Hello again, I read up on the testing the relay and the solenoid, the issue is it requires power to do the testing and if I connect the cables correctly the bike will continue to turn over and not stop. Not unless I can leave the cable off to the solenoid, but how would i get proper test voltages. I have removed both the violet wire and yellow wire, still when I touch the positive to the battery starter engages.
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Connect Starter Solenoid
- Thread starter Knipper
- Start date
When looking for a new solenoid Amazon sells them for 2012 Spyder RT roadster for $7.99, do you know if it will work. Instead of paying $55 at the dealer. Although 7.99 seems to cheap to me. The one difference is both small terminals are on one side where the solenoid in the bike has the two small wire terminals on opposite side. My spyder 2012 Audio. Convenience model
Amazon solenoid
Cyleto Starter Solenoid Relay for CAN AM SPYDER RTS Roadster/SPYDER RT Roadster/SPYDER RS RSS Roadster
Amazon solenoid
Cyleto Starter Solenoid Relay for CAN AM SPYDER RTS Roadster/SPYDER RT Roadster/SPYDER RS RSS Roadster
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Ok then. That tells us a lot. If you removed one or both of the small wires from the solenoid, and it still turned over, that tells you that it was a problem with the solenoid, and not a problem with the pre-start relay. Because, removing the small wires from the solenoid prevents any power from getting to the solenoid from the pre-start relay in the first place, and accidentally energizing it when it is not supposed to. There's something wrong internally with the solenoid. I'd feel comfortable replacing the solenoid at this point.
But if you want to be doubly sure, remove the red wire that comes from the battery from the solenoid stud, such that there is nothing at all on that stud. Use your meter, set it to continuity testing, and take a reading across the two large studs on the solenoid. One stud has nothing on it at all, and the other has the starter motor wire. And that's ok. If it reads close to 0 ohms, you have a internal short on the solenoid. Go ahead and replace it. After that, cut it open and see what happened if you want.
FYI for the future - that 12 volt accessory plug on the left hand side of the rear trunk is always energized, even if the key is off. That's a nice feature of the 2012. So, you can get the proper plug-in connector for your battery tender and just plug it into that accessory plug. You don't need any extra wires going to the battery.
But if you want to be doubly sure, remove the red wire that comes from the battery from the solenoid stud, such that there is nothing at all on that stud. Use your meter, set it to continuity testing, and take a reading across the two large studs on the solenoid. One stud has nothing on it at all, and the other has the starter motor wire. And that's ok. If it reads close to 0 ohms, you have a internal short on the solenoid. Go ahead and replace it. After that, cut it open and see what happened if you want.
FYI for the future - that 12 volt accessory plug on the left hand side of the rear trunk is always energized, even if the key is off. That's a nice feature of the 2012. So, you can get the proper plug-in connector for your battery tender and just plug it into that accessory plug. You don't need any extra wires going to the battery.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Yeah, when searching for replacement solenoids, you want to be sure that the terminals are in the same layout, and that the mounting feet are in the same configuration. Otherwise, you don't have a lot of extra wire length to try to move things around under there. I like plug and play myself. Even if it costs a little more.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
:agree: Just what I was going to suggest!
Hello
Happy Easter new solenoid installed and it works, all is good, but I do have one question I was trying to remove the trail module control for the lights, I disconnected the control and tried to reconnect to the spare 4 pin connector, but the connectors will not connect together. There is orange female connector and its to large to fit into the regular connector, I was wondering if the orange connector was adapter inside the plug and can it be removed to reconnect the lights.
I did notice one other thing when I took the old solenoid out it did read ohms across the two small tabs 5 ohms, the new one read 2.50 ohms, so you still can have continuity and have a bad solenoid.
Once again thanks to everyone for the help.
Henry K
Happy Easter new solenoid installed and it works, all is good, but I do have one question I was trying to remove the trail module control for the lights, I disconnected the control and tried to reconnect to the spare 4 pin connector, but the connectors will not connect together. There is orange female connector and its to large to fit into the regular connector, I was wondering if the orange connector was adapter inside the plug and can it be removed to reconnect the lights.
I did notice one other thing when I took the old solenoid out it did read ohms across the two small tabs 5 ohms, the new one read 2.50 ohms, so you still can have continuity and have a bad solenoid.
Once again thanks to everyone for the help.
Henry K
Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
Solenoid
Thanks For the Update. Enjoy Your Ryde Time. ........:thumbup:
Thanks For the Update. Enjoy Your Ryde Time. ........:thumbup:Update Installed new solenoid spyder ready to roll, thanks for the help, by the way I found the solenoid on eBay for $20.00 beats $55.00 that the dealer wanted, hopefully it will last for awhile. I just notice it time to replace the front brakes, any tips? At least I dont have to tear down half the bike, thank god for this web site, its a money savor the help you get is awesome.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
There is no 4 pin connector associated with the trailer harness except at the end of the pigtail to connect to a trailer. If you have the BRP trailer harness and module installed then here is what you have. A Y harness that connects into the main bike harness. Disconnect both ends of the Y and reconnect the two connectors in the main harness. The third connector is a squarish orange 6 pin connector that connects with the module connector. The module then connects to the pigtail to the trailer. Remove all three pieces and you will have the entire trailer module and harness off the bike.
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