-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Display
- Thread starter Desert Spyder
- Start date
:hun: Thought they did.
stevedfive
New member
Front?
Bob Denman
New member
:agree: Front?? :shocked:
The RTS and Limited models do have a warning light if something isn't solidly latched in the rear. If you have a base or A&C model; it's there for you to hook up.
RattiganRoger has all of the schematics on how to get it to work... :thumbup:
There's also at least a couple of threads here about it if you don't want to bother him personally about it...
The RTS and Limited models do have a warning light if something isn't solidly latched in the rear. If you have a base or A&C model; it's there for you to hook up.
RattiganRoger has all of the schematics on how to get it to work... :thumbup:
There's also at least a couple of threads here about it if you don't want to bother him personally about it...
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Thanks Bob--I did not know that about the A & C. I just assumed it was like my RTS. I have left a trunk ajar a couple times and the warning light came in handy on the RTS.
Desert Spyder
New member
Thanks guys. I have never had a message like that but my thermometer shows something crazy once in a while and I was told that was the display to look for. Never jumped on the jumpers. This should be something that every dealer should be checking for before releasing the bike. It's a safety issue if things start flying out of the side trunks.
Bob Denman
New member
I think that I found it!:thumbup:
There's a jumper mis-wired.
This misplaced jumper causes the "Rear Cargo Door Open" not to be displayed and the useless air shock graphic to be displayed on the multifunction display.
It drove me nuts until I tracked down the bad jumper.
Here's how to fix it:
The jumper is located under the switch blank in the row of switches controlling the Brake/Hood Release and Heated Grips.
The block is under the fourth cover over if you count the Brake/Hood Release as #1.
It's actually where the rocker switch for the power air shock thingee would be if we lived in the high rent RT-S district.
Use a small screwdriver as a pry bar, be careful not to scratch the plastic around it.
Pull the cover off with your fingers. It can be a bit tight if it's never been removed.
You'll see a switch block hanging there.
The jumper is a white plastic block that plugs into the connector block.
It should have the jumper across two terminal holes in the block.
The correct location of the jumper should be between #3 & #6
For some reason the numbers go
9 6 5 4 7
10 3 2 1 8
To help you in identification Pin 9 & 4 do not have terminals in them. They are blank.
My jumper was between 4 & 1.
When re-installing the switch blank make certain the switch block is locked into the blank before you push it all the way down.
There's a jumper mis-wired.
This misplaced jumper causes the "Rear Cargo Door Open" not to be displayed and the useless air shock graphic to be displayed on the multifunction display.
It drove me nuts until I tracked down the bad jumper.
Here's how to fix it:
The jumper is located under the switch blank in the row of switches controlling the Brake/Hood Release and Heated Grips.
The block is under the fourth cover over if you count the Brake/Hood Release as #1.
It's actually where the rocker switch for the power air shock thingee would be if we lived in the high rent RT-S district.
Use a small screwdriver as a pry bar, be careful not to scratch the plastic around it.
Pull the cover off with your fingers. It can be a bit tight if it's never been removed.
You'll see a switch block hanging there.
The jumper is a white plastic block that plugs into the connector block.
It should have the jumper across two terminal holes in the block.
The correct location of the jumper should be between #3 & #6
For some reason the numbers go
9 6 5 4 7
10 3 2 1 8
To help you in identification Pin 9 & 4 do not have terminals in them. They are blank.
My jumper was between 4 & 1.
When re-installing the switch blank make certain the switch block is locked into the blank before you push it all the way down.
Similar threads
