Comm System

[Trickie Dick]

Trickie,

That thing is right what I need! Problem now is where can you buy it? I sent an email to the vendor asking that very question and if they sold just the control module w/cables separate from the headsets. I have a bluetooth helmet - The Element by O'Neil and I am very pleased with it. Is there any other product out there like the BikeCom BlueTooth I can review as to see other options should I not be able to purchase the BikeCom?

Thanks!

Mole :spyder2:

I don't know. I would check the ratings etc on webbikeworld.com. You might contact them and ask. Usually at the end of the evaluation they will list the vendor that they got the unit from. BTW the BLu Virtu BAT-01 is another unit that they did a review of a few years ago that would do what you want. A lot cheaper too. The only problem is no one is selling it that I know of. I emailed the company few months ago and they said they are in the process of re organizing their distributor network.
I doubt you will find a unit that will talk to your current bluetooth helmet. I found out that the vendors make their blue tooth communications proprietary. ie scala only talks to scala and interphone to interphone etc.
Good luck
Dick

 

[moroccomole2004]

Update from the Vendor of the BikerCom

[FONT=&quot]FYI, Email response from the vendor who makes the BikerCom. I have written them back with interest in getting a unit. Will keep you all posted.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Mole :spyder2:
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thank you for your email and interest in the BikerCom.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The BikerCom is sold as a complete system and the Control Box cannot be used with Bluetooth headsets or helmets from other manufacturers.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The current BikerCom MSRP is $749 USD.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]If you would like to purchase your BikerCom directly from us I can offer you a discount at $699 USD including a free Noise Filter accessory and free FedEx shipping.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Sold Out![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Unfortunately we have just sold out of our inventory and are temporarily out of stock. A new production run is underway and we will have more BikerCom systems in the next two weeks. I apologise for the inconvenience and hope it’s okay if you can wait a while. The good news is that our newest stock is updated with improved Bluetooth A2DP profile connectivity. If this offer is acceptable with you please reply to my email and I will place your name on our waiting list and contact you when we have new BikerCom inventory.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I hope this information answers your questions and we welcome any further questions or comments you have.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]By the way, how did you find out about the BikerCom?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Kind Regards,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Benjamin Williams.[/FONT]

 

[ThreeWheels]

The Starcom! noise reduction is superb.

-Scotty

Interesting. I found quite the opposite. I don't blame the Starcom , I blame the Spyder. Very noisy bike. I had to install a filter for the Starcom and a filter for the Amplirider, and now I'm good to go.
I hope to get my Midland 75-822 CB radio soon and then I can try out the bike to bike.

 

[NancysToy]

Interesting. I found quite the opposite. I don't blame the Starcom , I blame the Spyder. Very noisy bike. I had to install a filter for the Starcom and a filter for the Amplirider, and now I'm good to go.
I hope to get my Midland 75-822 CB radio soon and then I can try out the bike to bike.

Odd, the one on my wife's Spyder is every bit as quiet as the one on my BMW. Which model Starcom1? Where did you get the power, and where did you run the speaker cable and any aux cables? Do you seem to have any performance issues with the Spyder that would indicate a bad plug wire, or some such? It was difficult to fit the standard unit from my BMW, so I need to order a second advanced unit for my RTS. I'll see how it compares soon, I guess. The audio system on the RTS is totally useless, so I need the comms to get my tunes back.

 

[ThreeWheels]

Odd, the one on my wife's Spyder is every bit as quiet as the one on my BMW. Which model Starcom1? Where did you get the power, and where did you run the speaker cable and any aux cables? Do you seem to have any performance issues with the Spyder that would indicate a bad plug wire, or some such? It was difficult to fit the standard unit from my BMW, so I need to order a second advanced unit for my RTS. I'll see how it compares soon, I guess. The audio system on the RTS is totally useless, so I need the comms to get my tunes back.

I ran a Blue Sea fusebox through a relay directly from the battery exactly like ataDude. I couldn't find any conditioned power from the Spyder Harness. I was also afraid of the computer nannies.
So, I have an Amplirider to gather inputs from my IPOD and my GPS. It also acts as a remote volume control. I took power from the fusebox separately to the Amplirider, Starcom 1 and my Garmin Zumo. Both the Amplirider and the Starcom required filters to eliminate the alternator whine.

 

[NancysToy]

I ran a Blue Sea fusebox through a relay directly from the battery exactly like ataDude. I couldn't find any conditioned power from the Spyder Harness. I was also afraid of the computer nannies.
So, I have an Amplirider to gather inputs from my IPOD and my GPS. It also acts as a remote volume control. I took power from the fusebox separately to the Amplirider, Starcom 1 and my Garmin Zumo. Both the Amplirider and the Starcom required filters to eliminate the alternator whine.

My aux fuseblock is run from the battery, too. I have never had problems, except when I hook up my GPS output, then I get noise...on either the BMW or the Spyder. If you unplug one input at a time, you can find sources like these. An isolated audio cable cures that, but I seldom use the GPS audio. Your Amplirider could contribute in the same way if you connect it to a Starcom1 input, I suppose. Locating any component or cable too close to the ignition wiring or coils, or running input or output cables parallel to any power cables, can cause noise. The Spyder does not have an alternator, but a magneto instead, and it is fully enclosed, so typical "alternator whine" from RFI is not as likely. Starcom does warn that using bike power can cause noise on some vehicles, and a filter may be required, but I have never experienced that problem, even with a direct connection.

 

[ThreeWheels]

My aux fuseblock is run from the battery, too. I have never had problems, except when I hook up my GPS output, then I get noise...on either the BMW or the Spyder. If you unplug one input at a time, you can find sources like these. An isolated audio cable cures that, but I seldom use the GPS audio. Your Amplirider could contribute in the same way if you connect it to a Starcom1 input, I suppose. Locating any component or cable too close to the ignition wiring or coils, or running input or output cables parallel to any power cables, can cause noise. The Spyder does not have an alternator, but a magneto instead, and it is fully enclosed, so typical "alternator whine" from RFI is not as likely. Starcom does warn that using bike power can cause noise on some vehicles, and a filter may be required, but I have never experienced that problem, even with a direct connection.

I can't explain our differences. No matter, my problem is solved with some simple filters. I replaced my MIT-100 with the Starcom 1 unit. $549 of Starcom to replace $199 of MIT-100. I bought my 1993 ST-1100 in 2005. Considering the age of the bike, I didn't want to spend that much for an intercom. With the cost of the RT S, I think the Starcom 1 is money well spent. My only disappointment is that I can't figure an easy way to take the output of the radio system and use that as an input to the Starcom. That way I could play the IPOD or the Radio through the headsets. The way it is now, I get the IPOD through the headset and the radio through the speaker.
Not a major problem, but still it would be nice to get it all through the Starcom.
The Can AM system won't handle a cell phone, and you're stuck with CB radio alone. With my set up I can switch a GMRS with a portable CB. Also, you have to get their version of the new Garmin ZUMO 660. I'm integrating my Zumo 550 into the system. At least I've run all the wires. I'm still waiting for the kewlmetal bracket to install the Zumo mount.

 

[NancysToy]

I can't explain our differences. No matter, my problem is solved with some simple filters. I replaced my MIT-100 with the Starcom 1 unit. $549 of Starcom to replace $199 of MIT-100. I bought my 1993 ST-1100 in 2005. Considering the age of the bike, I didn't want to spend that much for an intercom. With the cost of the RT S, I think the Starcom 1 is money well spent. My only disappointment is that I can't figure an easy way to take the output of the radio system and use that as an input to the Starcom. That way I could play the IPOD or the Radio through the headsets. The way it is now, I get the IPOD through the headset and the radio through the speaker.
Not a major problem, but still it would be nice to get it all through the Starcom.
The Can AM system won't handle a cell phone, and you're stuck with CB radio alone. With my set up I can switch a GMRS with a portable CB. Also, you have to get their version of the new Garmin ZUMO 660. I'm integrating my Zumo 550 into the system. At least I've run all the wires. I'm still waiting for the kewlmetal bracket to install the Zumo mount.

I can't wait to get my iPod back into my helmet speakers. I'm putting an extra 3.5 mm bulkhead connector in the rrunk, running to the Starcom. I set the iPod to shuffle, anyway, so I don't need the handlebar control for changing tunes. Losing the volume control and muting will be giving something up, but I don't have volume control with the other bikes, so it won't really matter. It would be nice to find a way to tap into the Spyder system. I'm not smart enough, but maybe somebody will do it someday and show us the way.

 

[ThreeWheels]

I can't wait to get my iPod back into my helmet speakers. I'm putting an extra 3.5 mm bulkhead connector in the rrunk, running to the Starcom. I set the iPod to shuffle, anyway, so I don't need the handlebar control for changing tunes. Losing the volume control and muting will be giving something up, but I don't have volume control with the other bikes, so it won't really matter. It would be nice to find a way to tap into the Spyder system. I'm not smart enough, but maybe somebody will do it someday and show us the way.

I did the same. Cell, IPOD and CB connection all in the rear trunk. Here's something interesting. If you run the 3.5 mm from the Starcom to the IPOD, and ALSO connect up the IPOD integration cable to the RT, you can put the the RT stereo into mute, and get the music through the Starcom headsets, but you can also select the songs using the handlebar ECC and the IPOD will stay charged up. If you change playlists, it seems to lose the shuffle function, but if you stay in the playlist you originally set up, you can skip the tunes using the forward or back buttons on the ECC.
Of course, if you stop for any reason and you want, take the stereo off mute and you get your IPOD tunes through both the speakers and the headset.

 

[NancysToy]

I did the same. Cell, IPOD and CB connection all in the rear trunk. Here's something interesting. If you run the 3.5 mm from the Starcom to the IPOD, and ALSO connect up the IPOD integration cable to the RT, you can put the the RT stereo into mute, and get the music through the Starcom headsets, but you can also select the songs using the handlebar ECC and the IPOD will stay charged up. If you change playlists, it seems to lose the shuffle function, but if you stay in the playlist you originally set up, you can skip the tunes using the forward or back buttons on the ECC.
Of course, if you stop for any reason and you want, take the stereo off mute and you get your IPOD tunes through both the speakers and the headset.

Never thought of that. Great idea. Thanks! :thumbup: Best of both worlds. I only have to wait for my trailer hitch to get here now, so I only have to take the rear Tupperware off once. Maybe I'll call Evan, too, and add a Triple Play at the same time.

 

[moroccomole2004]

Installed Starcom1, but issue with Jensen 910

Hey folks, I installed a Starcom1 Advanced and it is awesome. So in working on things I finally got my Jensen 910 wired correctly with no engine electrical noise and ran the Jensen R/L speakers to the Starcom. Worked great, so in wiring the Jensen 910 that way I figure I can cut the large phono jack off and just tape the wire. So I do that and then no sound comes from the Jensen! I peel back the wires of the phono jack and start messing around. When I tie the red and black wires together bam, I get sound! Issue is it is coming in an out. I think I need to solder the connection. Anyone have any thoughts on this which could help me? There are 5 wires for the large phono port:

Red
Black
Blue
Yellow
White

Help!