Coolant and oil

[k4zztop]

Hi all I have a 2010 spyder rt I got used and we love it. The guy I got it from had the oil changed by a friend of his. I am getting ready to do the oil change my self I ordered the kit from Amazon. I have heard that most use a different and better oil and I want to try that next. But I want to change the coolant out. What coolant would y'all recommend that is as good or better that I can get local? A oil change here cost 450. And then add the coolant change it would get a lot higher that's why I am doing it myself.
Thanks

 

[Possible]

$450 for an oil change??!! OH. MY. GAWD.

I just did Peggy's 2013 STS, and it set me back less than $40. Granted it's a manual, but still...

I don't know the equivalent of the OEM premix, but premixed anti-freeze is a complete rip off, IMO. You pay as much, or more
for premix, and you're paying for water. I'm sure someone will be along to recommend a decent anti-freeze. It says it's green
so it could be pretty common stuff.

 

[ARtraveler]

Hi all I have a 2010 spyder rt I got used and we love it. The guy I got it from had the oil changed by a friend of his. I am getting ready to do the oil change my self I ordered the kit from Amazon. I have heard that most use a different and better oil and I want to try that next. But I want to change the coolant out. What coolant would y'all recommend that is as good or better that I can get local? A oil change here cost 450. And then add the coolant change it would get a lot higher that's why I am doing it myself.
Thanks

$300 - $350 is considered "normal." They must have a hefty hourly shop rate.

 

[Possible]

$300 - $350 is considered "normal." They must have a hefty hourly shop rate.

Is that for an oil change? Or other service too?

 

[k4zztop]

Is that for an oil change? Or other service too?

I almost fell out when he told me that i told him i was going to do it myself he said good luck. Before i brought the spyder the guy had a new battery install after i had it a couple weeks got ready to ride would not crank. I checked and decided to check the battery i removed enought panels to see the battery good and one of the terminals was loose so i have already experience the panels. I will save the 450

 

[JayBros]

Use any brand of oil meeting the API service codes specified in pg 153 of your operator's guide. If you don't have an OG you can download one at this link, http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=e&s1=94099ae7-446d-4827-8ac1-7230f5e328bb&brands=roadster&type=og. Just drill down to the 2010 RT model. Page 154 tells what type of coolant you should use.

 

[k4zztop]

Thanks for that info real good!

 

[Possible]

I think they changed to the orange coolant in later years, so you might check to make sure you still have the green stuff.
Mixing the orange and green is supposed to be a bad thing.

Personally I'd buy some good green stuff, minus the silicates of course, dilute it to what you want with distilled water and
do that yourself too. I think there's only one drain plug, but I believe there have been issues with the drain plug on the
radiators on some models.

 

[YumaGary]

It's been said on this forum do not drain antifreeze through the drain plug. Disconnect the lower hose to drain. Drain plugs tend to break,

 

[2dogs]

$17.00 for a filter $10.00 for a quart of oil. (That's retail.) Do the math, $450 is out and out extortion.

 

[Bfromla]

:congrats::welcome:Manual or SE transmission? SE will have extra filter, don’t wanna skip. Radiator please confirm what color antifreeze is currently being used, mixing colors gums things up throughout the system. Many of drain plugs especially older ones snap rather than turn. The bottom hose is a safer choice possibly easier when spider is elevated. There are few how to videos on YouTube available. Enjoy getting to know you spyder more intimately.:2thumbs:opcorn:

 

[carbonation]

It's been said on this forum do not drain antifreeze through the drain plug. Disconnect the lower hose to drain. Drain plugs tend to break,

^^^^^^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^^^^^
As far as coolant, I shy away from the AMAM type (all makes all models), and DexCool. It's my experience that coolant with 2-EHA can slime, eat plasticisers in gaskets, and turn bad under some conditions.
Beck and Arnley Extended Life Pink, Peak Antifreeze and Coolant, and Rotella ELC NF are my go to for nearly anything with a radiator. Zerex G05 is good too, but the silicates can and will eventually drop out if left in service too long.
https://www.peakhd.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/201912_ARF24529_PEAK-PREMIUM-AFC-SPEC-SHEETS-R1-1.pdf?x38462
https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/lubricants-heavy-duty-products/antifreeze-coolant/_jcr_content/par/toptasks.stream/1490828339244/45be62c8af63663a945e2b2a000db5d6280c6559/shell-rotella-elc-nf.PDF

 

[k4zztop]

Yes they told me it was mostly labor but also they would check different things out ( so they can make more money) I made my mind up I was doing it myself

 

[ARtraveler]

Is that for an oil change? Or other service too?

Oil change/filter service. It is supposed to include a check over of other stuff. If additional "work" is needed...you will end up paying for parts & labor additional. The old "valve check" service on the 998's would cost around $1000. That is why most people never did them. But...that's another story.