Disabling air compressor

[Freddy]

. Loose Nut Behind Handlebars :yikes: Thanks for that second clarification Rev

 

[MrBill5491]

I'm sorry MrBill, but if your compressor is cycling all the time, then it's almost certainly because you have a leak in the ACS system somewhere & disabling the compressor probably won't let you go manual anyway!! :gaah:

That leak or leaks may be in the 'non-return valve'; more likely be in the air bag itself; or most likely be in one or more of the 'push-fit' air line fittings.... You'll need to fix or bypass the leak/s before you can get any sort of working ACS again, even if you do want to go strictly manual! :lecturef_smilie:

Yup you can easily hear it hissing on and off, doesn't matter if you are on or off, moving or not. As long as the the engine is running you can hear it doing it's thing. Great just great, sounds like it's going to be a long ass afternoon tracking this down.

 

[MrBill5491]

I thought my compressor was cycling also. But it was the DPS that I was hearing at low speeds. Check yours before tackling the compressor. Try a mechanics stethoscope to listen if you can, or tape a recorder in the area.

Dang thing will cycle whether you are moving or not and if you are on or not. As long as the engine runs, you can hear it and hear it a good distance.

 

[Grandpot]

MrBill, you have one of two problems. 1. A leak in the bag or system. 2. The compressor has failed. There is a set screw on the crank shaft that backs off. The compressor motor runs but, the piston will not pump air. I have replaced 3 compressors with this problem. One on my bike and two for friends. I have a video on YouTube showing how to install an after market compressor. Go to YouTube and search for Can Am Spyder Compressor. It's about 45 minutes long.

 

[BlueRibbon]

I need a little help here for my 2014 RT-S. The air damper does not hold air when filled manually and I'm not sure if there is a compressor or if it is running if present.
I'm going to be replacing the rear shock with an Elka from Lamonster..Do I still need to have the damper operational with the new shock? I saw a review on Lamonster by a guy that just left his air damper disabled after installing the new shock. I don't mind saving $200 -$300 to leave it as is, but don't want to be open to doing damage to that $600 + new shock.

Anyone out there have any experience with this?

 

[rtlister]

Need air compressor for 2014 RTL SE6 1330

I'm 99% sure my compressor in my 2014 RTL (1330) needs to be replaced so I'm looking for where is the best place to order one (price)? Any suggestions. Dealership sales it for $370.

 

[Ron2349]

I believe this is a common replacement that is better than the oem compressor.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00290Y2E...colid=KIGMMXAI3JLN&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Ron

 

[Mikey]

I'm 99% sure my compressor in my 2014 RTL (1330) needs to be replaced so I'm looking for where is the best place to order one (price)? Any suggestions. Dealership sales it for $370.

Have you got down there with a bottle of soapy water and figured out where the leaks coming from first? That's what I would do, then you now what your fighting! One things for sure if you let the pump just run wild it will burn up. But you have to know where it's leaking first!! Good luck, it's in a sucky place to get to, it's to bad you didn't need a rear tire because that would give you a lot better access to some of the parts easyer! Good luck!!:2thumbs: