Doing Oil change - why ride for 10 mins first?

[Habib]

Want to change the oil. What is the purpose of riding around for 10 miles prior th draining the oil? Is it just to get it warm or what? Will letting it idle for awhile warm it enough, or is there another reason? It's raining and cold today but dry in the garage.

 

[SPYD3R]

TEMPERATURE

Roger;
JUST LET IT RUN UNTIL IT GET'S UP TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE...
no need to run 10 miles....
pull BOTH OIL PLUGS... and let it drain completely... pull the oil fliter, this can be messy, so have some rags handy... when installing the new oil filter, wet your finger with oil and coat the 'O' ring (seal) prior to installation... re-install BOTH drain plugs, pour in the new oil sans a half quart, start engine and let it run for a minute while watching the dash cluster to make sure your OIL LIGHT does not come on... check oil level and increase as needed....
this would be a good time to install GOLD PLUGS... the OEM plugs are junk... you'll soon find out...
Dan P
SPYD3R

 

[JayBros]

... pull the oil fliter, this can be messy, so have some rags handy...start engine and let it run for a minute while watching the dash cluster to make sure your OIL LIGHT does not come on...

I have found that while the oil is draining is a good time to crack the cap on the oil filter cannister to release any vacuum holding oil in the cannister. That way there is little oil left in it when you remove the filter. Do have the rags at the ready though.

From the 2014 RT operator's manual: "Ensure oil pressure warning lamp goes out within 5 seconds from engine start. If oil pressure warning lamp stays ON for more than 5 seconds, STOP ENGINE and recheck oil level."

 

[Bob Denman]

Why not just wait, and change the oil after your next ride? :dontknow:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT

Why not just wait, and change the oil after your next ride? :dontknow:

:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree: ............ saves TIME - MONEY - and it's guaranteed to be the correct Temp..... Unless you only drive it to your mailbox :lecturef_smilie: .................Mike :bbq:

 

[Chupaca]

Agree...

:agree: but if you wish to do it while you have the time and the weather is not cooperating....Just warm her up to operating temp's and proceed with the change . Thats the way i do it. Hard to go for a 10 mile ryde cause there are just too many side roads and by the time I get back I am not ready to do an oil change...:thumbup:

 

[Habib]

Thanks for the informative answers. To answer some of your question....if I get enough good weather I'll ride a hell of a lot farther than 10 miles. When I do get back supper will be ready. And when the weather here gets good enough to ride, I want to ride note change oil or do other maintenance. I'm glad some of my questions help with post counts.:roflblack:

 

[cptjam]

Drain

Let it idle and get up to temp. Open filter housing (36mm wrench), and remove both drain plugs. Put a piece of tape from one grip to the other, and put"NO OIL" on apiece of paper, stick to the tape. Go have supper. Relax. In the morning, all drained, all cool, all done dripping! New crush washers and "O" rings and filter. Back together, plugs and filter in, add oil. Owners manual tells how much. Run bike 2 minutes. Check oil, make sure level is ok. Remove safety sign and tape! All done!

 

[BajaRon]

Roger;
JUST LET IT RUN UNTIL IT GET'S UP TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE...
no need to run 10 miles....

SPYD3R

The problem with this approach is that, while you may have the coolant to operating temperature, it is likely that the oil is not. The temperature gauge reads coolant temperature, not oil temperature. These temperatures will be roughly the same while riding. But typically much different when warming a cold engine at idle. Not to mention that it is not good to let a cold engine sit at idle for extended periods for a number of reasons.

You want the oil hot so that it drains quickly. Getting the oil to operating temperature helps suspend contaminants that may have settled out while sitting. Riding your Spyder the 10 miles or so also spins the transmission which helps to agitate the oil. This agitation helps stir up and suspend contaminants in the oil. The idea is to get as much oil and contaminants out as possible. This is also the reason you should change your filter(s) with every oil change. While the filter may not necessarily need changing due to being full of bad stuff. Getting the bad stuff the filter has captured out of the system is a good idea.

You can do an oil change as you prescribe. It just isn't the best way to go.

 

[Purple Guy]

The problem with this approach is that, while you may have the coolant to operating temperature, it is likely that the oil is not. The temperature gauge reads coolant temperature, not oil temperature. These temperatures will be roughly the same while riding. But typically much different when warming a cold engine at idle. Not to mention that it is not good to let a cold engine sit at idle for extended periods for a number of reasons.

You want the oil hot so that it drains quickly. Getting the oil to operating temperature helps suspend contaminants that may have settled out while sitting. Riding your Spyder the 10 miles or so also spins the transmission which helps to agitate the oil. This agitation helps stir up and suspend contaminants in the oil. The idea is to get as much oil and contaminants out as possible. This is also the reason you should change your filter(s) with every oil change. While the filter may not necessarily need changing due to being full of bad stuff. Getting the bad stuff the filter has captured out of the system is a good idea.

You can do an oil change as you prescribe. It just isn't the best way to go.

Never quite thought of that.
My normal procedure (1330) has been to let idle until the fans come on for the second time.
Never considered getting the transmission moving nor agitating the oil.
Thanks for the tip Ron!!! :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

Never quite thought of that.
My normal procedure (1330) has been to let idle until the fans come on for the second time.
Never considered getting the transmission moving nor agitating the oil.
Thanks for the tip Ron!!! :thumbup:

I know that oil and oil change methods can be touchy subjects. I don't mean to offend anyone or pretend that I know it all. Just throwing out information that I have gained from those wiser than I over the years.

 

[Bob Denman]

... And your information is spot-on! :clap: :2thumbs:
Thanks!

 

[Steveoo]

Help with oil change

. New to group have a 2016 RT 1330, coming up on 3000 mile oil change. Read the threads, purchased the kit. When it says drop both plugs, is this the trans fluid also?

Thanks...steveoo

 

[C3517C]

. New to group have a 2016 RT 1330, coming up on 3000 mile oil change. Read the threads, purchased the kit. When it says drop both plugs, is this the trans fluid also?

Thanks...steveoo

Yes. The engine oil is the trans fluid. They are one in the same.