Compressor/Airbag system

[Windagetray]

SO, pursuant to a former post of mine, the compressor died and there is probably a leak somewhere. I'm not really happy about any of that considering it's JUST out of warranty. I don't really trust my local Spyder dealer to do anything but install that same crap compressor, air bag, valves, and connectors that BRP used in the first place so, I've decided to build a system the way is SHOULD have been built in the first place. Since I have to strip the damn thing apart to begin with, I have nothing to lose over paying the stealer**** to do this for me.

I have seen posted on here an upgraded compressor (Viair 097C) and will use that unless someone suggests something better. (not cheaper but BETTER) ....I intend to upgrade the piping as well as the connectors. By question is does anyone know of any place to source a better (or BEST) air bag that would fit this application? If anyone knows of better quality release and check valves to use in the system, I am ALL EARS. I'm also planning to install a by-pass so that if the on-board leveling electronics ever goes "tilt" (which actually could have started all my problems in the first place), I'll be able to by-pass the whole leaking, broken mess such that the Schrader valve basically goes directly to the air-bag and I can pump it up manually without interrupting a ride too badly.

As always, thank you in advance for any advice you may offer on better or BEST components to use in this system!

Mike

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Good luck on finding another AB manufacturer. I was able to determine the OEM AB is made by Goodyear in Mexico. That was as far as I was able to get. That compressor is the same one I used on our RT and even though the AB has a small leak, the compressor is still working strong. I went in under to replace mine. Posted the video in a previous post.

 

[Grandpot]

You may want to consider doing this. Check thread:. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?98827-Air-Ryde-Rock-Guard

 

[Windagetray]

Thanks Doc

Good luck on finding another AB manufacturer. I was able to determine the OEM AB is made by Goodyear in Mexico. That was as far as I was able to get. That compressor is the same one I used on our RT and even though the AB has a small leak, the compressor is still working strong. I went in under to replace mine. Posted the video in a previous post.

For what it's worth, I just ordered the Air Ryde Guard and cat spring tool. However.... now that you mention that YOU have a small leak in your airbag...I'm hoping at least the guard did it's job???

Did you find you had to turn the compressor output 180 degrees to match the stock configuration ...and have a tight squeeze installing it like a poster mentioned who posted the procedure?

What do you mean by "I went in under to replace mine"? Does that mean I don't have to remove the seats, backs, rear storage assembly and fender?

Any chance you have an old AB to get dimensions and mounting details?

 

[Windagetray]

Exactly!

You may want to consider doing this. Check thread:. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?98827-Air-Ryde-Rock-Guard

On order along with a new airbag and compressor!

 

[Windagetray]

Compressor connector info needed...

So, now I am in contact with the fine folks at Viair and they are considering making direct replacements for us. However, I need to give them information on the original connector used on the BRP EOM compressor. Anyone have one of these out who can get me the make and model number off the plug/connector used on the compressor? It would be so great to have a part at 1/5 the price of the OEM and is more then 2 times reliable!

 

[Roadster Renovations]

For what it's worth, I just ordered the Air Ryde Guard and cat spring tool. However.... now that you mention that YOU have a small leak in your airbag...I'm hoping at least the guard did it's job???

Did you find you had to turn the compressor output 180 degrees to match the stock configuration ...and have a tight squeeze installing it like a poster mentioned who posted the procedure?

What do you mean by "I went in under to replace mine"? Does that mean I don't have to remove the seats, backs, rear storage assembly and fender?

Any chance you have an old AB to get dimensions and mounting details?

Ok, let's take these in order. When I found the leak and contacted the dealer they refused to exchange it for a new one. Said the work had to be done by them. I then decided to put 3 oz. of green slime in the airbag and put it all back together with the rock guard in place. It turned a leak that was bad enough to bleed off all the air in 2 hours' ryde time to only have the compressor come on for about 5 seconds after sitting for 24 hours. Since the duty cycle of that particular compressor is 10%, it can run as much as 6 minutes total in one hour. Pumping up like it is now, it will never have a problem with running too much. I may change it this winter, but I am almost to the point of not worrying about it. I think the Rock Guard actually helps seal the bottom of the air bag when it is pumped up. It may be losing a little, but not very much at all.

Yes, you will have to change the orientation 180 degrees. I used the original securing cage with longer bolts. Both compressors are very close in size, the motor area of the aftermarket is slightly larger, hence the longer bolts.

Here is the video I made to do this repair. It is very simple to drop the wheel and remove the upper inner fender. This gives you perfect access for everything. Here is the order of removal. Air Ryde sensor, Loosen tire axle bolt and bottom shock bolt remove the bottom air bag bolt and place jack just before the cat and support, then remove bottom shock bolt, then axle bolt and jack up rear high enough to remove tire after removing belt. Make sure you have the front tires chocked. Once the tire is out, let bike down to a better angle, the take off the two side panels under the seat. This will give you access to the 4 push pins that hold the inner shield on. It is a little work to remove it, but once it's off you are right where you need to be. Might want to remove the upper shock bolt and set assy aside for easier access.

I don't have an old one (put it back on) but the paper was torn up on the bottom so that was all the info I could get.

Before reassembly, I would clean the area very well where the bag sits of any debris. Here are two videos; one for the compressor and one for the rock guard. You will not need to remove exhaust parts since you are replacing the compressor.

Contact me if you need any help.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

So, now I am in contact with the fine folks at Viair and they are considering making direct replacements for us. However, I need to give them information on the original connector used on the BRP EOM compressor. Anyone have one of these out who can get me the make and model number off the plug/connector used on the compressor? It would be so great to have a part at 1/5 the price of the OEM and is more then 2 times reliable!

BRP needs to change suppliers to these guys. Good, quality product.

BTW: Have them contact me. I think I have the old compressor with the pigtail still connected to it. I can shoot it to them if they want.

 

[Windagetray]

Will do.

BRP needs to change suppliers to these guys. Good, quality product.

BTW: Have them contact me. I think I have the old compressor with the pigtail still connected to it. I can shoot it to them if they want.

Doc, I will have Ryan get in contact with you Re: the compressor connector. Thank you for all your help above. I'm not crazy about removing the wheel again (just did a rear tire change) but if it means not having to remove all the rear Tupperware and seats it's probably worth it. Thank again.

 

[Bob Denman]

This sure looks like an interesting project; the best of luck to you! :thumbup:
Question: Does the Viair compressor also give you the capacity to pump-up (or at least top-off), tires also? :dontknow:

 

[Roadster Renovations]

This sure looks like an interesting project; the best of luck to you! :thumbup:
Question: Does the Viair compressor also give you the capacity to pump-up (or at least top-off), tires also? :dontknow:

You could probably rig something to do that as long as you didn't exceed that 10% duty cycle. I'll just stick with the Habor Freight cheapy compressor in the side case for now though.

It is a superior compressor to BRP's IMHO though.

 

[pegasus1300]

For those attempting to replace their compressors I learned something interesting at Red Rocks Rally. I was watching Spyder Lyter put an American flag LED on the rear of my Spyder. This required that the panels under the trunk be removed. His comment was "let's see if these tabs are broken". There are 2 tabs one on each side and sure enough,they were both broken off. I know that these panels were off only one other time and that was ehen the dealer replaced my compressor under warranty. So be aware and watch what you are doing to not break these tabs. Sorry I can't tell you how as both mine were broken already,but be careful.

 

[Bob Denman]

You don't need to worry too much about the absence of those tabs. nojoke
The eight screws that hold it in place; do a pretty good job! :thumbup:

 

[Windagetray]

Broken tabs...

Must that panel come off using Doc's method to get to the compressor via tire removal?

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Must that panel come off using Doc's method to get to the compressor via tire removal?

The two panels just in front of the side cases. Not hard to remove. You might fish the pins out, but my hands were too large. I fought it for about 10 minutes and then broke down and pulled them. Maybe someone else has found a "shorter" shortcut!

 

[Windagetray]

Thanks...

This sure looks like an interesting project; the best of luck to you! :thumbup:
Question: Does the Viair compressor also give you the capacity to pump-up (or at least top-off), tires also? :dontknow:

Thank you about the project. I am just so sick of the crappy, inferior parts BRP used in my $30,000.00 machine as well as the $#!tty way they treat their customers when they try to hold them accountable. If the dealer had bothered to tell me that the rear tire would last only 6K miles and then cost me $500+ to put another 6K tire on it, I do believe my machine wouldn't be sitting in MY garage right now (with a defective ACS that's gonna cost me hours of time and hundreds of dollars to repair. OK...so I'm don't venting. MAYBE.

I think Doc answered the Viair pumping up tire question. You could probably use it to top-off the tires but till you carried around a long enough hose and jury rigged a way to do it, you could easily carry a smaller compressor with a good plug kit and be done with it.

Anyhow... when I find out what killed my compressor (i.e. find the leaking part) I will make sure it never leaks again and then install the compressor according to Doc's directions.

 

[gerard]

2016 RT Compressor/Air Bag Issue Resolution??

Is anyone aware whether BRP has resolved the compressor/air bag issues that were prevalent in 2014 RT models?

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked::hun: You're the first person to use the word "prevalent"; why??
How many have failed? I don't recall seeing all that many 2014 gripes over the bags... nojoke

 

[larryd]

SO, pursuant to a former post of mine, the compressor died and there is probably a leak somewhere. I'm not really happy about any of that considering it's JUST out of warranty. I don't really trust my local Spyder dealer to do anything but install that same crap compressor, air bag, valves, and connectors that BRP used in the first place so, I've decided to build a system the way is SHOULD have been built in the first place. Since I have to strip the damn thing apart to begin with, I have nothing to lose over paying the stealer**** to do this for me.

I have seen posted on here an upgraded compressor (Viair 097C) and will use that unless someone suggests something better. (not cheaper but BETTER) ....I intend to upgrade the piping as well as the connectors. By question is does anyone know of any place to source a better (or BEST) air bag that would fit this application? If anyone knows of better quality release and check valves to use in the system, I am ALL EARS. I'm also planning to install a by-pass so that if the on-board leveling electronics ever goes "tilt" (which actually could have started all my problems in the first place), I'll be able to by-pass the whole leaking, broken mess such that the Schrader valve basically goes directly to the air-bag and I can pump it up manually without interrupting a ride too badly.

As always, thank you in advance for any advice you may offer on better or BEST components to use in this system!

Mike

When my air comp. failed this summer I could air up the air bag with the valve under the seat but as soon as I started the machine it would exhaust all the air...With the help of someone on this forum, they said to unplug the single wire going to the dump valve...Unplugging this wire required the use of most of my four letter word vocabulary, but it worked...I was able to air up the system and ride until my dealer made the repairs...

Over the winter I plan on making a disconnect that is accessible under the seat so when this happens the next time I can easily unplug this and air up the bag manually with the small air comp. I carry in the trunk...

If any company is going to make a retrofit kit for our Spyders I would like to have one in stock for the next failure...Please keep me advised...

larryd 2014 RTS

 

[R FUN]

I solved the problem for about .30 cents and no more problem. I bypassed the compressor and run a air line from the schrade valve to the air bag, not a big job.
I can adjust the air to whatever pressure I want but normally run at 85# as I run two up 99% of time. I never have to adjust it the whole riding season. I just did it on my friends 2012 RTL and he is very pleased. I purchased a compressor at Fred Myers for $15.00 and works great and also good for tire emergencys.
Anybody interested I will explain everything to do.
Roger