• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Do you think this will work?

On my old GS I noticed much of the foam with foil on it had come off or was melted. I replaced much of it with DEI heat shield. Great product and reflects the heat far better than the cheesy foam BRP used. For heat getting out of the Tupperware, I'd try DEI before wrapping the pipes.
 
Before my retirement, I was a designer of high pressure, high temperature piping systems. Even steam at 350-500 deg.F, steel piping requires a minimum of 2" of calcium silicate insulation and even that has to be jacketed so the surface temperature is tolerable. Exhaust systems are at higher temperatures so you can appreciate the amount of insulation required to attain the same comfort conditions...my engineering specs call for a min. of 4" at 600 deg.F..

To this 'hay seed'.......that's why air flow - into, through, and out of the engine compartment is so important. It's free and easier(once engineered)than just about anything that has been tried to date. jmho
 
It's settled then. I motion to have BRP remove the air box and replace with kewlmetal or equivalent. Those in favor????


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Mister Chairman!
The Gentleman from New York proposes and addendum to your motion:
That the catalytic converter also be removed...
 
NOT fiberglass

My wrap is NOT fiberglass it is ceramic, I got it at the SEMA show from the
racing department area of the show if you look close at the pictures you can see
it is not fiberglass and you can read the mfg. name and information to contact them
Dave




By all means try it for yourself if you wish. Just don't try to touch the pipes after they've been wrapped and the engine has been running for a bit. My infrared thermometer tops out at 850 degrees F and only reads "Hi" (overload) when I try to read the wrapped pipe temperature.

I saw no improvement whatsoever in the heat reaching my legs.

If anyone thinks an 1/8" to even 1/4" of fiberglass can be an effective insulation for anything (much less for exhaust pipes) then try insulating the walls in your house with the stuff and see if it makes a hill of beans difference or wear it as a coat on a frigid day. And yes, it's the same thing whether you're trying to keep heat in or cold out. Just trying to make a point. If it wasn't for all the hype would you believe it using common sense?
 
My wrap is NOT fiberglass it is ceramic, I got it at the SEMA show from the
racing department area of the show if you look close at the pictures you can see
it is not fiberglass and you can read the mfg. name and information to contact them
Dave

I didn't wrap with fiberglass either. Couldn't imagine playing with that stuff in tight corners...I'd still be itching.:banghead: Not sure how the different materials work by comparison. I just went for he one with the most flexibility for ease of application and of course the highest rating, cuz we all know those are accurate. :roflblack::roflblack:

I think the point of your thread was will this completed wrapping work?(as in how does it look?). It obviously took a big turn. So, now that you have it wrapped, what do you think? Do you feel anything different?:popcorn:

And one more thing, if you haven't completed the project....don't believe the "it will smoke lightly for 15 minutes" part. Mine did that, but after I took it for a spin, it started bellowing smoke for another half hour. My Spyder was looking like it was going to go up in flames any second. All I could think of is the video about the demo ride gone bad, posted earlier that day. I was wondering if I was going to end up on YouTube as another case!!!:yikes::yikes:nojoke
 
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I just had a stray set of electrons fire in this pea-brain of mine... :shocked:
Is it possible to run the RTs with that lower black body panel removed? If the "oil filter" update was done; it's now a relatively simple task to pull that baby...
But since I'm NOT that smart; would that "upset the applecart", and cause a loss of the other panels? :yikes:
(Just a thought for testing out more airflow to the underguts of the bike... :dontknow:)
 
My wrap is NOT fiberglass it is ceramic, I got it at the SEMA show from the
racing department area of the show if you look close at the pictures you can see
it is not fiberglass and you can read the mfg. name and information to contact them
Dave
Yes, although the majority of wraps are made from fiberglass, there are a few newer basalt fiber wraps available. I myself used DEI's "titanium" basalt fiber wrap. To call it "ceramic" though is very misleading, it is more of a stone or mineral wool like asbestos. The primary advantage of basalt over fiberglass is easier installation with less itching and no need to water the wrap down. You should still wear breathing protection though. Its insulative properties are about the same as fiberglass which is why I didn't feel I needed to make any specific distinction in my previous discussion.
 
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do you think.........

When I put a block off plate on the right side (hot foot) I replaced the splash guard on the bottom with expanded metal to give more room for air to flow. coming back from 3k trip air temp on interstate was 103 I also was pulling a trailer no hot foot an spyder temp never got above normal.:thumbup: Just my experience :spyder2: Pete
 
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