• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Cooling Fan Manual Override Switch

R

rleathen

New member
Well as I indicated in a previous post I intended to install a manual override switch for the cooling fan. Well this morning I finished the mod. Basically what I did was take a 12 volt source through a fuse (15A) and switch (25 amp rated) to the 12 volt power line to the cooling fan AFTER the fan relay.

I installed my fan switch in the dash and connected my fused and switch power line to the fan power line via a posi-tap connector. prior to actually making the connection and based on previous postings about mixed up BRP wiring I verified that the fan wire I was going to tap into was actually the power side and not the ground side. All wiring was placed within wire protectors and all ends were soldered and heat shrink wrapped.

After the installation I ran a 2 part test to verify proper operation. I started the bike and immediately and successfully turned the fan on with my new override switch. I then shut the fan off and let the bike warm up until the computer switched the fan on. With the fan running by way of the control signal from the computer and then turned my fan override switch on. The fan kept running and there were no complaints from the computer.

Attached you will find various pictures of the process. I apologize for the quality of the picture showing where the posi-tap is connected.
 
Nice job - makes it very simple. I was worried about any isolation problems or loop-back problems, but it sounds like keeping it simple worked well in this instance.

So it IS the positive that is switched - good thing to know.

Any tests to see if you're running cooler with it on?
 
I did do one further test. I started the bike up and turned the fan on. I let the bike idle until I reached 5 bars when the fan would normally turn on. I will tell you it took a heck of a long time before I reached 5 bars. I will be taking it for a longer ride later this week during which time I will "play" with it for a bit. My original plan was to turn the fan on when I hit 4 bars and I was in stop and go traffic to perhaps delay when the computer would turn the fan on or at the very least slow down the "quick" heating as a result of not moving much. I am not sure I really want to use it at 4 bars all the time. Like some I believe that the Rotax works much better hot. So in essence my reasons for installing the override switch was not to allow it to run cooler but to delay and hopefully eliminate the nasty Limp mode if and when it does overheat.
 
A couple of days riding with the mod and not one complaint from the computer. The bike does obviously run cooler with the fan running. Still trying to find a good balance between when to let the bike run hotter and when to turn the fan on manually. Unfortunately I have not had the luxury of riding in stop and go traffic in the extreme heat...it has been raining off and on for the last few days !
 
AWESOME!! I was thinking of doing the same thing... now you've eliminated the guess work! Nice DIY! :firstplace:
 
rleathen said:
A couple of days riding with the mod and not one complaint from the computer. The bike does obviously run cooler with the fan running. Still trying to find a good balance between when to let the bike run hotter and when to turn the fan on manually. Unfortunately I have not had the luxury of riding in stop and go traffic in the extreme heat...it has been raining off and on for the last few days !
Click to expand...
My thought is that a temperature sensor (preferably adjustable) and a relay would be easier to deal with than a manual switch. I can see how it would be quite difficult to know when to manually turn on the fan switch before you got hot. In stop and go I would just switch it on and let the thermostat control the temp, I think. Of course the easiest thing would be for BRP to make the thing adjustable or just lower the operating temperature, through a BUDS update. Wishful thinking........
-Scotty
velo.gif
 
Anyone see a problem just leaving the fan on all the time? I doubt you could cool things down too much with that fan.
 
Well had a chance to take the bike out for quite a long ride and played with the fan override switch. It works like a charm in keeping the bike at about 4 bars in stop and go traffic. I would not suggest keeping the fan running all the time, not because of some technical reason but more of a personal comfort reason. Leaving the fan on all the time will cause warm air from the radiator to be blown on your right foot ALL THE TIME and not just when the computer would normally turn the fan on.

Other then this minor issue I think this mod is a keeper !!!
 
I just did the same thing as "rleathen", except that I soldered the connection at the fan without disturbing the OEM wire.

I had previously planned on doing something like this on Spyder #1, but I didn't get it done before the fire. Now Spyder #2 benefits from this thread and the many contributions to my previous thread on this subject and all of the thinking which has preceded what in the end was a very simple job.

I intend to use my fan switch only very rarely. It will be used in heavy traffic where I am moving very slowly, and in stop and go situations. It will not be used in normal traffic situations either on the highway, or in town.

I have not used the fan switch yet, but there is something comforting about knowing I can use it. The downside is the fan blows serious hot air on my leg.
 
just had my first...

over temp yesterday afternoon at 6:30 pm here in Florida. Ambient temperature was 91 and humidity 90 percent... I had to relearn the breast stroke just to be outside around here the air is so wet. I was adjusting the drive belt with short rides after each tweak. I zipped about a mile up the road and stopped to check the belt alignment. Took all of 45 seconds to check sliding back on the seat. Belt ok... slide forward on the seat... temperature not ok... Temp gauge all bars lit up... limp mode en-gauged.:gaah: I checked the fuse, made sure fan relay in tight and looked at coolant reservior. All were normal... oh also checked to make sure the coolant tank cap was on tight. Everything as it should be except for the temp gauge still all bars lit.

Just pulled the relay for testing. Will know more in a few minutes.
 
krb1945 said:
over temp yesterday afternoon at 6:30 pm here in Florida. Ambient temperature was 91 and humidity 90 percent... I had to relearn the breast stroke just to be outside around here the air is so wet. I was adjusting the drive belt with short rides after each tweak. I zipped about a mile up the road and stopped to check the belt alignment. Took all of 45 seconds to check sliding back on the seat. Belt ok... slide forward on the seat... temperature not ok... Temp gauge all bars lit up... limp mode en-gauged.:gaah: I checked the fuse, made sure fan relay in tight and looked at coolant reservior. All were normal... oh also checked to make sure the coolant tank cap was on tight. Everything as it should be except for the temp gauge still all bars lit.

Just pulled the relay for testing. Will know more in a few minutes.
Click to expand...

At that temp fan should have been full on, was it? :dontknow:

If not, and more than five bars were lit my bet is on a bad relay.:thumbup:

MM

MM
 
Just did the test...

Here it is 4:54 am and I'm doing test on this :cus: spyder. A bad relay at just 2250 miles. BRP must have gotten a big batch of defective relays during 08 building year.

I have a duralast as a spare but I would like to have the R3110... better and more durable. But here in the Keystone Heights are they are real proud of them. $30.00 for this $9.00 relay.

Well off to do some hunting on the net.

Folks... have a super morning!:thumbup:
 
Is there room for a marine bilge blower?That is an idea I saw somewhere.$22 cylinder with a lot of force.It could be ducted away from body parts and make a big diff.What do you think?
 
Just wondering, Will the fan running constantly at low rpm's pull too much juice from the battery? The Spyder has an magneto not an alternator. The engine has to run at a set temp. That's the job of the thermostat. If its over heating some thing else is going on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
2013 RT-S Blade Nut Came Off the Fan Motor!
Replies
2
Views
149
BuddyMack
B
SteveandBelinda
2022 RT Ltd - fan ran the entire ride home & then would not shut off, even when I shut off the Spyder - anyone else? Any ideas?
Replies
7
Views
462
VitoNam
VitoNam
msgoodwrench
At what point does the cooling fan come on wrt temp gauge?
Replies
9
Views
2K
msgoodwrench
msgoodwrench
W
Are 2024/25 F3's missing the 2 Accessory Circuits? What have you done about this on yours?
2
Replies
21
Views
863
Jaxsnsandy
Jaxsnsandy
Cloak
Any idea on which way the wires go on the Fog Light Switch?
Replies
6
Views
270
Cloak
Cloak
Back
Top