• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Dave & Teds Most Excellent Adventures 2013

Check to make sure your coolant cap is turned to the second detent. If so, you need to start tracking down the leak. There are several possibilities.
 
I added alot more info to my previous post up above Scotty

Check to make sure your coolan cap is turned to the second detent. If so, you need to start tracking down the leak. There are several possibilities.
And yup, the cap was on correctly and tight, was actually a struggle to open up. Coolant level is down just below the middle line now.
 
And yup, the cap was on correctly and tight, was actually a struggle to open up. Coolant level is down just below the middle line now.
Start by looking a the lone worm-type hose clamp. Then inspect the coolant tank and thermostat housing for signs of leakage. If those are good, you are just going to have to clean, run, and search until you find it. With that amount of leakage, you should spot it quickly, but you usually have to clean things well first, since the fan blows things around.
 
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Being sent home early again today

Being sent home again at 9 this morning:(, so I'll post some pics of the aforementioned issues here shortly. If the rain lets up, I'll clean it off & take a short ryde & inspect for obvious leakage areas. When cleaning these areas, you can't really get a rag into all the crevices, so is it ok to use something like an engine degreaser or brake cleaner?:hun: I don't want to do more harm than good in my explorations, ya know:dontknow::lecturef_smilie:
 
I've found coolant leaks to be a bit easier to find than oil leaks because you don't need to drive
Just let it get up to temp in the driveway.

RE:Your TeddyCam wiring:I'm not sure how handy you are with a soldering iron, but I wouldn't mess with too many connectors between cables.
Just a thought.

Agree. The rule of thumb I use is if the wiring spans two parts that may need to be separated during servicing, I use a connector. Otherwise, connections are soldered, and wrapped with heat shrink.
 
Ref Cable connections

Would you consider trying Posi-Taps etc first

I did ask Posi-Products Taps the following question :-

Sir

Can Posi-Products be used for Vehicle Audio systems eg. the Speakers leads etc

I have used them to supply 12v Power both + AND - to accessories and they are excellent

Thanks

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK


Ans from Them

Of course.
Nissan specifies them for installation of mobile electronics in new cars.

Thank you,
Customer Service Dept.
Posi-Products
www.posi-products.com




 
coolant tank

Make sure you bring the coolant level up to above the seam between the top and bottom half of the coolant tank. I had this happen last year end of April no less). It was leaking at the seam.
 
Pics of coolant leak

After further investigation last night, the coolant appears to be leaking from the 2 worm clamp positions shown in these picsuploadfromtaptalk1359457047152.jpguploadfromtaptalk1359457084109.jpguploadfromtaptalk1359457106037.jpguploadfromtaptalk1359457124545.jpguploadfromtaptalk1359457154998.jpg
 
12Volt Frunk Install

Bought the OEM 12V accessory outlet from BRP to install in the Frunk & I found the connection for it no problem & yes,
I'm aware I have to install a fuse to power it, but my question is,
Did BRP NOT put a prefab cutout in the plastic of the Frunk for easy installation? I mean, its there own mod, you'd think since they made it Plug&Play they'd also have an easy access point for it. If they did, I can't see where on Teds Red Sled, can you?
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After further investigation last night, the coolant appears to be leaking from the 2 worm clamp positions shown in these pics
Those are not worm clamps (which tighten with a screwdriver), they are Oetiker clamps. They must be cut off to be replaced, and leaks there often indicate worn hoses. You could probably replace them with worm (screw) clamps without difficulty (except for cutting them off without damaging the hose). Be sure this is the location of the leak. Coolant collects at the hose fittings, and can appear to leak there when it is really from somewhere else.

This one has me a bit worried, as it appears oil is leaking from the left/front side of the front cylinder. The other side is clean & dry
Could be from a valve cover gasket, water pump (?), or something else. Worry about one thing at a time. Get the major coolant leak taken care of. The oil leak may have been there some time, and appears to be minor. You just discovered it in your careful inspection for the coolant leak.

unk & I found the connection for it no problem & yes,
I'm aware I have to install a fuse to power it, but my question is,
Did BRP NOT put a prefab cutout in the plastic of the Frunk for easy installation? I mean, its there own mod, you'd think since they made it Plug&Play they'd also have an easy access point for it. If they did, I can't see where on Teds Red Sled, can you?
aretyjav.jpg
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Good job finding the connection! I didn't find it, and figured it had been eliminated from the 2011 model. It is already powered, via the 10 amp circuit that feeds the rear outlet. The 12V accessory outlet is marketed for the RS (but will fit anything), so there is no mark or cutout in the RT trunk for it. You will have to find a place and cut your own hole.
 
Therapy Update

So yesterday, we got sent home early. I have therapy scheduled twice a week for right after I get off (normally) of work, and its close by work, but about 30 minutes from home. So I figured I'd go home & slueth around Teds Red Sled for the aforementioned coolant leaks, which I think we've found as those Otiker clamps or however you spell them are the most likely culprit. So I figured I'd take The Tedster with me to my Therapy appointment for the first time. All of the therapists that work there had seen his pics & heard of his tales, but had never had the chance to meet him til yesterday.

Surprise Surprise, Teddy was once again the center of attention
:yes:can you believe that:doorag::roflblack:He went straight to work schmooze'n with everyone in the waiting room, and taught a little boy about 4 or 5 how to High 5 & give him a treat (Teddy, not the kid) & then it was our turn to go back.

Just a quick update from my last post about all the insurance frustration I had to ho thru, come to find out, sent I was referred to Therapy by a hand surgery specialist, and this was basically their own Therapy department, its considered Occupational Therapy and NOT Physical Therapy, don't ask me, i don't know wjy. But my regular insurance does cover OT, but for PT, I'd have to go thru a seperate company and only go to their providers. So in the end, the 3 hours of frustration was nothing more than a miserable waste of time for me, but at least I got it figured out.

Now, as for my arm, my issues have transferred and are getting worse. I was told last week NOT to do the hand exercises with my arm stretched straight, only the ones with my arm bent at my side. Doing the out stretched exercises caused a nerve to get inflamed or something, cause now anytime I straighten my right (injured) arm, and try using my right hand to apply any pressure, even like using a screw driver to remove 4 bolts, my index finger gets about 10 degrees colder than the rest of my fingers on the same hand, then I get a bad achy, tingling feeling like pins & needles that usually lasts a good 30 minutes or so. Nothing dibilitating, just very frustrating and annoying more than anything. So now I'm told to try limiting my use with it even more, cause anything as simple as holding the steering wheel in the car, even lightly causes this reaction, as I said, just very very frustrating.

Anyways, my therapist loved Teddy and was happy that I brought him in with me as was the other patients, and of course, I dug out his treats and let them play & schmooze with him, and he posed for more than a few pics to say the least. Its been a bit since I've taken some pics of him myself, and I need to do that and post them for y'all. You may not recognize him, as its winter time, so I'm not shaving him down any more and he's really starting to get shaggy, kind of the inbetween stage from shaved to full coat. You'd think he's been chowing down like crazy & doubled his weight with how big he looks compared to be shaved
:shocked:

Getting sent home early again today, so I'll be checking the radar closely and if we get a break in the rain, Teddy & I will gear up and take his Red Sled for a ryde up to Middletown Cycle so they can do all the BUDS updates that are due, check the valve clearance & I'll also have the check about the oil and coolant leaks as well. Also need to get the redesigned side panel, can't forget that. Here's to hoping there's a break in the weather today
:pray:

 
Getting sent home early again today, so I'll be checking the radar closely and if we get a break in the rain, Teddy & I will gear up and take his Red Sled for a ryde up to Middletown Cycle so they can do all the BUDS updates that are due, check the valve clearance & I'll also have the check about the oil and coolant leaks as well. Also need to get the redesigned side panel, can't forget that. Here's to hoping there's a break in the weather today:pray:

Checking valve clearance is not a quick and dirty thing...it takes several hours. Did you arrange this with them beforehand?
 
Checking valve clearance is not a quick and dirty thing...it takes several hours. Did you arrange this with them beforehand?

Scotty
With the air box out it is now a quick and dirty thing. (80% of the valve job is removing and installing plastic). :clap::clap::clap: Techs love it.
 
I had a coolant leak and discovered it was my worm clamp. The clamp seemed that it would come loose real easy so I replaced the worm clamp. I went out for a 10 mile ride and so far the leak hasn't returned.

Good luck fixing your leak and with your therapy.
 
Yup, sure did

Checking valve clearance is not a quick and dirty thing...it takes several hours. Did you arrange this with them beforehand?
Yeah, when we went up last week, I asked the owner & the Service Manager about getting the valve check done & all the BUDS updates done & was told to bring it in whenever we could & they'd get us taken care of. I even asked if I had to redress the sled & showed him pics of how stripped I got it right now, but still able to ryde & they said to bring it in as it is, as long as I was ok with ryding it like that. Said it should save me a good chunk on labor costs, cause as doc & roger mentioned, with all the airbox & resonator removed, the engine is wide open, and I have all the side panels removed up front as well, so much less they have to worry about doing:2thumbs:
 
sadly, not today

I called just to confirm, and was told I'd have to wait til next week, as their only Spyder Tech. had already started on an major Spyder job & it more than likely will take all week to complete :banghead::mad:
 
I don't get this

Ok, this is starting to really frustrate me. With the helpful tips from y'all, I managed to disassemble even more of Teds Red Sled so that I could actually get in and be able to see where the coolant leak is. Thinking it's coming from the hose clamps, I removed all the plastic shroud around the fan and of course the plastic side support. I screwed the fan back in place, just without all the shroud & reconnected its wiring, so it runs like normal. I started the Spyder and let it run about 15 minutes & the temp. Gauge wad reading 5 bars and the fan kicked on as it should. Before all this, I made sure to top off the coolant, bringing it back up to the Full line on the tank.

I figured, as suggested, that once it got heated up, the coolant leak would be obvious and show itself. Try my best, I couldn't find any leaking and nothing on the floor. So I went and wire-tied a few dangly things securely to the frame and geared up Teddy & myself & figured we'd take a nice test ryde to really get things warmed up & that should do the trick.

Have to admit, this was by far the worst test ryde we've ever taken, & not because of the missing body panels, but because of the HORRIBLY SQUEEKING BRAKES!!!

Let me clarify here before anyone jumps all over me or gets the wrong idea. All 3 brakes are brand new Simi-Centred Pads that I purchased from BajaRon when I also ordered everything else for the maintenance. And yes, I have PM'd him directly about the issue & he immediately replied with a list of things I can try to correct the issues I'm having & also to reassure me this is an anomaly, and out of all of the numerous sets of pads that he has sold, I was the first to complain of an issue of brake squeal with them. So I'm pretty confident that its just some adjustment that I need to make to get them to quiet down, but with my right hand being so limited, its just not something I can easily tear into at the present time.

On our 60 mile test ryde a couple weeks back, I noticed them a little, but that test ryde, as evidenced by our video, was mostly open road with very little stop and go, so it didn't seem to be that big a deal, and I kind of wrote it off as they were brand new pads that were still getting broken in. But our ryde yesterday was just around town, all stop and go from block to block and squealing like a pig being chased for dinner at every stop. We even took it out on the highway to get up to speed and followed some of Rons suggestions for maybe correcting issues if our rotors were glazed, but that didn't help any at all. Not to mention, not saying it can't happen, but I seriously doubt that all 3 rotors would mysteriously glaze over at the same time just from sitting a few months, as we had no squeal to speak of from our previous brakes and the rotor on the rear is relatively new, with less than 8000 miles, and the fronts are still stock with a bit over 34,000.

Was just so embarrassing, as people from a block a way could here us sqealing, just made for a really frustrating ryde. I need to get my hand working right so I can investigate this further, cause its a ryde stopper for sure.

Anyways, so we rode for a little over 20 miles total, mostly city and I know the temp. was good and warm, as without that shroud & tupperware on, you really notice when that fan kicks on for sure. Back home to the garage, I grab the work light & I'm sure I would see evidence of the coolant leaks, again thinking its coming from the hose connections/clamps, but to my surprise, NOTHING! Not a drop of coolant to be seen, I don't get it.

Ok, so before leaving for work this morning, I went out to the garage expecting to once again see a puddle of green greeting me at the door, but nope, notta, bone dry every where I looked, connections, hoses, clamps and floor were all still nice clean and dry???

So what gives? Is my brain broken & I was just imagining this. If so, my imagination must be damn good, cause I even posted photos of what I thought was a coolant leak. Maybe its mass hullicinations, and the electronics are in on it too???
 
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