• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Counter shaft pulley...again

docdoru

docdoru

Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Déjà vu grounding noises, this time with a broken retainer bolt. First time the bike was 50K (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14189) now she is 7,890 miles.
Joe at West Coast Power sports in Clearwater manages to extract the remaining bolt from the shaft and replace the pulley and bolt. Thanks to Lamonster and BJT for help.
Here are some pics:
DSC00854.jpg

DSC00853.jpg

DSC00852.jpg

DSC00851.jpg
 
my spyder just developed a grinding noise/clunking, especially when i let off the throttle and feels like they are coming from between my feet. is that how yours was acting? if my pulley has the same problem, could it just fall off? i am out of town and i got 300 miles to home.
 
Last edited:
aka1004 said:
my spyder just developed a grinding noise/clunking, especially when i let off the throttle and feels like they are coming from between my feet. is that how yours was acting? if my pulley has the same problem, could it just fall off? i am out of town and i got 300 miles to home.
Click to expand...

aka, that is the noise that I remember. Get it to the dealer as soon as you can.
 
IMO you can drive home just avoid the "engine brake" (down shifting at high RPM). The symptoms are the same. :( Than, to the dealer ASAP.
 
docdoru said:
IMO you can drive home just avoid the "engine brake" (down shifting at high RPM). The symptoms are the same. :( Than, to the dealer ASAP.
Click to expand...


:agree: Same symptoms as mine had. I rode back from Mosheim, TN. to Michigan with mine making the noise. That was after they fixed my broken bolt and worn pulley, just like in Doc's picture. The second time is when they determined that the shaft was bad too.
 
Rusty bolt.
You can even see the point of entry and then the propagation of the rust to the interior of the bolt shaft.
You're supposed to lubricate a bolt before you put it in.nojoke
 
I am a bit concerned as I guess we all are. I have had mine replaced once at about 38,000.

A few questions to Doc since you are a 'lead the fleet' type of rider;
Do you do a lot of engine braking?
Do you think that replacing the bolts with a better grade would help prevent this? I am asking for an opinion here.
Should we be looking for an aftermarket supplier for this part?
 
Recluze said:
I am a bit concerned as I guess we all are. I have had mine replaced once at about 38,000.

A few questions to Doc since you are a 'lead the fleet' type of rider;
Do you do a lot of engine braking?
Do you think that replacing the bolts with a better grade would help prevent this? I am asking for an opinion here.
Should we be looking for an aftermarket supplier for this part?
Click to expand...
Yes, I'm using a lot of engine braking with double-clutching (like in all sport bikes I had).
IMO the bolt is not the cause but the effect of the problem: too much stress for the splines on the shaft vs/pulley at the pitch line.
A crowned spline can be analyzed for torque capacity except that the tooth contact is more of a point load condition rather than the conformal contact of a straight spline.
:chat:
 
docdoru said:
Yes, I'm using a lot of engine braking with double-clutching (like in all sport bikes I had).
IMO the bolt is not the cause but the effect of the problem: too much stress for the splines on the shaft vs/pulley at the pitch line.
A crowned spline can be analyzed for torque capacity except that the tooth contact is more of a point load condition rather than the conformal contact of a straight spline.
:chat:
Click to expand...
How do you double clutch a motorcycle? There isn't a neutral between each gear.
 
Chicken or Egg?

The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out farther on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
 
Last edited:
NancysToy said:
The big question to me is which happens first? There are some that say the bolt cracks and loosens first, allowing the splines to wear, while others feel the spline wear allows play, which eventually damages the bolt. If the splines wear first, due to improper design, improper alloys, or improper heat treating...a stronger bolt, or Loctite, would be of little value. If the bolts are going away, there is still a question as to why the splines wear so badly, and why all the damaged pulleys I have seen were worn to the same point...none had slipped out father on the shaft and left the outside ends of the splines (except the very outer edge) intact. I intend to Loctite the bolts, and even replace them with a higher grade, but I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
Click to expand...
A very good question for the Can-Am R&D...:popcorn:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top