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Dreaded DPS returns

R

RoadHammer

New member
SO i went out for my first ride today,
I was happy, cruising enjoying my day, enjoying my new ISCI handbrakes, enjoying my new Kewlmet air ride suspension, enjoying my new exhaust and to top it off enjoying my givi trunk full of nothing.

Than VSS fault/ DPS and the ever so lovely LIMP MODE kicked in... Great isn't it, just a great way to start off the bike riding season.

The steering from the get go felt like it was on a caffeine overdose. It wanted to steer itself itself to the right about 3 times after limp mode started.

so back to the shop this goes again for the third time.. After a 10 mile opening season ride. This made my day, Im so proud of this bike.
 
one simple thing to check . . .

. . . make sure your fuses are all properly seated. I had the same thing happen over a loose fuse.

Sorry the Champagne 2010 Inauguration ride turned into a bummer.

Tom
 
Was your battery well charged? Having a weak battery, then starting the Spyder to make it weaker, can trigger low voltage problems, especially when the DPS draws down the battery. Some symptoms of a low battery are cascading faults, limp mode, and erratic power steering response.
 
im assuming it is, I fired it up, drove out about 4 miles to the highway with no troubles, and once on the highway 2 miles into my ride i got all the codes and limp mode.

I checked everything out before I left, pushed in the fuses, checked tire pressure etc.
 
RoadHammer said:
im assuming it is, I fired it up, drove out about 4 miles to the highway with no troubles, and once on the highway 2 miles into my ride i got all the codes and limp mode.

I checked everything out before I left, pushed in the fuses, checked tire pressure etc.
Click to expand...
Never pays to assume anything. A marginally charged battery could start a Spyder, which runs down the battery further. Reach a point where you back off on the throttle and drop the rpm, and the voltage can drop enough to trigger the faults. Not saying this is the cause, but after your Spyder was sitting, in cold weather, it would pay to eliminate the possibility, by charging the battery or testing the voltage with a multimeter...or both. The more things you eliminate, the easier to find the cause.
 
NancysToy said:
Never pays to assume anything. A marginally charged battery could start a Spyder, which runs down the battery further. Reach a point where you back off on the throttle and drop the rpm, and the voltage can drop enough to trigger the faults. Not saying this is the cause, but after your Spyder was sitting, in cold weather, it would pay to eliminate the possibility, by charging the battery or testing the voltage with a multimeter...or both. The more things you eliminate, the easier to find the cause.
Click to expand...
I charged it a week ago. I'll dig further into it in the morning.

thanks Scotty
 
RoadHammer said:
SO i went out for my first ride today,
I was happy, cruising enjoying my day, enjoying my new ISCI handbrakes, enjoying my new Kewlmet air ride suspension, enjoying my new exhaust and to top it off enjoying my givi trunk full of nothing.

Than VSS fault/ DPS and the ever so lovely LIMP MODE kicked in... Great isn't it, just a great way to start off the bike riding season.

The steering from the get go felt like it was on a caffeine overdose. It wanted to steer itself itself to the right about 3 times after limp mode started.

so back to the shop this goes again for the third time.. After a 10 mile opening season ride. This made my day, Im so proud of this bike.
Click to expand...
Glad you made it back home safe. :thumbup:
Hope your :spyder:feels better with a new charge.
Dennis
 
Looking at the positive side :2thumbs: at least your Spyder steered itself to the right (possibly off the road into a ditch?) instead of to the left and into oncoming traffic like mine and several others did !! :yikes:
If you can see this as a sarcastic remark you would be 100% correct !!
 
Hopefully getting a full charge on the battery will correct the issue you are having with the cascading codes. If it doesn't, then please keep us up to date as to what the dealer does to it for you.
 
Always Charged!!

RoadHammer said:
I charged it a week ago. I'll dig further into it in the morning.

thanks Scotty
Click to expand...

Smack a Battery Tender on your unit and leave it hooked to your unit 24/7......That will end the wonder if it was charged.......it will always be at full charge when you roll out, unless you have a faulty battery that won't take a charge!!
 
RoadHammer said:
Is there a way i can clear the codes myself or does it need to be cleared through buds ?
Click to expand...
Previously occurred codes can only be read by BUDS, and are cleared there. They do not affect operation of the Spyder, they only serve as diagnostics. I understand they can be cleared by disconnecting the battery, but I cannot confirm that. I would recommend against that approach, anyway. If it turns out you have a problem other than a low battery, the codes and the order they occurred in will be very helpful to your technician. If you have faults still showing on the display, or a check engine light, those codes are still active, and will not clear. The exact code can be retrieved by BUDS, or by following the retrieval procedure in your manual.
 
Last edited:
i have been happy with http://www.digitalmeter.com/ this little voltmeter. On the only occasion that trouble codes appeared I saw voltage drop into the 9s just before it happened.
If things get funky on my Spyder I will at least have voltage info to go with my troubles.

Good luck, I hope you can get yours fixed quickly.
 
When mine went haywire at the track in Daytona, the key had to be out of the ignition for at least 1 minute, I believe, before my check engine light and the Check DPS scroll finally went away. It may have been 2 minutes, but when I shut it down on the track for 30 seconds that definitely wasn't enough to clear them.
 
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