer in your last adjustment (lessthan 10 degrees of turn).

Also, you must tighten down the axle nut when checking because this changes the alingment. If you adjust it WITHOUT doing this the adjustment will not be right when you finally do tighten the nut.

Makes it a long process to get it just right.

 

[groundeffect]

The alignment adjustment is VERY sensitive. You may need to be even finer in your last adjustment (lessthan 10 degrees of turn).

Also, you must tighten down the axle nut when checking because this changes the alingment. If you adjust it WITHOUT doing this the adjustment will not be right when you finally do tighten the nut.

Makes it a long process to get it just right.

:agree::agree::agree::agree: Very SMALL adjustments on the tension screws on each side. Yes, tighten the axle nuts each time you slightly adjust.

It can be a long process for the first time around. Best to have it up off the ground, follow the shop manual process. If you get lost or frustrated, perhaps it is a good idea to start over - back off the screws on both sides so the distance described in the manual is the same - distance from washer on the axle to the end of the swing-arm.

Hope that helps, Ken.
Cheers,
Dean

 

[krb1945]

Mike...

thanks for the tips.

I've adjusted the other two and total time took less than 2 hours. The third one has been a bear and after a total time of 3 hours spent it still isn't correct. Ken krb1945.

 

[woodchuck]

drive belt adjustment

thanks for the tips.

I've adjusted the other two and total time took less than 2 hours. The third one has been a bear and after a total time of 3 hours spent it still isn't correct. Ken krb1945.

Like everybody said after making an adjustment, you must tighten the axle nuts to get a true reading. What they don't say is that a belt will track to which ever side is ahead. Either the right side or left side. What I am trying to say is if the belt is riding to far to the left, then you must make your adjustment on the left side. You must tighten the bolt on the left side to move it over to the right. If the belt is to tight then loosen the right side a little bit. If it is riding to far to the right and the belt is tight, then loosen the left side. this must be adjusted a little at a time. Don't make to much of an adjustment. You must also make sure that your drive belt is not to tight with this procedure. It takes a lot of patience duing this. Don't hurry the job. Hope this helps and you understand what I am trying to say. Good luck.

 

[SSG Bean]

I noticed that when I torque the axle nut, the axle "walks" towards the rear of the Spyder. I will be changing my rear tire next weekend, so I am going to try to use a ratchet strap around the hub and the cross section of the swingarm to keep the adjusters tight and ensure the axle does not move upon tightening. It may not work, but it is worth a try if it limits my frustration.

 

[ataDude]

I noticed that when I torque the axle nut, the axle "walks" towards the rear of the Spyder. I will be changing my rear tire next weekend, so I am going to try to use a ratchet strap around the hub and the cross section of the swingarm to keep the adjusters tight and ensure the axle does not move upon tightening. It may not work, but it is worth a try if it limits my frustration.

How you place the wrench on the axle determines whether you pull it (or push it) back out of alignment.

It's been a while but... with the wrench on the right side to tighten (left side only to hold), put the wrench handle on the "top" and push forward/down to tighten... that pulls against the adjusters.

Placing the wrench handle on the "bottom" and pulling it will loosen the adjuster position slightly.

.

 

[groundeffect]

It's been a while but... with the wrench on the right side to tighten (left side only to hold), put the wrench handle on the "top" and push forward/down to tighten... that pulls against the adjusters.

Placing the wrench handle on the "bottom" and pulling it will loosen the adjuster position slightly.

.

:agree:From what I recall that positioning sounds correct and for exactly those reasons. Good point.

 

[bcspyder]

I screwed around with the rear wheel off the ground and small increments but found it was easier on the ground, loosen the axle, make SMALL adjustment, tighten, and ride around the block. Rinse and repeat till right. Amazing how much change a little turn will make. I set the belt tension with the left and fine tune with the right. BTW I have seen quite a range of measurements here, from as low as 120 to as much as 250 with the Krikit. Where is everyone at??

 

[NancysToy]

..... BTW I have seen quite a range of measurements here, from as low as 120 to as much as 250 with the Krikit. Where is everyone at??

The old standard for this type of drive belt is 1/4th twist of the belt 90 degrees), when twisted in the center. Seems to work on the Spyder with the new setting. I was only able to get about 1/8 of a twist before the retensioning, and got 1/4 after...sitting on the ground, no load, and using the thumb and forefinger (with some effort).

 

[krb1945]

I've been tightening the nut by putting my torque wrench handle behind the spyder and pulling up. If I am understanding some of the above post... tightening it this way is making the right the right side move back a wee bit?

I'm going to try it again this afternoon.

I'm sure glad the other two spyders haven't been this much of a problem with belt alignment... maybe the problem is this one is yellow and black and slower than her red/black SE5.

Thanks for all the tips. Ken krb1945

 

[NancysToy]

I've been tightening the nut by putting my torque wrench handle behind the spyder and pulling up. If I am understanding some of the above post... tightening it this way is making the right the right side move back a wee bit?

I'm going to try it again this afternoon.

I'm sure glad the other two spyders haven't been this much of a problem with belt alignment... maybe the problem is this one is yellow and black and slower than her red/black SE5.

Thanks for all the tips. Ken krb1945

If the tensioning screw is tight against the axle, it should not move back...especially when pulling upward instead of toward the rear. More likely the torque is moving the axle forward on the left, which runs the belt out. I tighten the axle with a short ratchet before the final torque with the longer torque wrench, just to avoid movement, and I prefer to pull upward, too. This is an unusual situation, and indicates to me that there is a problem lurking somewhere. Could be just a tolerance issue, with a bit of play, or could be mean imminent failure of a bearing or swingarm bushing. I hope you find the answer.

 

[Bob Denman]

I've noticed that my blet is over on the left side of the spocket... With my vast knowledge and mechanical skill :shocked: it sounds as if it'll head to the dealer's after a long Winter's nap for an adjustment...

 

[krb1945]

Is it possible...

that I might be loosening the axle nut too loose before the adjustment :chat: ? I loosen it all the way to the end of the threads before turning the right adjuster clockwise to get the belt off the inner flange.

That is the way I did the other two spyders and it only took a few minutes to adjust them correctly. Ken krb1945

 

[Campverdefela]

I've been tightening the nut by putting my torque wrench handle behind the spyder and pulling up. If I am understanding some of the above post... tightening it this way is making the right the right side move back a wee bit?

I'm going to try it again this afternoon.

I'm sure glad the other two spyders haven't been this much of a problem with belt alignment... maybe the problem is this one is yellow and black and slower than her red/black SE5.

Thanks for all the tips. Ken krb1945

No way!

 

[mike3069]

that I might be loosening the axle nut too loose before the adjustment :chat: ? I loosen it all the way to the end of the threads before turning the right adjuster clockwise to get the belt off the inner flange.

That is the way I did the other two spyders and it only took a few minutes to adjust them correctly. Ken krb1945

Yes.