Doubts with battery charge

[mcalva]

This morning the RT did not start by low battery. I started with a portable starter battery without problems and I made 20 km by motorway to more than 5,000 rpm to see if it loaded something.
The battery is new (1 month) The voltmeter indicates 14 volts when the motorcycle is running. Is that voltage normal or should it go higher at high revs?
I tink my daily trajects from home to work are very short and at very low revs and then the consumption are more than charge but in the other side I don't have electrical outlets in the parking lot because it's community to charge with charger. :banghead:
So, the only way I can think of keeping the battery charged is to make a "technical" exit of a few hundred kilometers a week. Is there any other way?

 

[billybovine]

14V or so when running is correct. That shows the charging system is working.
Just because the battery is only one month old does not prove that is good. You can have it load tested to make sure it is not the problem.
A loose battery connection can cause the problem you describe. Check that.
May be something is using power while off. Start with any accessories that you or anyone else has added. Disconnect them and see if the problem continues.
Could be a bad radio. That was a problem for 2010 models I believe. Maybe also the 2011's.

If you drive your Spyder almost everyday and the engine runs for more than 10 minutes at a time. There is no need to put it on a battery tender. That would be just hiding a problem. Not fixing it.

 

[Bob Denman]

14V or so when running is correct. That shows the charging system is working.
If you drive your Spyder almost everyday and the engine runs for more than 10 minutes at a time. There is no need to put it on a battery tender. That would be just hiding a problem. Not fixing it.

:agree: It's a Band-Aid solution, for a problem that requires stitches... :shocked:

 

[Peter Aawen]

I dunno Mcalva, I reckon that only 10 mins of low rev running just might not be enough to restore the start drain on a 2011 RT (that is what you have, isn't it?) Your 2011 RT Spyder has the V-twin motor & the magneto, & they take A LOT longer to put back the battery power you drain just by starting than the Alternator charged 1330's do, plus I'm told the magneto really needs revs of up over about 3500-4000 to let the it produce enough real juice to do it!! So if you are just starting it, idling a bit & then pottering off to work & basically just fast idling along for only about 10 mins or so at revs mainly less than those mentioned, then as you surmised, you are draining your battery more and more as each 10 min ride passes!! :shocked:

My 2013 RT with the same charging system also doesn't like those short lo-rev runs, & I too have learnt from bitter experience that a week/10 days of those short slow runs just won't keep the battery charged!! It'll last quite a few weeks left alone & not run at all, but as soon as you start doing those short lo-revs runs it starts sucking the life outta the battery & the magneto is just not up to putting anything useful back quickly, & certainly not without 30mins or more of over 4000 rpm running every week - the longer the run the better, for it AND for me!!

Given all that, I reckon you are on the right track to consider doing an hour long fast run somewhere each week, maybe you should give it a try & see if it makes a difference?! :dontknow: I'd still be very carefully checking that all the battery & earth connections are clean & tight, just to make sure that something less than suitable there isn't making it all worse, and I'd certainly consider giving the battery a good charge from a proper charger now/first, just to make sure it's all in good condition before you start! Then try giving it a good long hi-rev run at least once a week & see if that helps it keep the charge up to the battery! I think you'll be pleasantly surprised... :thumbup:

 

[Easy Rider]

Was the new battery fully charged with an external charger BEFORE it was put into service ??

 

[Chupaca]

All of the above...

Good advise and definitely start with the connections. Your charging system seems to be fine but it may not be getting back to the battery as it should..:thumbup:

 

[mcalva]

Good morning.
Yes, the battery was properly charged before installing it. In fact now I have two batteries because the old perfectly maintains the load.
I changed it as a precaution because it was the original one and it is already 6 years old.
I'll check the connections but I'm afraid the problem will be in the loading system that maybe is a bit undersized for this model.
I used my Honda VTX1300 for the same little jorneys and I never had that kind of problem although it is true that it had an alternator and no "extra" electronics to feed.
OK! I'll be positive. So I already have a point to start and if nothing is wrong I will enjoy the Spyder doing more kilometers!. Fortunately in the Mediterranean zone we can go by motorcycle almost all year.
Thank you to everyone!

 

[jroberts650]

Use a solar charger with at least 5 watts output. Since you can't use the outlets this is your best option. Make sure to get one that has a "float" feature once the battery is full. I've used one on mine for several years and have never had a problem with low voltage

 

[CA Railwhale]

solar

Use a solar charger with at least 5 watts output. Since you can't use the outlets this is your best option. Make sure to get one that has a "float" feature once the battery is full. I've used one on mine for several years and have never had a problem with low voltage

I use a solar panel to keep the house batteries on my RV charged and it works well. The only issue I see for him is that it sounds like his parking area is unsecured. Unless he can figure out a way to lock the panel to the Spyder, It's going to grow legs sooner or later. One alternative for him would be to keep a battery on a charger in his residence and change batteries before rides. It would be a pain in the butt, but at least he'd have a fully charged battery onthe bike for peace of mind when he rode.

 

[2dogs]

Check this link out

Good morning.
Yes, the battery was properly charged before installing it. In fact now I have two batteries because the old perfectly maintains the load.
I changed it as a precaution because it was the original one and it is already 6 years old.
I'll check the connections but I'm afraid the problem will be in the loading system that maybe is a bit undersized for this model.
I used my Honda VTX1300 for the same little jorneys and I never had that kind of problem although it is true that it had an alternator and no "extra" electronics to feed.
OK! I'll be positive. So I already have a point to start and if nothing is wrong I will enjoy the Spyder doing more kilometers!. Fortunately in the Mediterranean zone we can go by motorcycle almost all year.
Thank you to everyone!

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200660262_200660262

I've bought several of these twin backs and use them on everything I have that sits around idle for long periods of time and that have batteries. Lawnmower, jet ski, ATV, truck, boat, houseboat, dump trailer, tractors, snowmobile and more. They work very very well and are waterproof. If you need to make a longer run than the wire connectors that come with them, you can get a 25' long wire connector from Cycle Gear. The end connectors are common SAE connectors. The only things I've found that needs attention with these solar tenders is, keep the snow off them and when the sun gets low in the sky you'ii need to tip them a little or move them to keep them at the proper angle to the sun.

 

[sylvester]

Good morning.
Yes, the battery was properly charged before installing it. In fact now I have two batteries because the old perfectly maintains the load.
I changed it as a precaution because it was the original one and it is already 6 years old.
I'll check the connections but I'm afraid the problem will be in the loading system that maybe is a bit undersized for this model.
I used my Honda VTX1300 for the same little jorneys and I never had that kind of problem although it is true that it had an alternator and no "extra" electronics to feed.
OK! I'll be positive. So I already have a point to start and if nothing is wrong I will enjoy the Spyder doing more kilometers!. Fortunately in the Mediterranean zone we can go by motorcycle almost all year.
Thank you to everyone!

I have a 17 F-3 T battery shot craps after six months bad cell, you may just have a bad battery:shocked:

 

[mcalva]

Looking for solar panels .....

Could I use a solar panel permanentlly conected to the battery while the spyder is running to help posible charge and avoid
discharge?

So my idea is charge/maintain the battery by helping the magnet when the spyder is running and take advantage from the sun while
stopped on the tryp.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Could I use a solar panel permanentlly conected to the battery while the spyder is running to help posible charge and avoid
discharge?

So my idea is charge/maintain the battery by helping the magnet when the spyder is running and take advantage from the sun while
stopped on the tryp.

You mean have them permanently mounted on your Spyder? If so I would say it's not a practical idea because panels that are large enough to provide an output that will be useful are going to too big to comfortably fit anywhere on the Spyder. I'd also be concerned about the bike charging system back feeding into the solar panel and causing problems. To avoid that you could use a diode to prevent reverse current but then that reduces the voltage coming from the panels. Panels are practical when you're parked but not when you're moving.

 

[Easy Rider]

Could I use a solar panel permanentlly conected to the battery while the spyder is running to help posible charge and avoid
discharge?

Yes. But absolutely, positively NOT necessary in most normal circumstances.
Trying to do that might cause more problems than it solves.

 

[Wildrice]

This morning the RT did not start by low battery. I started with a portable starter battery without problems and I made 20 km by motorway to more than 5,000 rpm to see if it loaded something.
The battery is new (1 month) The voltmeter indicates 14 volts when the motorcycle is running. Is that voltage normal or should it go higher at high revs?
I tink my daily trajects from home to work are very short and at very low revs and then the consumption are more than charge but in the other side I don't have electrical outlets in the parking lot because it's community to charge with charger. :banghead:
So, the only way I can think of keeping the battery charged is to make a "technical" exit of a few hundred kilometers a week. Is there any other way?

I would suspect a battery drain from another accessory hooked up to a location that has power prior to turning the key on. You have a battery drain causing the problem when parked & turned off. Hook a voltmeter in the Amp (DCA or MA) position in series between the battery & battery cable(either post but I prefer positive (+)) & let us know the reading.
Darrell

 

[mcalva]

I read your answers carefully but I have not had time to test.


I have definitely ruled out the possibility of a solar charger while the motorcycle is running. In any case I would use it only outdoors and with the bike stopped but it does not make much sense because if it is on the street it is because it has been in motion and the battery should be able to start.
Another thing that could be is that my battery charger does not reach the 2 Amp required for the initial charge and that really as Easy Rider said has not come to be fully charged.
But at the moment I have not done any tests. Let's see if this next weekend ...


Thank you.

 

[Little Blue]

Battery

All good suggestions on what to look for and check. The question I have is temperature and humidity a problem in your area. In Indiana USA this is a real problem and a battery Killer. Just something to put into the equation. Please keep everyone posted on your findings. Little Blue

 

[Easy Rider]

Another thing that could be is that my battery charger does not reach the 2 Amp required for the initial charge

There is no "requirement" for a 2 amp current flow to fully charge the battery.
A charger rated at 2 amps almost never will actually put out that much, at least not for very long.
A lesser charge rate just needs to be left connected longer.

A couple of people have mentioned added accessories.......like alarms, extra lights, etc.
Do you have any of that ??

 

[mcalva]

I'm sorry by the delay but I needed some time to verify my experiencies.

So after some months I can say my problem, was that I was traveling too short and was losing more battery than it could charge. In this case it worked: "ride more time" :thumbup: Thanks.

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: A nice 200 mile ride each day... :cheers: :2thumbs: