Do I need a new battery?????

[Spyderpilot]

Ok, 2021 S2S, new to me. It has a pig tail for a battery tender. I plugged it in and the tender just flashed with the red “charging” light. This went on for most of the day yesterday. I have another bike that was plugged in (different but same model tender). The other bike had a steady green light after a short period of charging. Thinking it may have been the charger, I switched them and same results. Even after overnight charging, the flashing red to indicate charging for the Spyder was still flashing.

So, my question is, Should I drill down and inspect the hookup for the pigtail, or do you think it is a battery requiring replacement?

Also, the bike starts fine. I just have it plugged in because it is going to be idle for a couple of weeks.

If anyone has had a similar experience, please enlighten me.

Thanks,
SP

 

[K80Shooter]

It's really easy to get to the battery to see if the wires are indeed hooked up.
While youre there make sure the connections are tight also.

"IF" everything is hooked up correctly (verify polarity) it should turn to green after a while. Remember that these chargers charge very slow as not to harm the battery.

Every battery is different, I did have to replace mine in my 2020 earlier this year. Any parts store should be able to check the battery for you if you want to go that route also.

 

[IGETAROUND]

Ok, 2021 S2S, new to me. It has a pig tail for a battery tender. I plugged it in and the tender just flashed with the red “charging” light. This went on for most of the day yesterday. I have another bike that was plugged in (different but same model tender). The other bike had a steady green light after a short period of charging. Thinking it may have been the charger, I switched them and same results. Even after overnight charging, the flashing red to indicate charging for the Spyder was still flashing.

So, my question is, Should I drill down and inspect the hookup for the pigtail, or do you think it is a battery requiring replacement?

Also, the bike starts fine. I just have it plugged in because it is going to be idle for a couple of weeks.

If anyone has had a similar experience, please enlighten me.

Thanks,
SP

The first thing you might consider doing is checking the battery terminal connections for cleanliness and tightness. Next thing would be to load test battery. replace if indicated by testing. If it starts fine, not likely to be a bad battery. Might want to just leave it on the maintainer for whatever time it takes to arrive @ a green light. These machines are sensitive to starting voltage, when they drop below ~12.5 volts while cranking all sorts of gremlins start appearing. My two cents FWIW

Al in Kazoo

 

[BajaRon]

Most tenders are not designed to charge a battery. They are designed to keep it charged. If your battery is down, you need to use a standard charger to get it up to full saturation, then use the tender to keep it there.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Back when I bought my 14 RT ( new ) .... I soon discovered that the OEM battery had NOT been fully or properly charged at ther dealer .... proibably not un-common .....do as prescribed above .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Most tenders are not designed to charge a battery. They are designed to keep it charged. If your battery is down, you need to use a standard charger to get it up to full saturation, then use the tender to keep it there.

:agree: .... however MOST but not all of them ... I have an OPTIMATE battery maintainer, and it has a DE-SULFATE setting and I have brought back batteries that were absolutely dead ( however not shorted - that can't be re-paired ) .... It will take extra time to accomplish this ....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Bfromla]

Also was the ignition completely off? Can give false readings otherwise. Checking connection & load test battery good annual maintenance at any rate. & if don’t have them, add star washers to terminals

 

[Spyderpilot]

Back when I bought my 14 RT ( new ) .... I soon discovered that the OEM battery had NOT been fully or properly charged at ther dealer .... proibably not un-common .....do as prescribed above .... Mike :thumbup:

Exactly…….Just because it is a “New” battery, doesn’t mean it was “seasoned” and brought up to full capacity before installation. That is my concern about getting a new one. I will have to be very cautious about the initial charge, or LACK of it.

SP

 

[Spyderpilot]

Also was the ignition completely off? Can give false readings otherwise. Checking connection & load test battery good annual maintenance at any rate. & if don’t have them, add star washers to terminals

Star washers……Had not thought of that. If they are not present, I will pick some up for this project. Thanks for the suggestion!!

SP

 

[Spyderpilot]

Most tenders are not designed to charge a battery. They are designed to keep it charged. If your battery is down, you need to use a standard charger to get it up to full saturation, then use the tender to keep it there.

Thanks Ron, that is just what I am attempting to do. Just keep the battery at the “full” level while it is resting in the garage.

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks Ron, that is just what I am attempting to do. Just keep the battery at the “full” level while it is resting in the garage.

Are you sure the battery is fully charged? I always try to get a (BS) battery. That's the only kind we sell at the shop. BS is tacked onto the end of the model number series and stands for 'Bottle Supplied'. In other words, the battery ships dry from the factory with the acid packaged separately in a bottle. That way your battery is 100% brand new, no matter how long it has been stored. A battery begins to deteriorate only after you add the acid. If a battery is stored for a year in the charged state, its life is shortened by at least a year when you buy it 'New'. And that's if they kept it charged. If not, it might have a number of years taken off its life span.

With the BS version, you add the acid yourself, let it set for the prescribed amount of time, then charge it. A little more hassle, to be sure. But you know what you have and you're getting your full money's worth. It's the best way to buy a new battery.

 

[Isopedella]

+ 1 on the BS batteries which are shipped dry.
Its a simple process to add the acid and then condition it.

 

[Bensonoid]

Battery load testers are not that expensive, and because the spYders are so sensitive to low voltage it's worth it to have one to check the battery 2 or 3 times a year. I have this one that seems to work quite well. Also I had to use my battery jump pack twice this year to get people back on the road and it is so hard to get to the terminals I came up with this setup to replace the battery bolts. Now it's a piece of cake hooking up to the battery. I carry a set with me so if I have to give a boost on the road again I will replace the battery bolts first.

 

[Isopedella]

You don't need a stand-alone battery load tester.
You can use one of these to do that job, and also its good for checking other things as well, like have I got power here? And how much? And stuff.



Waterproof Volt Meter.

If you wish you could fit a meter like this and keep an eye on your voltage just by glancing at it. Gives you a heads up when... say, your battery's getting old and requiring additional charging.



Cheap as chips on the AliExpress or E bay.

 

[Spyderpilot]

Are you sure the battery is fully charged? I always try to get a (BS) battery. That's the only kind we sell at the shop. BS is tacked onto the end of the model number series and stands for 'Bottle Supplied'. In other words, the battery ships dry from the factory with the acid packaged separately in a bottle. That way your battery is 100% brand new, no matter how long it has been stored. A battery begins to deteriorate only after you add the acid. If a battery is stored for a year in the charged state, its life is shortened by a year when you buy it 'New'.

With the BS version, you add the acid yourself, let it set for the prescribed amount of time, then charge it. A little more hassle, to be sure. But you know what you have and you're getting your full money's worth. It's the best way to buy a new battery.

Ron, That is the answer for sure for a NEW battery. I didn’t know what it was labeled, (BS), but am familiar with the concept. Now, the problem I have is the Initial charge after filling the acid. I don’t have a battery charger. Guess it wouldn’t hurt to get one. I really don’t trust the “stealer” to do that process correctly. Not at all.

Thanks for the intel..!!
SP

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

You don't need a stand-alone volt tester.
You can use one of these to do that job, and also its good for checking other things as well, like have I got power here? and how much? and stuff.

View attachment 205933

Waterproof Volt Meter.

If you wish you could fit a meter like this and keep an eye on your voltage just by glancing at it. Gives you a heads up when... say, your battery's getting old and requiring additional charging.

View attachment 205934

Cheap as chips on the AliExpress or E bay.

View attachment 205935

These kind of voltmeters can serve as a load test indicator, if they respond fairly quickly to voltage changes. Just turn the throttle to full open non-start position and hit the starter. Watch the voltmeter. If it drops quickly your battery is getting weak. Do the test when you put in a new fully charged battery and make note of how fast it drops. This will give you a reference for future checks.

 

[BajaRon]

Ron, That is the answer for sure for a NEW battery. I didn’t know what it was labeled, (BS), but am familiar with the concept. Now, the problem I have is the Initial charge after filling the acid. I don’t have a battery charger. Guess it wouldn’t hurt to get one. I really don’t trust the “stealer” to do that process correctly. Not at all.

Thanks for the intel..!!
SP

Getting a decent battery charger can have a good many benefits beyond just your Spyder. I highly recommend it. I also recommend getting a charger that will treat the sulfur buildup issue. Personally, I like this charger. I've actually restored some 'Dead' batteries with these chargers. Batteries that did not recover with a standard charger. I figured just once paid for the charger.

The Spyder likes voltage. You can get away with low octane fuel. But you're not going to get away with a low octane battery.

There are many good chargers out there. I certainly haven't tried them all. But I've had several. I have found that you do tend to get what you pay for.

These are a bit spendy. But I've found them very reliable and they do it all. Including a connection for your pigtail, if you use that. You don't need a tender if you have one of these. They give you good information and will desulfinate as well.

The 1st one will do all you need for lead acid batteries. If you want to through lithium batteries into the mix, then the 2nd one will do that as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005...&pd_rd_r=b6b706d0-ca5f-44c6-b18c-d6b4b839e7a9

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D...&pd_rd_r=85fcf440-aaf9-448c-bef8-56fb8213cbb2

 

[K80Shooter]

I have this one on mine and with the black friday discount it is a really good deal.

It will charge and maintain plus works with regular, agm and lithium batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W6B987F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Bensonoid]

You dont need a stand alone volt tester.
You can use one of these to do that job, and also its good for checking other things as well, like have I got power here? and how much? and stuff.

View attachment 205933

Waterproof Volt Meter.

....

This isn't a stand alone volt tester if that's what you're referring to, it's a battery load tester.

 

[Isopedella]

You don't need a stand-alone volt tester.
You can use one of these to do that job, and also its good for checking other things as well, like have I got power here? and how much? and stuff.

View attachment 205933
....

This isn't a stand alone volt tester if that's what you're referring to, it's a battery load tester.

Up. Correct. Thankyou. I should have typed that.
I have gone back and amended my post to be correct in the naming of that device. THANKS.

Comments still stand.