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Dang it! Electrical Gremlin, Bad Battery?

bertmc

New member
2012 RT Limited SE5, 13k

Had not been ridden for 3 weeks (out of town, bad weather, etc.)
Key on, everything lights up OK.
Push starter, one loud click, no start, & the display goes white with some vertical stripes that fade away, and it goes back to the CanAm logo, then back to the normal mode button message. No warning message or flashing lights.
Push mode button, push start, same thing.
No code comes up when I push the magic buttons.
Checked fuses
Put battery on Battery Tender for 24 hrs, still said charging, reads 11.2 volts on multimeter.


Keep charging?
Bad battery?
 
My gut says that the Battery's bad...
Give your dealer a call; it might be a warranty item perhaps? :dontknow:
Good Luck! :thumbup:
 
At 11.2 your battery is shot, But first are you sure the terminals ''At'' the battery are tight, Especially the negative one... If the terminal is even a little lose, When you first hit the start button it will short and will recycle back to safety warring ;[mode]....
 
The battery might be bad, but check the battery connections (inside the bodywork) first, for lack of corrosion and for tightness. Also check to see that the rear frame ground (negative jumper terminal under the seat) is tight. Loose or corroded connections won't let the battery charge properly or deliver full voltage to the system.
 
Bad battery..??

:agree: Check terminals, cable connections re-charge if it does not come up over 12 volts it is not holding the charge. Can also run it down to the auto store and load test it.. Good luck..!! :thumbup:
 
Positive starter relay

My first bug on my 2012 RT/LTD had this problem. The starter relay attached to the positive jumper was bad. After it was changed out, no more problems. It gave symptoms of a bad battery or loose connections. Have this checked out.
 
Going Down, I mean, Going Under

Thanks for the tips. You guys are always so helpful to us amateurs who get frustrated and want to give up because we can't get the cover off the fuse box. I always read old posts before I ask, but its always a relief to see that post from Scotty when I ask a question. I knew I had to check those battery terminals, but wanted to do everything I could before going under. First time I went under to change oil, I thought I had done everything to get ready (Lamonster drill procedure, how to remove mirror properly, T handle hex wrenches, pry bar, hacksaw, propane torch) but when I tried my Torx screwdriver on the panel I realized I had not seen any tips about the little thingy in that Torx bolt. Always something!

Thought I was OK yesterday evening when my Battery Tender flashed 80% charged and the reading was 11.6 volts. It started! But later when I was ready to go for a ride, it was back down to 11.2 and no start.

So today I'll go under for the battery and check it out.

Thanks again, Bert
 
Sounds like your battery won't take or hold a charge. Not taking a charge could be a bad connection, but not holding a charge means your battery is toast. A good battery should read at least 12.7 volts several hours after the charger is removed.
 
I had similar signs on he display. Couple times I jumped started. I even brought a booster battery with me to SPyderfest. Then I had a temperamental power steering coming to Missouri. Rickylen told me it was 100% loose or corroded cables. They tightened it but didn't test it. Wheeled it out to the parking lot. I tried starting it, and it did the same thing. Rickylen witnessed it. Battery bad but none in stock. Waited three days for the change ou. Now my power steering is perfect but I had check engine lite on the way back to the hotel in the rain. Screw it! A false warning because of the battery change out.
 
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