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code C0044 ABS failure

The switch is there, there are two wires coming out of the box but there is only one switch that I can see. It clicks when you press the pedal down and clicks again when it's released. But if there is a second switch it's hidden and impossible to get at to see without a lot of tear down.

Maybe because it is too obvious.
 

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Before I report , thank you for all the help on this nightmare.

So All I have done is check brake fluid, check fuses, disconnect the battery for an hour or so, check and inspect brake switches.

My original codes were 2, C0044 and C006C

Now in addition to them I have P0504, P061E, and P1614,

I assume these new code came from the battery disconnect?

Oh to add the new biggest problem the machine emits a loud high pitch wine after its shut off and it will not stop!

The throttle is evidently effected as well
 
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Before I report , thank you for all the help on this nightmare.

So All I have done is check brake fluid, check fuses, disconnect the battery for an hour or so, check and inspect brake switches.

My original codes were 2, C0044 and C006C

Now in addition to them I have P0504, P061E, and P1614,

I assume these new code came from the battery disconnect?

Oh to add the new biggest problem the machine emits a loud high pitch wine after its shut off and it will not stop!

So let's start with what you call your biggest problem. High pitched noise after you turn the key off. That is normal and I think is covered in your owners manual. Well that was easy to fix. :roflblack:

Take it for a drive and see if the other codes go away. Too bad people keep giving advice to disconnect the battery for a while and that will somehow fix something. It doesn't. Just a waste of time.

So back to the original problem. Is the low pressure switch working????????
 
So let's start with what you call your biggest problem. High pitched noise after you turn the key off. That is normal and I think is covered in your owners manual. Well that was easy to fix. :roflblack:

Take it for a drive and see if the other codes go away. Too bad people keep giving advice to disconnect the battery for a while and that will somehow fix something. It doesn't. Just a waste of time.

So back to the original problem. Is the low pressure switch working????????

Well I found some small rocks under the boot that holds the brake switch. The last thing I did was drive up my washed out dirt driveway. I don't see any damage, its not easy to get to see anything.

I can't take it for a ride now the Throttle is not functioning now

All the codes but for my limp throttle code are brake related it looks like a bit to take the switches out.
 
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I found this post "Question on Codes P061E and P0504" which explained a lot if it was the problem. He never says
 
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P0504
Brake signal vs brake pressure correlation check failed.
Driver may be activating the BLS for more than 2.5 sec without building more than 10 psi of hydraulic pressure in the brake system. Riding the brake pedal.
BLS may be always activated.
Fuse F5 may be blown.

P061E
Low brake pressure activated before brake light switch. Not plausible.
Fuse F5 may be blown.

P1614
Throttle body may need to cleaned.
Throttle body position sensor may need to reset. Hook up to Buds required.
Throttle body may need to be replaced.
 
Well I found some small rocks under the boot that holds the brake switch. The last thing I did was drive up my washed out dirt driveway. I don't see any damage, its not easy to get to see anything.

I can't take it for a ride now the Throttle is not functioning now

All the codes but for my limp throttle code are brake related it looks like a bit to take the switches out.

I'm fearing your all out of ideas ;-(
 
bb, you have a lot going on - code wise - some may be incidental to whatever you've done while trying to grasp the reason for the initial codes. That said, you're now getting codes that require BUDS hook up to be cleared(at minimum). Hate to say this but unless you know someone other than a dealer who has BUDS. imo, it is time to let a dealer sort your troubles out. That said, and if you do. Ask around for a good dealer, because that last thing you need at this point is a BAD ONE.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
The throttle body you might be able to resolve. You will have to remove air box. Get some throttle body cleaner. Spray both butterfly valves. Clean them with a small tooth brush. Spray again if they are still sticky/gummy. I remove front trunk and then the sub frame, then the air box. Good luck.

a
 
Well I appreciate all your help, I found a dealer that will take it in sooner. I hope that what they find will help someone else .
 
I can't help with your proplem, but who is your dealer and who did you get to look at it i love here in NH and i use Profile. I do have a trailer and a truck if you live near me and need help transporting it.
 
I have the same codes on my 2011 RT-S.

There are 2 switches behind your right foot peg. If one of these switches stuck when you parked your Spyder this could be what is causing your issue. If you push down on brake peddle slowly with head in the foot peg area you should hear a click and push a little more a second click. If you only hear one or no click your switches are sticking. Area needs to be cleaned. Bruce

I only hear one click when I push my bike down. I have taken the the blow gun to the switch "housing" and that didnt seem to make a difference. Still only one click. Any ideas would be great . Thanks
 
Hello I am also trying to fix my 2011 RT with the Codes C006c an C0044. What is the test for the brake switches . I only hear one click when I push the brake on. My brake lights go on and off as they should. I checked continuity on the 2 wire switch and it opens and closes as it should . Not sure how the 3 wire switch should ohm out ? Any information on testing that switch would help. Marty
 
Hello Billy, I am also trying to fix my 2011 RT with the Codes C006c an C0044. What is the test for the brake switches . I only hear one click when I push the brake on. My brake lights go on and off as they should. I checked continuity on the 2 wire switch and it opens and closes as it should . Not sure how the 3 wire switch should ohm out ? Any information on testing that switch would help. Marty

You have tagged onto a thread that has the same faults as yours but kinda went off the rails. Any discussion with the second click for the LPS (low pressure switch). Is completely wrong. Fault C0044 is for the interaction between the BLS (brake light switch) and the internal pressure sensors. So the brake light switch/circuit is bad or blown fuse. Or far worse is the sensors in VCM have failed and that expensive. So if the brake lights works it needs to plugged into BUDS and tested. As found by the OP of this thread. The VCM failed.

PS the second click only happens with a lot of force. Pushing the pedal with your hand is not going to do it.
 
Hello Billy, what is the test for that low pressure switch ?? I have 10.3 volts to it. When I ohm out the switch it shows closed with the brake pedal up and with it down ??? Could this be my problem? BTW. I pushed the pedal down hard with my foot .
 
Fault code C0044 has nothing to do with the low pressure switch. So there are no faults indicating there is a problem with the low pressure switch. So I would assume it is fine.

But since you asked. See attached screen grabs from the service manual.
 

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