• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Drilling a hole in the ignition key

KenAcker

New member
Has anyone done it. Seems like a strange question but better safe than sorry. I don't like not being able to chain my ignition key with other related keys (Corbin saddle bag, Corbin passenger saddle, office key, etc).

I don't think there are any "electronics" hidden under the rubber head of the ignition key but shame on me for not at least asking.
 
The sec key is located in the rubber head. If you drill a hole through it, you will break it. Dealer should have told you that as well. Sorry. There are some other thing that people did on here to make a key mod. Look at Lamonsters..pretty slick.
 
Thanks, guys. The reason I even posed the question was because another poster (not sure which forum) said that he had ordered an ignition key blank from BRP (for less than $7) and then went down to his local hardware store with that blank and one of his original Spyder ignition keys in-hand. He said the key cutter did his thing and the duplicate key worked just fine ( :dontknow: ).

Strange.
 
A cheap key will work the mechanicals. However, to overcome the security system, the upper part of an unmolested stock key must be within about a foot of the handlebar console.


Thanks, guys. The reason I even posed the question was because another poster (not sure which forum) said that he had ordered an ignition key blank from BRP (for less than $7) and then went down to his local hardware store with that blank and one of his original Spyder ignition keys in-hand. He said the key cutter did his thing and the duplicate key worked just fine ( :dontknow: ).

Strange.
 
I personally would not take the chance of damaging the chip in your key. There are those that have done it without damage by drilling in one of the outer corners. If you want a way to add it to your key chain/ring, use the sheath, that is what the hole in the key sheath is for. Ryde Safe and Enjoy:thumbup:
sabunim5:spyder:
 
He might not have been telling the truth! No chip, no function!
The usual cause of this mistaken notion is because the original key is still in the pocket or on the key ring, and is close enough to the security module to trigger it, while the new key does the mechanical work. There was a post here a few days back indicating that the hardware store cut key definitely did not work. You need one original key and a new one to get a new one programmed (and the Spyder, too), and some dealers are not equipped to cut the blank, so you need to get the key, have it cut, then have the dealer program it all. Hold on to your wallet.
-Scotty
 
go ahead...

drill a hole in it let us all know how you ...make out ....muwa...muwa....muwa...
tatvamp.jpg
 
Better not try drilling a hole! The dealer told me definitely NOT to drill a hole in my key when I griped a bit about the "no hole" issue. I just put the key in the sheath, which is on my keychain.
 
There is a plastic sleeve that fits the metal part of the key. You slide the key into it and it clicks in place. The end of the plastic sleve has a hole in it to put the key onto a key ring. You then just pull the key out of the sleeve when you want to use it. My dealer gave me a sleeve for both keys when I bought the Spyder. It's a BRP part that should have come with your keys.

The others are correct. Don't drill the key - it will no longer work.

Juice
 
On the morning I picked up my Spyder, one of the mechanics was going over several thinks. The first thing we went over was keys. He said it was the first thing they went over when he went to school on the Spyder.
First thing was not to lose all keys you needed one to get another programed to work with your Spyder. Second was not to try and drill key, you stood about a 99% chance of destroying the resistor, making the key inoperable.

Wayne
 
I learned this tip from afriend of mine -
attach the plastic Spyder key clip, your alarm remote (if you have one) and a spare house key to a lanyard (one of those I. D badge holders from a trade show works great) and you never have to worry about a hole in your pocket, where did I set down my key, where's the $%^^ alarm remote, etc. They are all right there around your neck! Works for me.
 
Message received. I'm laughing so hard at your immediate and adamant replys that I'm on the verge of snot bubbles. I can see, also, that the "you have messages" light is flashing furiously on my early-morning office phone. No doubt they're from additional SpyderLovers.

I don't particularly trust the sleeve. It's friction based and I fear an untimely separation of sleeve and key ... and having to watch my ride home falling through a storm grate. The click-in-place resistance is (now) noticeably less than when I first drove off the lot. Not to worry ... I'll come up with something that DOES NOT include a drill and bit.

Thanks to everyone. And thanks for the early-morning chuckle. You guys made my day! :D
 
2nd key

I lost my original 2nd key after "securing" it in that stupid sleeve within 1 week after getting my bike. I usually attach my key ring to my belt loop when going to work. No more!!!

The 2nd key cost me $37 to order. Not all key makers can or will cut the blank. The guy at Home Depot wouldn't because of the chip. My dealer found a locksmith on wheels who can meet me at the dealers lot to cut the new key. Then I have to program the key which will cost $40.

If I wander through Walmart and see a ring pouch thats what I'll get for my Christmas stocking.
 
I lost my original 2nd key after "securing" it in that stupid sleeve within 1 week after getting my bike. I usually attach my key ring to my belt loop when going to work. No more!!!

The 2nd key cost me $37 to order. Not all key makers can or will cut the blank. The guy at Home Depot wouldn't because of the chip. My dealer found a locksmith on wheels who can meet me at the dealers lot to cut the new key. Then I have to program the key which will cost $40.

If I wander through Walmart and see a ring pouch thats what I'll get for my Christmas stocking.
You did pretty well, considering that our dealer quoted $184 for a new key, cut and coded. Lots of locksmiths will no longer cut anything but aluminum keys. Some cannot fit the coded keys with the large plastic heads into their machines. Some refuse to cut them because they can't program them, and will not provide a key that "doesn't work". Big bother, as you found, but it may be a necessary evil. I never put ours on a ring. We just attach a big key fob to the sleeve and carry it separately in a pocket. BTW, don't let your wife lock it in the trunk like mine did. Maybe I'll buy her a lanyard for Christmas. :D
-Scotty
 
I lost one of the keys and spent 37.00 to replace it 5.00 to have it cut at the lock smith and now 37.50 to have it programed at my dealer. Talked to the Dallas dealer at the Internatioal bike show sunday and he said that at his shop if you buy the key from them they program it free, makes sence to me.
 
Back
Top