• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Disappointing maiden voyage on new to us Spyder

New to the Spyer, but been an electrician for 25+ years, so here’s my take...Sounds like a lot of corrosion in the wiring harness. The ends of the wires at the connectors are probably severely corroded. They are working OK for a while, then when it’s run for a while, connections heat up. Sometimes go “open” while others will create a resistance. Wires would need trimmed back until you have clean copper, solder splice replacement lengths, then reconnect to the fuse lock, or replace fuse holder. Soldering connections would be best. The original are crimped. Just my 2 pennies, hope this helps. Intermittent electrical gremlins suck:)!
 
New to the Spyer, but been an electrician for 25+ years, so here’s my take...Sounds like a lot of corrosion in the wiring harness. The ends of the wires at the connectors are probably severely corroded. They are working OK for a while, then when it’s run for a while, connections heat up. Sometimes go “open” while others will create a resistance. Wires would need trimmed back until you have clean copper, solder splice replacement lengths, then reconnect to the fuse lock, or replace fuse holder. Soldering connections would be best. The original are crimped. Just my 2 pennies, hope this helps. Intermittent electrical gremlins suck:)!

Thank you. After a lot of reading your opinion makes perfect sense.
Definately I want a new fuse holder and cover regardless of who pays for it.
The corroded wires definately need to be cut back until they find clean copper.
Thanks again for you input, it's appreciated.
 
Just got back from the dealer and the spyder mechanic agrees with you Ron. He said the box doesn't look too bad and suggested removing the bottom bank of 3-40 amp and 1-25 amp fuses, cleaning up the contacts and installing new fuses.
I took it for a long ride after talking with him because I had the fuse box opened up all night with a fan blowing on it. After 40 miles riding it did everything that it did yesterday so no more riding until I replace the fuses. Then I'll say a prayer and go riding.

Looks like you're making progress... Once there's water intrusion and any sign of corrosion in a fuse box the magic electrical pixies tend to get moody... If you caught it in time and there's sign of corrosion, replace the affected wires and terminals, get out a can of fluid film and PLASTER that fuse box from the front and back with it... I had a customer have this issue and I added drain ports in the factory fuse box and polluted that fuse box with fluid film and it's been three years now with no further malfunctions. Yes water still gets in there a bit but there's so much fluid film in there it just beads off and drains out. The fuse boxes are a part of a yearly inspection on Spyders and may I add, when I was at the Spyder dealer recently I checked the fuse box on a 2018 sitting on the lot after it had rained and been driven about 20km in the rain.... guess what? WATER INTRUSION!
 
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New to the Spyer, but been an electrician for 25+ years, so here’s my take...Sounds like a lot of corrosion in the wiring harness. The ends of the wires at the connectors are probably severely corroded. They are working OK for a while, then when it’s run for a while, connections heat up. Sometimes go “open” while others will create a resistance. Wires would need trimmed back until you have clean copper, solder splice replacement lengths, then reconnect to the fuse lock, or replace fuse holder. Soldering connections would be best. The original are crimped. Just my 2 pennies, hope this helps. Intermittent electrical gremlins suck:)!
Excellent advice... ever try muriatic acid on corroded wires? :ohyea: I use it all the time when working with corroded wires on some units especially boats. Dip the corroded wire in it and voila! Clean as a whistle... neutralize it then get to soldering. use this a lot on vessels I do electrical work on.
 
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BRP does not sell parts of the fuse box. You buy a new one complete with the harness section attached to it and replace the whole thing. No dealer is going to slice and dice, solder and patch and stand behind the work. Never ending returns.

Now, if you are an adept electronics repair person, then sure, perhaps you can spend the hours on end to do the patch clean and solder type repair on your own time (lots of it).

Wish you luck but the sooner you bite the bullet and get it repaired right, the sooner you will be able to enjoy the bike. And you really cannot sell it in its current condition.
 
Finally Fixed (I HOPE)

Got my Spyder back today around 2:30.
When I dropped it off on Saturday, it was down-shifting by itself all the way to first at 50 mph.
The mechanic found a code for the VCM (expensive) so when he went to check on Tuesday when they opened, he told me there's some kind of connector similar to the fuse box for the VCM connection. When he removed the cover, water poured out if it. Anyway, he cleaned up all the connections and tested everything and all was ok.
The dealer road tested it for 50 miles before giving it back to me.
Then I rode it another 140 miles and it performed flawlessly.
As luck would have it, 15 miles from home the skys opened up and it poured rain. Since the dealer is only 3 miles from home and they were open late today, I headed there in case water got into the fuse box again and the bike acted up.
The sun was out when I got to the dealer and the bike worked fine. The mechanic came out and checked both fuse boxes and they were both free of water. The outer covers that keep the frunk dry did have water in them as designed.
They've got a claim in with BRP to see if they cover the repair because the best warranty expired on April 30, 2018. BRP hasn't said no yet and they submitted the claim last Wednesday so here's hoping.
Anyway, I'll be nervous on every ride for a while and if caught in rain, fusebox inspections will become the norm.
Thanks to everyone here for all your suggestions, advice and support.
My wife wants to trade the Spyder for a 2008 Goldwing trike with a Lehman kit with solid rear axle. It would cost us about $7,000.00 difference (a lot of money). We've had Goldwings and their reputation for reliability is well deserved in our opinion.
I love the Spyder and want to give it a chance. I warned her that the solid axle wing would be a much rougher ride for her that the Spyder.
Anyway, hopefully the problem has been resolved. Even in BRP doesn't come through, I'm happy.
 
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Got my Spyder back today around 2:30.
When I dropped it off on Saturday, it was downshifing by itself all the way to first at 50 mph.
The mechanic found a code for the VCM (expensive) so when he went to check on Tuesday when they opened, he told me there's some kind of connector similar to the fuse box for the VCM connection. When he removed the cover, water poured out if it. Anyway, he cleaned up all the connections and tested everything and all was ok.
The dealer road tested it for 50 miles before giving it back to me.
Then I rode it another 140 miles and it performed flawlessly.
As luck would have it, 15 miles from home the skys opened up and it poured rain. Since the dealer is only 3 miles from home and they were open late today, I headed there in case water got into the fuse box again and the bike acted up.
The sun was out when I got to the dealer and the bike worked fine. The mechanic came out and checked both fuse boxes and they were both free of water. The outer covers that keep the frunk dry did have water in them as designed.
They've got a claim in with BRP to see if they cover the repair because the best warranty expired on April 30, 2018. BRP hasn't said no yet and they submitted the claim last Wednesday so here's hoping.
Anyway, I'll be nervous on every ride for a while and if caught in rain, fusebox inspections will become the norm.
Thanks to everyone here for all your suggestions, advice and support.
My wife wants to trade the Spyder for a 2008 Goldwing trike with a Lehman kit with solid rear axle. It would cost us about $7,000.00 difference (a lot of money). We've had Goldwings and their reputation for reliability is well deserved in our opinion.
I love the Spyder and want to give it a chance. I warned her that the solid axle wing would be a much rougher ride for her that the Spyder.
Anyway, hopefully the problem has been resolved. Even in BRP doesn't come through, I'm happy.
Could you please clarify what repair you're now anticipating? It seems from your explanation the fuse box issue is resolved now? Are you talking about the VCM? Thanks.
 
Could you please clarify what repair you're now anticipating? It seems from your explanation the fuse box issue is resolved now? Are you talking about the VCM? Thanks.

Yes, the fuse box issue seems to be resolved now.
The VCM was mentions because one of the fault codes led to mechanic to that. Apparently there is some kind of connector box for the VCM and when he undid the box to check things out, water poured out of the box but the VCM is functioning properly now (thank god).

We'll never know for sure but the guy that I bough the spyder from is a big ATV nut. The techs at the shop are guessing that when he was getting his toys ready to put away for the winter, he used a pressure washer on the underside of the vehicles which forced water into the left fuse box and the VCM box or connector or whatever (I haven't seen the VCM area personally).
The mechanic does not anticipate that any further repairs will be required for this issue. He cleaned up everything and tested everything and he doesn't think anything else is required.
 
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Yes, the fuse box issue seems to be resolved now.
The VCM was mentions because one of the fault codes led to mechanic to that. Apparently there is some kind of connector box for the VCM and when he undid the box to check things out, water poured out of the box but the VCM is functioning properly now (thank god).

We'll never know for sure but the guy that I bough the spyder from is a big ATV nut. The techs at the shop are guessing that when he was getting his toys ready to put away for the winter, he used a pressure washer on the underside of the vehicles which forced water into the left fuse box and the VCM box or connector or whatever (I haven't seen the VCM area personally).
The mechanic does not anticipate that any further repairs will be required for this issue. He cleaned up everything and tested everything and he doesn't think anything else is required.
What an ordeal. Sorry you had to experience that. Thanks for sharing it with us.
 
Looks like you're making progress... Once there's water intrusion and any sign of corrosion in a fuse box the magic electrical pixies tend to get moody... If you caught it in time and there's sign of corrosion, replace the affected wires and terminals, get out a can of fluid film and PLASTER that fuse box from the front and back with it... I had a customer have this issue and I added drain ports in the factory fuse box and polluted that fuse box with fluid film and it's been three years now with no further malfunctions. Yes water still gets in there a bit but there's so much fluid film in there it just beads off and drains out. The fuse boxes are a part of a yearly inspection on Spyders and may I add, when I was at the Spyder dealer recently I checked the fuse box on a 2018 sitting on the lot after it had rained and been driven about 20km in the rain.... guess what? WATER INTRUSION!

I just checked and canadian tire here carries the spray cans of fluid film. Do you actually spray it on the fuses or just on the outside of the fuse box??
How do you remove the fuse box cover after the fluid film is applied.
We're actually thinking of a trip to the east next week. I was born in Salisbury NB and my father is in a nursing home in Fredericton and I have a brother and other relatives in Moncton.
We may also do the Cabot trail. We've done it in a car but I think it would be awesome on the Spyder.
Looks like we'll be able to wave to you when we drive by Antigonish :)
 
I just checked and canadian tire here carries the spray cans of fluid film. Do you actually spray it on the fuses or just on the outside of the fuse box??
How do you remove the fuse box cover after the fluid film is applied.
We're actually thinking of a trip to the east next week. I was born in Salisbury NB and my father is in a nursing home in Fredericton and I have a brother and other relatives in Moncton.
We may also do the Cabot trail. We've done it in a car but I think it would be awesome on the Spyder.
Looks like we'll be able to wave to you when we drive by Antigonish :)

Spray the living beegeezus out of EVERYTHING... pull all the fuses out and spray it point blank into the terminals then reinstall the fuses and spray a good amount again to ensure the fuses and relays are now "sealed up" then on to the back of the fuse box... I took the whole front clip/frunk assembly off to do that. It just seemed easier to me.... and while you're at it, do the terminals on the battery..... If you come through, gimme a shout on here maybe stop for a quick beer or a Java! I have been known to get up at 3am and toddle off for breakfast at the Silver Fox in Salisbury. haha. ... the Cabot trail is awesome on bikes. Just bring everything from sunscreen to rain gear to snow shoes as just a bit over a week ago we were delayed a day on our annual bike rally due to about 4 inches of snow on the road on the Cabot LoL.... Oh one last thing... Fluid Film sets up after a small amount of time and sorta semi-gels up so it's not that messy to deal with after it's been let be for a bit...
 
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Taste!? Scary....

Thanks to everyone for your replies. First thing I did the second time I pulled over was to make sure the battery cables were tight. They were. Rear tire is not new and it's a kenda.
When it was in for the safety inspection they also did an oil change and replaced part #278003071 control gear motor and under the price it says warranty. Probable a TSB.

Anyway, I went out to check the fuses. When I opened the left side fuse box cover (the left side when you're sitting on the bike), there was a lot of liquid inside the cover. The colour was like a robins egg blue and had no taste of coolant or battery acid. All of the fuses were wet so at least the dealer will have a starting point.
Anybody have any idea what the liquid could be?

thanks
Greg
I would be careful tasting things you don't know what it is?
 
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