Difficulty with the reverse button

[dmiles]

So the guy made good on delivering my 2017 RTL all the way from West Texas. Believe it or not, it is better than described, and far better than expected. I can not find one thing I am disappointed with. I gave him an eBay feedback that reflected just how happy I am with the way this guy does business.

Having said that, I did have a small issue that I have seen posted in these very forums, the dreaded difficulty with going in to reverse. It happened to me at the worst possible time as I had most of the road in front of my house blocked, while in position to back in to my driveway. Of course, here comes a pickup truck, and I could not get it to go into reverse. Well I was finally able to, but it was a bit embarrassing for a couple of minutes.

I'm pleased to report that the issue is, at least for now, completely resolved. It was an easy fix, so I wanted to share it here, just in case it might help someone else.

My issues was not with the switch, but more with the plastic actuator. I didn't want to take that what looks like a hard to get and extremely expensive assembly apart unless I absolutely had to. It felt like it wasn't moving well, and the best way to describe it is it kind of mad a creaking noise, and just was not smooth at all. I'm talking about the round button on top you have to press to get it to go in to reverse.

Now this fix felt kind of jackleg, I normally don't like to do this type of thing. But I took a can of Dry Lube, and sprayed just an ever so small amount around the button while I held it down. I figured being dry lube, it would be less likely to draw and hold dirt and debris.

Well it worked way better than expected. I can now get reverse without having to use my right hand, just using my thumb and index finger on my left hand. The first time I tried it, it went in to reverse so easily, I had to check to make sure it actually worked. I think the West Texas sun had just dried out the plastic to the point where it was very hard to press. Not saying this will be a long term fix, but definitely worth a try if you are having this type of issue.

 

[Haze]

Thanks for the followup.

 

[Lew L]

So the guy made good on delivering my 2017 RTL all the way from West Texas. Believe it or not, it is better than described, and far better than expected. I can not find one thing I am disappointed with. I gave him an eBay feedback that reflected just how happy I am with the way this guy does business.

Having said that, I did have a small issue that I have seen posted in these very forums, the dreaded difficulty with going in to reverse. It happened to me at the worst possible time as I had most of the road in front of my house blocked, while in position to back in to my driveway. Of course, here comes a pickup truck, and I could not get it to go into reverse. Well I was finally able to, but it was a bit embarrassing for a couple of minutes.

I'm pleased to report that the issue is, at least for now, completely resolved. It was an easy fix, so I wanted to share it here, just in case it might help someone else.

My issues was not with the switch, but more with the plastic actuator. I didn't want to take that what looks like a hard to get and extremely expensive assembly apart unless I absolutely had to. It felt like it wasn't moving well, and the best way to describe it is it kind of mad a creaking noise, and just was not smooth at all. I'm talking about the round button on top you have to press to get it to go in to reverse.

Now this fix felt kind of jackleg, I normally don't like to do this type of thing. But I took a can of Dry Lube, and sprayed just an ever so small amount around the button while I held it down. I figured being dry lube, it would be less likely to draw and hold dirt and debris.

Well it worked way better than expected. I can now get reverse without having to use my right hand, just using my thumb and index finger on my left hand. The first time I tried it, it went in to reverse so easily, I had to check to make sure it actually worked. I think the West Texas sun had just dried out the plastic to the point where it was very hard to press. Not saying this will be a long term fix, but definitely worth a try if you are having this type of issue.

Ah --- something else to lube. I just finished lubing the saddle bag hinges and latches along with tightening the 16 hinge screws. Now to find the dry lube???

Lew L

 

[dmiles]

Ah --- something else to lube. I just finished lubing the saddle bag hinges and latches along with tightening the 16 hinge screws. Now to find the dry lube???

Lew L

Hey Lew, here is what I use, and this is probably where I bought it. This is what I used because I had it on hand, and like I said I was wanting to avoid anything that might gather dirt and debris, possibly making matters worse. There may be better solutions out there, maybe ask for advise at the local auto parts store for something that's good for plastics. I was just shocked and pleased that this worked so well, just had to share here. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-Advanced-Dry-Lube-Spray-Lubricant-16-TDL/202532762

 

[jcthorne]

. I can now get reverse without having to use my right hand, just using my thumb and index finger on my left hand.

The position of the reverse push button was selected to try and force you to use your right hand for that button. Intentionally to keep your right hand OFF the throttle while shifting to reverse. The suggested sequence is

Foot on the brake and hold.
Right hand press and hold the R button.
Left hand down shift.

 

[Piratezz]

That works for me too, left hand on reverse button, paddle flip, and go, no issues whatsoever...

 

[Mikey]

I pull back on the flapper and jam the button with my thumb, in that sequence and it go's in every time!:dontknow: you have to be at a standing stop with foot on the brake!

 

[JayBros]

The interesting thing, at least for me, is jc's sequence first step since, at least on my '14 RT-S, there is no brake safety interlock when shifting into reverse as there is when shifting into 1st. One would think that shifting into reverse is where a brake safety interlock would almost be more important than one for shifting into 1st. I'm a cheater who uses left thumb on the R button but I almost always use the brake pedal for my own safety.

 

[Bangorbob]

I'm with JayBros about cheating with the left thumb and left pointer. With that being said, my reach between those two are about six inches. If the reach was shorter, I would have to use my right hand. I use an electronic spray cleaner, that doesn't effect plastic first, let it dry for a few minutes, then also use dry silicone spray.

 

[dmiles]

I don't disagree with anyone shifting in to reverse how ever they want. My point is that I wasn't able to even do it with one hand before I lubed the button. Now it just works the way it was intended.

 

[Tonylmiller]

I just use two hands. Takes much less contortions.

 

[Little Blue]

Two Hands

:chat:...The Two Hand method is the better way to go.
Safety First and foremost. Enjoy Your Ryde Time.....:thumbup:

 

[Lew L]

.

Left hand only seems to work just fine here...........

 

[bigbadbrucie]

For the lube spray, I’m of the opinion to use what you have on hand first, and I always have a can of “contact spray cleaner”! with that said, I would not use something like WD40, but that’s jmho.

 

[dmiles]

For the lube spray, I’m of the opinion to use what you have on hand first, and I always have a can of “contact spray cleaner”! with that said, I would not use something like WD40, but that’s jmho.

Agree on that one.

 

[Gekko]

For the lube spray, I’m of the opinion to use what you have on hand first, and I always have a can of “contact spray cleaner”! with that said, I would not use something like WD40, but that’s jmho.

I agree about not using the original WD-40; but the brand WD-40 now has different formulations under the same branding. I would use this though: https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-S...icant-with-Smart-Straw-Spray-300012/204500174

And, yes, I do have some on hand.

 

[spyderwing57]

Another paddle reverse problem

Well I just got back from Americade it was and maiden voyage after working on the trike making various improvements and maintenance. I was picking up supplies getting ready for a trip south when at my local store I couldn't get the trike into reverse. I was able to get it home.The first thing I did was come home and look at S.L. forum. I took the paddle apart found some dirt and grease cleaned up the contacts (little ball bearings) put it all back together and NOTHING. At $609.00 I am not looking forward to change the paddle shifter if it isn't bad. I don't have BUDS. I am going to take side panels off to see if I see any movement near the gear selector. It does still go into 1st gear. I am going to take it out for a ride and see if it goes through all the gears and downshifts ok. I 'll keep you all up to date as I progress or regress. :shocked:

So my question to all the gurus and people who have had this problem, will we have to make a class action suit against BRP or will they make good for all these paddle replacements. I say this because I just received my email about the replacement of the front sprocket.

2015 RT LTD SE6

 

[DuckDodgers]

I have had the same problems along with a few others here. I did the same as you, taking apart the housing and cleaned up what I found around those ball bearings. It did not work either. I used an awl to depress the ball bearings manually and could hear it make contact and the distinct click when it presses the switch and releases to shift. I thought maybe the little black tray that the ball bearings ride in was worn in one area or the next and the switch not getting good contact. To be sure I took the Spyder to my local dealer and had them check the shift function with BUDS. Every other switch on the left hand cluster registered in BUDS except the downshift function. If I had thought I would have asked them to manually depress the ball bearing and white switch underneath it to see if that then registered in BUDS, but I didn't.

I say all that to say I am still not entirely convinced if the cheap plastic around the ball bearings is worn or if the white pad switch underneath has failed internally. It doesn't help that my particular Spyder has times that the downshift works a few times and then not again for awhile. I scoured the country looking for a left hand multiswitch assembly and was lucky enough to find one recently. I am still working to get that now swapped out.

 

[ShockwaveSpyder]

I have had the same problems along with a few others here. I did the same as you, taking apart the housing and cleaned up what I found around those ball bearings. It did not work either. I used an awl to depress the ball bearings manually and could hear it make contact and the distinct click when it presses the switch and releases to shift. I thought maybe the little black tray that the ball bearings ride in was worn in one area or the next and the switch not getting good contact. To be sure I took the Spyder to my local dealer and had them check the shift function with BUDS. Every other switch on the left hand cluster registered in BUDS except the downshift function. If I had thought I would have asked them to manually depress the ball bearing and white switch underneath it to see if that then registered in BUDS, but I didn't.

I say all that to say I am still not entirely convinced if the cheap plastic around the ball bearings is worn or if the white pad switch underneath has failed internally. It doesn't help that my particular Spyder has times that the downshift works a few times and then not again for awhile. I scoured the country looking for a left hand multiswitch assembly and was lucky enough to find one recently. I am still working to get that now swapped out.

The thing with the manual downshifting happened to me too, at first more and more malfunctions, at the end no reverse possible. Called my dealer and at first he said that it was a problem with the 2018 models, not known on the 2020+. He called BRP and they said they'd change it to a completly new unit, but can't deliver until the 28th of June. But I want to rYde, so I had a closer look to the downshift-paddle and found the ball bearing. I loosened the small screw and gave the paddle more room/tolerance, put some lube on it, and it's worked well from 400Km/250Miles, hopefully until I get my new multiswitch.
Mine is a 2020 F3-S now with 11000Km/7000Miles.