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Drag Racing Techniques

I would venture a guess that you'll want your shift point to drop you back to your torque peak...
That way the bike is pulling with everyhing that it's got... :thumbup:
 
SHIFT POINT

What is the perfect rpms to push the shift button? The bike makes peak torque at 5,000 and peak horsepower at 7,500 correct? (Talking RS). So where do you ideally want to shift? If the numbers I listed are correct, I would disagree with an 8,000 rpm shift. It would have to be somewhere between the peak rpm & peak hp:dontknow:

With an SM it's more critical because of the RPM drop when shifting unless you speed shift without the CLUTCH ( not reccomended ). But evn the SE has some RPM drop and when you consider the weight of the Spyder ....IMHO maximum TORQUE is not as important as the HORSEPOWER......You do not want to break the tire loose.....TRACTION is everything.......just sayin.....Mike :2excited:.................Your a Sno-mobiler and you know what happens when you have EXCESSIVE track spin.......................You dig yourself a BIG Hole :roflblack:
 
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How would you launch it?

Off the line I think you'd want to launch it at peak torque, and manage the traction by slipping the clutch on an SM. Just like launching a bike.

But on the SE the clutch fully engages at 3500rpm, can you hold it with the brake and bring the revs up past 7000 without it going into nanny mode or burning up the clutch?
 
With an SM it's more critical because of the RPM drop when shifting unless you speed shift without the CLUTCH ( not reccomended ). But evn the SE has some RPM drop and when you consider the weight of the Spyder ....IMHO maximum TORQUE is not as important as the HORSEPOWER......You do not want to break the tire loose.....TRACTION is everything.......just sayin.....Mike :2excited:.................Your a Sno-mobiler and you know what happens when you have EXCESSIVE track spin.......................You dig yourself a BIG Hole :roflblack:
Sometimes you can find good traction down there:roflblack:


Off the line I think you'd want to launch it at peak torque, and manage the traction by slipping the clutch on an SM. Just like launching a bike.

But on the SE the clutch fully engages at 3500rpm, can you hold it with the brake and bring the revs up past 7000 without it going into nanny mode or burning up the clutch?

The rear tire will power through the brakes before 3,500rpm and you will be doing a burnout
 
I have shifted many times from 2>3>4>5 without using the clutch. Not power shifting but just trying it to see how well it works.
It is actually quite easy. I learned to do this on my VW's years ago and my clutches would outlast the engine!
The only thing I would say is with the SM, because the RT is so heavy, you really have to slip that mother a lot when starting from a dead stop.
This does worry me a bit about clutch life.

Bob
 
But on the SE the clutch fully engages at 3500rpm, can you hold it with the brake and bring the revs up past 7000 without it going into nanny mode or burning up the clutch?

No, this is not a torque converter, it is a centrifugal clutch engagement. If you bring the rpm to the clutch stall speed with the brakes on, you will either stall the Spyder or the brakes will give and you will spin the tire. It is also very, very possible to damage the clutch if your rpm is just a little lower than the stall speed but above the point where engagement begins.
 
WOT

+1, I can speed shift without the clutch on my SM too, though not at WOT.

Yo 125, we are talking DRAG RACING HERE not going to get DONUTS ..............OPPS ......me Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad .......forget the Donuts part and enter whatever you like :yikes: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: .....:agree:.....Mike
 
Good luck and keep us posted! Remember to get video and post it if anything explodes and spreads flaming debris all over!
 
Thanx for feedback on drag skills. As requested pics and results. What a rush & blast.



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