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Crank Case Breather Mod Question

xpeschon

MOgang Member
OK boys and girls.. MoLee and I installed the Crank Case Breather Mod about 7 weeks ago.. All has been running fine for me the past 6 1/2 weeks.. I went for a 400 mile run today and checked the Catch filler Window and this is what I saw.. First of all the Dealer changed the oil on Thursday and this is my first time taking in out on a ride.. After I got back from the 400 mile run I checked the oil first,, found out it was about 1/4 overfull, which we all know is not good but there is nothing I can do about it,, I then Suctioned the extra oil out of the resevior and got it to the full mark.. I then decided to check my Crank Cas Breather resevior... This is what I found.. See pics.. For sure this is some GAS mixed in with the oil, there is also some moisture.. It was pretty full after only 400 miles.. I once road 1000 miles in two days and yes I had some in there but no where near what I witness today, not to mention it was peer oil.... This time its mixed with GAS... We tied it into the air-clear box itself when we did the mod.. Any thoughts on this one??
Please advise..
Joe
 
When the dealer overfills the crankcase, you will get more in your catchcan. Avoid overfilling with vigor. According to the BRP service bulletin of July, 2008, the SM5 takes 4.1 quarts and the SE5 takes 4.2 quarts. I find that if I specify 4.0 quarts, no more, no less, I will be right at the full mark (2009 SM5). There seems to be some cling.

Be sure that you and the dealer personnel are using the proper procedure for checking the oil level. This is very important. It is easy to overfill the Spyder. You may have to be assertive to get the dealer to adhere to your instructions (for example, 4.0 quarts, no more, no less).

I cannot comment on the gasoline in the catchcan, because I do not have this. My catchcan is not vented into the airbox. You may want to try an alternative approach as a test.
 
mine does the same thing BUT only when its cold out. The can creates allot of condensation and turns the oil milky. When its hot out (or warm) its just oil.

both senarios, I can smell a little gasey smell

how cold was it when you started riding it this time?
 
brutus450: OK then that may be it.. I actually watched the temp today as I rode.. It started off at 40 degrees and the highest I say it today was 57.. Now having said that the first 200 miles where in prbably 40 to 47 degree weather and the final 200 miles from 47 to 57 degrees.. Yeh it was a yellowish color and very thin and smelled like GAS.. That don't make since to me but if we are all witness of the cold weather effecting this maybe I don't have a problem.. Here is my main concern:

The amount was much higher then normal:: I'm thinking the same thing that Spyder1026 mentioned, to much oil in the machine

Thin and smells like gas: Maybe its the weather heck I don't know all I do know it's yes the weather has changed to a more colder climate..

Color: My oil was just changed and it doesn't look like oil..

Weather,, Thats a good one,, any one else can help here??
Joe
 
What does the oil in the tank (on the dipstick) look like? If it is also very frothy and full of moisture after a long run at full operating temperature, you have a problem that needs to be looked into. Also I'd find out exactly what oil the dealer used.
 
The oil in the resevior (Dip Stick) look's like FRESH oil.. They use BRP-XPS-number 4 sythetic blend oil-- Its a black 1 quart bottle with a yellow/orange/black label.. The reason I know is I bought an extra one when I had the oil change at the 600 mile mark.. I have only had to add oil 1 time since then.. It sounds right to me,, there is not a weight on there like I am farmilure with like 10W40 it just has the number 4 on the bottle...

Thanks and what are you thinking now?? Again the oil in the resevior look fine, just like fresh oil..

Joe
 
45-47 degrees is definately cold enough to make the milky stuff in the can. my oil looks fine in the resevior also. I watch the oil can after every ride and have ridden it starting out in the 40's and in the 70's. When I start it in the 40's I definately get the milky stuff. In the 70's its just plain oil (still have a hint of gas smell either way). I always watch the oil in the resevior and its NEVER milky. Clean out the bowl and start it in the cold with the panel off and you can actually see the moisture collect right away. Then try starting it when its warm and it wont do it. Also, I think after the engine warms the condensation stops but keeps the oil in the can milky. You should however disconect the line going to the airbox and use the small filter. I wouldnt want the moisture going in the throttle bodies.
 
OIL

OK boys and girls.. MoLee and I installed the Crank Case Breather Mod about 7 weeks ago.. All has been running fine for me the past 6 1/2 weeks.. I went for a 400 mile run today and checked the Catch filler Window and this is what I saw.. First of all the Dealer changed the oil on Thursday and this is my first time taking in out on a ride.. After I got back from the 400 mile run I checked the oil first,, found out it was about 1/4 overfull, which we all know is not good but there is nothing I can do about it,, I then Suctioned the extra oil out of the resevior and got it to the full mark.. I then decided to check my Crank Cas Breather resevior... This is what I found.. See pics.. For sure this is some GAS mixed in with the oil, there is also some moisture.. It was pretty full after only 400 miles.. I once road 1000 miles in two days and yes I had some in there but no where near what I witness today, not to mention it was peer oil.... This time its mixed with GAS... We tied it into the air-clear box itself when we did the mod.. Any thoughts on this one??
Please advise..
Joe

Are you using BRP oil?------When I was using the BRP oil I noticed a lot of foaming. That is one reason I stopped using it.:dontknow:


Michael:doorag:
 
OK boys and girls.. MoLee and I installed the Crank Case Breather Mod about 7 weeks ago.. All has been running fine for me the past 6 1/2 weeks.. I went for a 400 mile run today and checked the Catch filler Window and this is what I saw.. First of all the Dealer changed the oil on Thursday and this is my first time taking in out on a ride.. After I got back from the 400 mile run I checked the oil first,, found out it was about 1/4 overfull, which we all know is not good but there is nothing I can do about it,, I then Suctioned the extra oil out of the resevior and got it to the full mark.. I then decided to check my Crank Cas Breather resevior... This is what I found.. See pics.. For sure this is some GAS mixed in with the oil, there is also some moisture.. It was pretty full after only 400 miles.. I once road 1000 miles in two days and yes I had some in there but no where near what I witness today, not to mention it was peer oil.... This time its mixed with GAS... We tied it into the air-clear box itself when we did the mod.. Any thoughts on this one??
Please advise..
Joe
Joe the residue I collect in mine looks the same, however as I've mentioned before I can no longer smell gas, you can smell mine to see if it is the same. The milky look comes from condensation which always occurs in a crankcase.It normally get sucked back thru the intake and burned by means of the crankcase ventilation system. By installation of the catch can we are simply intercepting this residue and seeing what we normally don't. I read somewhere that the BRP oil is 5w30 that is very thin but seems to be the norm for most modern engines. Running high RPM and running with too much oil will both cause more oil to be collected. It is kinda a trade off as to whether it should be connected back to the air cleaner or not. If you don't connect the catch can back to the air cleaner you may not be properly evacuating the fumes from the crankcase and could possibly be placing more pressure on the engine seals. However when you do run the catch can back to the air cleaner there is suction placed on the crankcase which naturally draws more oil and residue into the catch can, keep in mind if we were not catching this residue it would be collecting in the air box and being drawn thru the engine. There will be some gas fume get past the piston rings and into the crankcase as long as it isn't raw fuel which I don't see how it would be possible it is probably normal but we should compare with mine.
 
Raw fuel does not make the oil milky looking, moisture does. To be expected in the catch can.....particularly now that it's colder outside. And while it looks like a lot that's an oil and water emulsion that takes up a lot more space than just oil.

As long as there is no milky looking stuff in the resevoir or on the dip stick you're OK. Moisture in the oil resevoir means that youve blown a head gasket and there is water and antifreeze in the oil......death to an engine in short order.
 
Raw fuel does not make the oil milky looking, moisture does. To be expected in the catch can.....particularly now that it's colder outside. And while it looks like a lot that's an oil and water emulsion that takes up a lot more space than just oil.

As long as there is no milky looking stuff in the resevoir or on the dip stick you're OK. Moisture in the oil resevoir means that youve blown a head gasket and there is water and antifreeze in the oil......death to an engine in short order.
:agree:
 
I agree after looking at MO Lee catch can... His and mine looked the same, and he said he has no concern about what his looks like... We visited for a moment then I had to go but again Mo Lee is a WHOLE lot more mechanically inclined then I am so, if he say's he's not concerned nor am I.. Thanks MoLee I feel a whole lot better after seeing yours and talking with you.. I think I'm good to go.. Thanks to all..

Joe
 
When the dealer overfills the crankcase, you will get more in your catchcan. Avoid overfilling with vigor. According to the BRP service bulletin of July, 2008, the SM5 takes 4.1 quarts and the SE5 takes 4.2 quarts. I find that if I specify 4.0 quarts, no more, no less, I will be right at the full mark (2009 SM5). There seems to be some cling.

Be sure that you and the dealer personnel are using the proper procedure for checking the oil level. This is very important. It is easy to overfill the Spyder. You may have to be assertive to get the dealer to adhere to your instructions (for example, 4.0 quarts, no more, no less).

I cannot comment on the gasoline in the catchcan, because I do not have this. My catchcan is not vented into the airbox. You may want to try an alternative approach as a test.



What is the proper procedure for checking the oil? I was told by one person that you should have it paked on a level surface, let it warm up for a couple minutes, then shut off and wait 3 minutes before checking the dipsick. This allows the oil to return to the reservoir for an acurate measuement. Just curious if you feel that this is the currect procedure?
Please PM me when you have a minute.

Thank you!

Mike
 
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