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Compressor

ahh-cool

Member
I took the rear shock out to change the spring. I figured it would be a great time to troubleshoot the ACS system.
I unplugged the compressor and wired it directly to the battery. I can hear the motor spinning.
It sounded like it was spinning without any load. I removed the hose coming from the compressor and I don't feel any air coming out.
My questions are:
how much air should come out? It's a small compressor
Can I rebuild it?
How does it come out? Any tricks?
20141216_182141.jpg
 
Don't think it can be rebuilt. Had the same issue on my RT I dealt with it for 4 months this summer by manually filling the air shock. Pitbull fixed it (still under warranty) in October while at the LaMonster BBQ. Glad to have it back. The service guys actually said you could hear internal parts rattling around inside the compressor when you shook it.
 
There was another thread on this and they talked about the piston bolt had come loose and they were going to fix it. However it was under warranty and they replaced it instead
 
Those things do go bad. When they do, you will usually get an indication on your display when you try to change the setting with the buttons. It'll say something like "Manual Mode" or some such thing. I just had mine replaced under warranty last week. In my case, what had happened is that a hose in the system was leaking, making the compressor run almost all the time until it eventually failed.
 
Mine failed on my old 13rts too. It went on the manual mode on the screen. I took it to the dealer they replaced it, but a traded it for a 14rts before I could try it. I guess it's the new owners problem.
I did notice on the 14 though I have to run it all the way up on the bars to get what a like for a ride feel. I didn't have to do that on the 13rts. I asked the dealer if there is a air pressure setting I could adjust. (Add more air) They said it's factory set. My question is what is the air pressure factory set to? I can't find it in the manual.
 
There was a post about a year ago where a guy had one fail out of warranty and he took it apart and fixed it. So it can be done. He posted pictures and everything of the process. You just have to go looking for that post.

Bob
 
I guess that the question may become; is the effort to attempt to re-build the compressor, going to save enough money to make it worthwhile?
What is the cost of the compressor?

(Okay: TWO questions... :D)
 
There was a post about a year ago where a guy had one fail out of warranty and he took it apart and fixed it. So it can be done. He posted pictures and everything of the process. You just have to go looking for that post.

Bob

Thanks bob, I'm going to look for the post
Stefan
 
I guess that the question may become; is the effort to attempt to re-build the compressor, going to save enough money to make it worthwhile?
What is the cost of the compressor?

(Okay: TWO questions... :D)

I think they are about $400. rebuilding it should be easy if you can get the parts.
Removing the compressor from the bike is the hard part.
Still can't find the bolts that hold it together
Stefan
 
The compressor p/n is 503192517 and lists for $329.99 USD.

That's a lot of money, for something that fits in the palm of my hand.
I'm still trying to figure out how to remove it. according to the book it is held on by two bolts.
The bolts must be on the top because I can't see them from the bottom.
I'm hoping if I remove the plastic shield I can get to them.
Not even sure if I'm going to need the compressor, since I'm changing the springs to a heavier spring.
Stefan
 
The ride adjustment is not pressure driven but ride height driven.
The ride height sensor is set using Buds.

My dealer and I have adjusted my 2010 RT several times using BUDS after each of the replacement instrument clusters were installed. You do the following:


  1. Connect the Spyder to BUDS & select the Settings Page and then the ACC folder.
  2. Park the Spyder on a level surface.
  3. Inflate the rear tire to 28 psi.
  4. Place 30 lbs in the rear trunk.
  5. Jack the rear up using the rearmost point on the frame until the rear mounting bolt of the passenger foot rests is 348mm (13.701 in.) above the floor, which is the low position.
  6. Place the ignition switch to ON.
  7. Press 'Position Sensor Reset LOW Position' in BUDS.
  8. Lift the Spyder until the rear bolt is 403mm (15.866 in.) above the floor.
  9. Press 'Position Sensor Rest HIGH Position' in BUDS.
  10. Turn off the ignition switch for 30 seconds.
  11. Lower the Spyder to the ground.
  12. Start the Spyder and let it run at idle while checking the ACS suspension to confirm it is working properly.
 
My dealer and I have adjusted my 2010 RT several times using BUDS after each of the replacement instrument clusters were installed. You do the following:


  1. Inflate the rear tire to 28 psi.
  2. Place 30 lbs in the rear trunk.

that makes more sense than finding a 210# person to sit on the seat, especially for adjusting the lights
Stefan
 
My dealer and I have adjusted my 2010 RT several times using BUDS after each of the replacement instrument clusters were installed. You do the following:


  1. Connect the Spyder to BUDS & select the Settings Page and then the ACC folder.
  2. Park the Spyder on a level surface.
  3. Inflate the rear tire to 28 psi.
  4. Place 30 lbs in the rear trunk.
  5. Jack the rear up using the rearmost point on the frame until the rear mounting bolt of the passenger foot rests is 348mm (13.701 in.) above the floor, which is the low position.
  6. Place the ignition switch to ON.
  7. Press 'Position Sensor Reset LOW Position' in BUDS.
  8. Lift the Spyder until the rear bolt is 403mm (15.866 in.) above the floor.
  9. Press 'Position Sensor Rest HIGH Position' in BUDS.
  10. Turn off the ignition switch for 30 seconds.
  11. Lower the Spyder to the ground.
  12. Start the Spyder and let it run at idle while checking the ACS suspension to confirm it is working properly.
Man that's a lot of work just to raise the rear of the spyder about 2 inches.
 
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