Do I really need to replace front & rear Brake pads together? Is BUDS necessary?

[Kingz]

We’re on our fourth Spyder now and just had the rear tire replaced on our 2020 RTL at 16,000 miles. The tech said we’re about ready for brakes and he said you have to replace all three wheels when it’s done and that it has to be connected to CanAm software when it’s done. I’m wondering if this sounds right?

 

[Woodaddict]

It needs to be connected to BUDS only for the brake fluid flush when flushing the main unit VCM (if I called it correct name?) You can replace both sets of front pads or the rear pads when due, at different times if needed. Sometimes even a rookie tech will get it wrong.

 

[BajaRon]

Most replace their brake pads too soon. Some wait too long. The service limit is 1mm. About the width of a credit card. I don't necessarily recommend going to the 1mm limit unless you can see pads on both sides of the rotor. It is not uncommon for pads to wear a bit unevenly. If they wear a good deal on one side compared to the other, this needs to be addressed.

16k is a bit early for most riders. However, certainly not unheard of. Especially if you don't use engine compression, ride in hilly country, or are an aggressive rider. It is also likely that you do not need to have all 3 pad sets replaced. Like Reagan said, "Trust but Verify".

(Added 04/11)
I see I failed to answer the BUDS question. Partially because Woodaddict already gave the correct answer. But I'll thrown in with him here to say that you don't need BUDS to do a simple brake pad change. Nor do you need BUDS to bleed the brakes in most cases. There is a very small amount of brake fluid in the VSS module and the fluid circulates through it. If you change your brake fluid before it gets terribly contaminated there is really no pressing need to flush the VSS module. In most cases, just replacing the fluid in the rest of the system is more than adequate.

If you've gotten air into your VSS module or decide you want to flush it, then you need BUDS. I suspect (because I have a sceptical mind) that most dealers don't go to the trouble to use BUDS or flush the VSS module for the reasons listed above. Whether or not they charge you for it is another matter. I apologize for being negative about this. There are good, honest dealers out there. I've just seen too much in the shenanigans category over the years.

 

[davev1pa]

RON - would wear more on one side of the rotor than the other indicate the caliper glide pin needs to be lubed? It seems my rear pads always wear more on one side than the other.

 

[BajaRon]

RON - would wear more on one side of the rotor than the other indicate the caliper glide pin needs to be lubed? It seems my rear pads always wear more on one side than the other.

Yes, that is probably the major contributor. You want to clean and apply a very thin coat of anti-seize lubricant on any sliding contact point. We prefer this product. But any decent anti-seize will do.



PS. It's usually the rear brake that has an uneven wear issue, though it can happen at any wheel. The rear lives in a much dirtier environment and also has the added duty of the parking brake. It is not uncommon for some to cut corners and not bother to clean or properly lubricate the moving parts. On the other hand, you don't want to slather anti-seize all over the caliper parts. Nor will getting anti-seize on the pad surface will not go well.

It's actually easy to do the job correctly. Just takes more time. And time is what most shops don't want to spend.

 

[Kingz]

He did say that it was just the one side that is worn but the other side is fine. I was wondering why that would be.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

He did say that it was just the one side that is worn but the other side is fine. I was wondering why that would be.

Read post #5 ....Mike

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Most replace their brake pads too soon. Some wait too long. The service limit is 1mm. About the width of a credit card. I don't necessarily recommend going to the 1mm limit unless you can see pads on both sides of the rotor. It is not uncommon for pads to wear a bit unevenly. If they wear a good deal on one side compared to the other, this needs to be addressed.

16k is a bit early for most riders. However, certainly not unheard of. Especially if you don't use engine compression, ride in hilly country, or are an aggressive rider. It is also likely that you do not need to have all 3 pad sets replaced. Like Reagan said, "Trust but Verify".

:agree: .... I've gotten way more miles from my pads, than most folks here ( except Ron :roflblack: ) because I know my Spyder/s ... The Tech is taking a guess about this and making money for the dealership .... It's not to difficult to check the wear on the pads, if you can't do that you are at the mercy of the dealership .... good luck ...Mike :thumbup:

 

[Jetfixer]

To answer the original question, no, you do not need to replace pads at all 3 wheels at the same time. I would recommend replacing both of the front wheels' pads together, though. Keeping the rear wheels' pads separate from the fronts. And, no, you do not need BUDS/BUDS2 to replace the brake pads. If you "were" in need of either the front and/or rear pads, and wanted to upgrade your Spyders' braking abilities, I would recommend replacing all pads at all wheels with fully sintered EBC pads. Talk to Baja Ron about this...