• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Counter Shaft Pulley

Thanks for those pics. Still no joy on my Spyder. I am supposed to call them tomorrow to see if they have any word yet. He told me the bolt I need was ordered Monday and it usually takes 3 - 5 days for parts to arrive from BRP depending on where they ship from and if they are in stock. He said he checked and they showed close to 1,000 in stock. :dontknow:
 
counter shaft pulley

returning from a ride just 30 km from home, there was a lot of vibration from the back wheel. when i stopped it was like some one put a knife in the centre of the drive belt and cut the belt in halve.only one halve of the belt was left on the pulley and the remainder was on the teeth of the back pulley in big blobs of valcanised warm smelly rubber.after transporting the spyder home by truck i found that the bold had come out of the front pulley by half of a inch.i replaced the bolt some months ago with a non standard stronger bolt using LOCTITE 243.(the dealer did not have a brp bolt in stock nore dit brp austrlia, back order waiting time up to 6 weeks or more).there is a small groove in the engine just behind the line of the belt line near thefront pulley.it looks that the belt halve that is missing is the insite halve .when you did have problems with the shaft pulley did you have to replace the drive belt as well.the drive belt cost aus$ 600 from the dealer.iwill buy one from e,bay.

greetings henk
 
Front Sprocket torque schedule

I hope everyone is remembering to re-torque that bolt every 6000 miles or 10,000 KM.

Per Service bulletin Dec 7,2009. Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 08 GS Model number : All. Torque range 110N/m to 120N/m or 81 to 89 foot pounds.

Ken krb1945
 
Ken, your posting to this thread says re-torque every 6k miles, but the attachment to the private email you sent me says its a one-time thing. Which is correct?
 
Proper procedure is to loosen, then retorque. If you just check the torque without loosening, friction could cause you to have a false reading...and too low an actual torque value.
 
I will try to remember to take the camera with me when I go to pick my Spyder back up so I can get some pictures of my damaged parts as well.
 
RE-Torque every

6000 miles. I'll check that email attachment. Gary, I guess I haven't completely awakened from the good stuff they gave me at the hospital.:roflblack::ohyea: Ken krb1945
 
Better check the sprocket and shaft for both wear and play. Also make sure you are running the newest, reduced belt tension spec. The bolts shouldn't break that readily if they are properly torqued. Have you checked your torque wrench calibration lately?
 
Better check the sprocket and shaft for both wear and play. Also make sure you are running the newest, reduced belt tension spec. The bolts shouldn't break that readily if they are properly torqued. Have you checked your torque wrench calibration lately?


Scotty: I'll have my dealer check all of that when I take it in next week. Thanks for the head's up! :thumbup:
 
My clicking or clunking noise was definitely coming from the motor / transmission area. It only was noticeable when I was decelerating and the engine reached about 3000 RPMs. If I pulled in the clutch, the noise went away.

Wow that was the same issue I had a few weeks ago, the dealer called me and they have to replace the "pulley"
 
I got the same problem and i had an estimate from motorsports wpb seat down $2660 . Somebody know a good independant mechanical to fix it arround west palm beach ? They want to change the countrr shaft


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
 
As I look at that worn out sprocket it doesn't appear that the teeth are very deep compared to the new one. I would think if the sprocket teeth are worn then it would be a good thing to replace the shaft as well as those teeth would also be worn?
 
Hard to say...

Not seeing the parts...the ones shown here were from an obsolete sproket later replaced with a double sided on and some with a counterweight. I recently replaced my sproket cause the bolt came loose but the shaft is a harder metal and suffers less damage. New sproket , bolt and washer and back on the road. There are other ways if the shaft is damaged but not at a dealer....

20150630_104820.jpg 20150630_121204.jpg 20150630_121226.jpg I would start with a new sproket and bolts about $70 cheapcycleparts.com
 
Did anyone catch that this post is from September of 2009?

:oldpost:

Most of the people on the first page (excluding Lamont), have not been on SL for a few years.
 
Last edited:
Yes old post but the topic is good for me and thank for your comments , i'll check tomorrow the sprocket and bolt


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
 
Not seeing the parts...the ones shown here were from an obsolete sproket later replaced with a double sided on and some with a counterweight. I recently replaced my sproket cause the bolt came loose but the shaft is a harder metal and suffers less damage. New sproket , bolt and washer and back on the road. There are other ways if the shaft is damaged but not at a dealer....

View attachment 141131 View attachment 141132 View attachment 141133 I would start with a new sproket and bolts about $70 cheapcycleparts.com

Not so cheap there. $109.95 just for sprocket. Of course lot cheaper than $2600.00
David
 
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