DPS Check Question

[Kraut]

Background: After turning at an intersection yesterday, I had the orange screen "Check DPS" come on momentarily followed by the alternating orange handlebar warning at the bottom of my digital display. I really did not notice a bad degradation of the steering but it did seem stiffer. Scoot3r is a 2010 RT SE5 bought out of the crate in June, 2011 with the DPS recall being performed as part of the set-up. Scoot3r now has 38,000 miles so I guess it's not "too unreasonable" for the DPS to go out. I have gone through the archives and found a couple of threads on the DPS. By the way, I did the shut down, remove key and restart. I still have the momentary "Check DPS" on start-up with the alternating orange handlebar warning.
Question: Can I expect to see the dreaded Limp Home mode? I understand that I need to get Scoot3r to my dealer; I would rather ride the 150 miles than haul on a trailer but if I gotta haul, I'll haul. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks- Jim

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

There's no indication in the manuals that a DPS Fault will trigger a Limp Home Mode. Some things that you can check for yourself would be the main fuse in the fuse box under the seat. It's a 40a fuse. One of the square ones. See if you have any codes. The thing is an electrical power hog, so a degraded positive or negative battery connection has been known to generate the Check DPS warnings. Otherwise, the bike is drivable with no DPS. Your dealer would have to put it on BUDS to know for sure whether you just need a sensor reset or have the unit replaced. Expensive. Yours is the second 2010 in two weeks that has come on here with a DPS Fault. Very interesting.

 

[Kraut]

There's no indication in the manuals that a DPS Fault will trigger a Limp Home Mode. Some things that you can check for yourself would be the main fuse in the fuse box under the seat. It's a 40a fuse. One of the square ones. See if you have any codes. The thing is an electrical power hog, so a degraded positive or negative battery connection has been known to generate the Check DPS warnings. Otherwise, the bike is drivable with no DPS. Your dealer would have to put it on BUDS to know for sure whether you just need a sensor reset or have the unit replaced. Expensive. Yours is the second 2010 in two weeks that has come on here with a DPS Fault. Very interesting.

Thanks for the quick response and manuals check! I'll check the fuse and the terminals. Of course it's super expensive-planned obstelesence? Spelling! obsolescence (Can't believe I used to teach English)

 

[JRWW]

I have a 2010 RTS SE5 with the same problem. I believe the recall was done prior to purchase however will only know when the DPS unit is removed. My bike has only done 10,000 miles and I'm not impressed. Looking at AU$2,400 just for the DPS plus labour.

I have done all the usual things re fuses, battery connections etc. Bike is booked in for 12th Oct to have the unit replaced. Looking in the mean time to see if the unit can be repaired however I believe the DPS becomes a boat anchor!!!!


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[SpyderAnn01]

Did you try to pull up the code? Push the Mode, Set and Turn Signal buttons at the same time - with the key on. You will either have a blank screen - meaning that the error is no longer active - or a code consisting of a letter and 4 numbers. Let us know what the error is.

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking..

I have a 2010 RTS SE5 with the same problem. I believe the recall was done prior to purchase however will only know when the DPS unit is removed. My bike has only done 10,000 miles and I'm not impressed. Looking at AU$2,400 just for the DPS plus labour.

I have done all the usual things re fuses, battery connections etc. Bike is booked in for 12th Oct to have the unit replaced. Looking in the mean time to see if the unit can be repaired however I believe the DPS becomes a boat anchor!!!!


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If you are having to do it yourself..not warranty..cheapcycleparts.com has that unit oem new for $1210.99. :thumbup:

 

[JRWW]

Yes, however that equates to $1670 Australian dollars plus shipping. Also a little difficult re warranty.

 

[loisk]

Yes, however that equates to $1670 Australian dollars plus shipping. Also a little difficult re warranty.

I know you've probably already done this, but, new battery time? ?
Not good news anyway.

 

[JRWW]

My battery is on CTek charger whilst garaged and is showing around 13.9 volts when the engine is running. I have two codes PO552 & PO551 which is torque sensor shorted and torque sensor open DPS damaged.


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[Aracknoid]

DPS

Background: After turning at an intersection yesterday, I had the orange screen "Check DPS" come on momentarily followed by the alternating orange handlebar warning at the bottom of my digital display. I really did not notice a bad degradation of the steering but it did seem stiffer. Scoot3r is a 2010 RT SE5 bought out of the crate in June, 2011 with the DPS recall being performed as part of the set-up. Scoot3r now has 38,000 miles so I guess it's not "too unreasonable" for the DPS to go out. I have gone through the archives and found a couple of threads on the DPS. By the way, I did the shut down, remove key and restart. I still have the momentary "Check DPS" on start-up with the alternating orange handlebar warning.
Question: Can I expect to see the dreaded Limp Home mode? I understand that I need to get Scoot3r to my dealer; I would rather ride the 150 miles than haul on a trailer but if I gotta haul, I'll haul. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks- Jim

Kraut, a question: Have checked the battery power under load? If you are using a volt meter you will not get the operating voltage. The torque sensor is voltage driven, DPS will react due to the voltage.

Good Luck

 

[billybovine]

My battery is on CTek charger whilst garaged and is showing around 13.9 volts when the engine is running. I have two codes PO552 & PO551 which is torque sensor shorted and torque sensor open DPS damaged.


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The torque sensor is internal to the DPS and not serviceable. Sorry new DPS unit is needed.

 

[billybovine]

Background: After turning at an intersection yesterday, I had the orange screen "Check DPS" come on momentarily followed by the alternating orange handlebar warning at the bottom of my digital display. I really did not notice a bad degradation of the steering but it did seem stiffer. Scoot3r is a 2010 RT SE5 bought out of the crate in June, 2011 with the DPS recall being performed as part of the set-up. Scoot3r now has 38,000 miles so I guess it's not "too unreasonable" for the DPS to go out. I have gone through the archives and found a couple of threads on the DPS. By the way, I did the shut down, remove key and restart. I still have the momentary "Check DPS" on start-up with the alternating orange handlebar warning.
Question: Can I expect to see the dreaded Limp Home mode? I understand that I need to get Scoot3r to my dealer; I would rather ride the 150 miles than haul on a trailer but if I gotta haul, I'll haul. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks- Jim

As some have said check your battery connections, clean and tight. You do not mention any trouble starting so the battery will be more than good enough to support the DPS spike loads with the engine running. If you are having trouble starting have the battery load tested. After that when the fault warning is actively displayed. Pull the fault code. Press Mode, Set and Turn Cancel buttons all at the same time.

 

[Kraut]

Thanks for all your input folks. Heading out to the garage and checking things out- I'll let you know what I find.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

My battery is on CTek charger whilst garaged and is showing around 13.9 volts when the engine is running. I have two codes PO552 & PO551 which is torque sensor shorted and torque sensor open DPS damaged.


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Not a reliable indicator of battery health. If it's several years it can show good voltage but not have amp capacity.

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[Kraut]

Here's what I found:

Discounted battery- Replaced it in May. I hook up my battery tender any time I'm not riding for three or more days. but I checked the terminals and all clean and tight.
Checked the 40a fuses- All three are good (my old hand's thin skin took a couple of hits).
Check the codes- Displaying a P5502 and P5501 same as BillyBovine so looks like DPS replacement time :banghead::banghead: :cus:.

 

[Peter Aawen]

I'd still do a load test on the battery (preferably whilst starting or at least simulating a starting load) before you start spending money on anything else!! :shocked: Having 13.whatever volts showing while the engine is running simply shows you that your charging system is working; and you could still have a dead or dying battery (even if it's just a couple of weeks old - battery age doesn't really mean schmick!) that'll push out all sorts of faults while you are riding if/when revs drop or the system is loaded up!! :sour:

That said, I reckon that far more Spyders have momentary flashes of 'Check DPS' type faults while they are being ridden than you'd ever expect, it's just that most ryders rarely notice the very momentary flash; and besides, unless the fault is ongoing or produces a series of fault codes, they generally only mean you did something the Spyder objected to at that given moment & now it's over it & you can go back to ryding without a care - the flash type indications that don't stay on rarely indicate that there's anything significant or long term wrong!!

Sooo, Unless the 'Check DPS' & orange handlebar lights actually STAY ON after you start it up & while you are running the engine at faster than idle revs, then I doubt you've got a real problem with those components; it's far more likely to be a dead or dying battery or a poor connection or earth somewhere in the wiring than it is to be an intermittent fault in a component like that!! And if the DPS actually DID have a fault, you'd know PDQ & you wouldn't want to ryde until it was fixed - is it always hard to steer or does it have odd 'pulses' in how much assist your steering gets?? If you didn't answer Yes to either of those questions, then just load check the battery &/or all the connections & earth, & if there's nothing obvious to fix there, just Ryde on, Ryde More, & Worry Less!! :thumbup:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Sooo, Unless the 'Check DPS' & orange handlebar lights actually STAY ON after you start it up & while you are running the engine at faster than idle revs, then I doubt you've got a real problem with those components; it's far more likely to be a dead or dying battery or a poor connection or earth somewhere in the wiring than it is to be an intermittent fault in a component like that!! And if the DPS actually DID have a fault, you'd know PDQ & you wouldn't want to ryde until it was fixed - is it always hard to steer or does it have odd 'pulses' in how much assist your steering gets?? If you didn't answer Yes to either of those questions, then just load check the battery &/or all the connections & earth, & if there's nothing obvious to fix there, just Ryde on, Ryde More, & Worry Less!! :thumbup:

When the DPS crapped out in my 2013 RT the "Check DPS" error did not stay on the screen. But, the in and out of the assist was very obvious while going around curves.

 

[JRWW]

Well AU$2,407 later and DPS is replaced. A very big thank you to Terry Smith at Melbourne Seadoo.
Time to forget disaster and move on and enjoy riding my spyder.

 

[billybovine]

Happy to hear it is fixed. Sorry there was not a cheaper option.

 

[Chris Sloper]

DPS fault code..

Hi all, apologies if I have posted this in the wrong place, but I need a little help.
My Spyder was recently pulled out of winter storage and it started up fine. I have had it on a battery tender whilst garaged.
The engine light stayed on and the dash displayed a "check DPS" message. I've checked the fault codes and it comes up with P0551 and P0552, torque sensor faulty and torque sensor grounded.
I've checked the battery connections and earth, all good there. I'm assuming that the battery is ok as it cranked and started with no problem. Though it hasn't been load tested.
My local dealer thinks that the DPS unit has spiked and has then failed because of that.
The bike is a 2010 and well out of warranty. A new DPS looks to be NZ$3000 plus labour, so I really need to try and eliminate possible failure causes before I spend a huge amount of money.
This is where you guys come in....
What are the next steps I can take to try and effect a fix before I buy shares in the dealership?
Your thoughts and advice would be much appreciated. Thanks, Chris.