Coolant Change ? Read this first

[C3517C]

As it turns out, this is a pretty well documented problem. Unfortunately, I wasn't aware of it until it was too late. When you unscrew the drain plug on your radiator, it is highly likely that the radiator nut-ring, which the drain plug screws into, will break free from the radiator itself. This leaves you with a hole in your radiator and no easy way to secure the nut-ring back into place. The scary thing is that there was really nothing holding it into place. It sort of just fell out as soon as I put a little pressure on it. (see picture) In order to prevent this from happening, drain the coolant by removing the bottom radiator hose, do not touch the drain plug. This is clearly more work up front, but it will save you the repair hassle.
For my welding friends, is there any possibility that the nut can be welded back in without removing the radiator ? I'm guessing the work space would be too tight, but who knows. I see somebody else has used JB weld. Not a bad idea, but if doesn't hold you will be left roadside somewhere. I'm going over my options.

 

[Dan McNally]

That sure looks like a manufacturer's defect, unless you have an old Spyder that has never been drained . . .

 

[Jeriatric]

Thats a real bummer.

 

[Chupaca]

No way..!!

thanks for the reminder..this has happened to a few and they also warned against pulling the plug. No way to weld it back without removing the radiator. No way of knowing if this problem was fixed so testing is a crap shoot. Here's a thought...JB weld around the plug before trying to take it off. Best is to drain from the hose....thanks again..!! :thumbup:

 

[C3517C]

Thanks, I figured it was unlikely it could be welded without removal.

 

[Spyder4Tess]

Wow,that's messed up.
Best to remove to have it soldered or welded.

What type of clamp is used on the hose?

 

[Big Arm]

Sorry to hear of your problem. ......bummer ...!!!
I changed my fluid this summer, and didn't touch the drain plug after reading previous post about that. I think I even remember Lamont posting about this sveral yrs. ago. Good luck on getting it re-welded.

 

[jcthorne]

Sounds like a good reason to remove it for service WHILE the bike is under warranty and see if you have a defective one. That is a defect and is covered by the warranty. And if its dead in my garage, BRP can send a truck to get the bike too.

Poor welding. Pure and simple. Test the replacement too.

 

[MikeinGA]

Thanks, I figured it was unlikely it could be welded without removal.

The best place to take it is a radiator repair shop. I changed my coolant in my 2011 RS-S this year with no problems. I must have gotten one of the good radiators. The thing is that the coolant was in good condition and a waste of my $$$ and my time.

Mike

 

[ulflyer]

Theres been several posts about how easy the plugs wring off with the advice to drain via the hose. I first heard of this from a tech at Honda/Can Am of Winston-Salem who said he'd had two of the plugs to wring off.

 

[DR Buck]

The best place to take it is a radiator repair shop. ............................................

Mike

Good luck on that! Around here all have gone out of business because of EPA requlations.

 

[cuznjohn]

new radiator

a new radiator is almost 300 bucks, if it is easy pull it and have it welded

 

[CyncySpyder]

Even if its Out of Warranty, I'd still call your dealer to see if BRP will cover it

We had an issue with leaking coolant and oil late last year and took Teds Red Sled to our local shop and while doing the repair, they went to change the coolant and also pulled the plug... breaking it. BRP covered it under warranty & this is a known defect, so I'd think (& IMHO) that even if your machine is out of warranty, they should still cover the repair. Couldn't hurt to call your dealer and ask

 

[Spyder4Tess]

so I'd think (& IMHO) that even if your machine is out of warranty, they should still cover the repair. Couldn't hurt to call your dealer and ask

I would certainly think the shop would have to pony up for the repair if they broke it during a service,warranty or not.

 

[YIRYDE]

This is the first I heard of this and I just changed my coolant without any problems. I would have the radiator replaced like others have recommended.

 

[Sarge707]

The best place to take it is a radiator repair shop. I changed my coolant in my 2011 RS-S this year with no problems. I must have gotten one of the good radiators. The thing is that the coolant was in good condition and a waste of my $$$ and my time.

Mike

:agree: I changed the coolant on my 09GS in early 2012 and had NO problem?:dontknow: Would probably do the Hose method next time!

 

[jerpinoy]

The plug is more likely made in china.:yikes::yikes: Seriously, if JB weld can do the job that will be nice.

 

[C3517C]

Thanks for the advise. I'm going to try to see if BRP will cover it, even though my Spyder just went out of warranty a short time ago.
The hose clamp on the bottom radiator hose is crimped. You will have to cut it off at the crimp spot. I have not personally done it, but it can be done with metal snips or a dremmel cutter. It can be replaced with a screw on hose clamp when you are done.
I was changing my coolant because it is recommended to be changed at 2 years. The coolant that came out looked brand new. Not one speck of any debris. If I had a chance, I would leave it for at least another year, maybe 2.

 

[NancysToy]

Common problem with lots of different vehicles. The petcock tightens up due to corrosion or thermal expansion, then the thin metal it is attached to fails when the petcock is forced a bit to loosen it. The old mechanic's trick of removing the lower radiator hose connection is the best approach to the problem on any vehicle. JMHO

 

[pwilbarger]

My dealer broke mine off when changing the coolant on my '10 RTS this spring. They replaced the radiator under warranty.